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Camber Gauges

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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
Each of the alignment specs has a preferred setting (which isn't exactly a pass-fail number) and a fairly loose tolerance either side of that. Once you have the ability to adjust camber, you might just find a camber setting that suits you better than nailing Ford's preferred camber smack-dab on the nose.

Toe is -0.1°, ±0.2°, and is adjustable.
Caster is +7.1°, ±0.75° and is not adjustable (unless you step up to caster-camber plates).


Sure wish I could talk you out of using those bolts. Camber plates or Steeda HD strut mounts are better solutions to the same problem.

Norm
Yeah - kinda wish I had the plates. I just bought the car last week and quickly chose to do a catback and suspension upgrade . . . Learning on my first Mustang.

I do have the gt500 strut mounts - not sure if they offer similar results as the Steeda product.

Does the H&R ss springs affect caster? if so - will it be out of tolerance?
Old Jul 31, 2013 | 07:27 PM
  #12  
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Scratch the gt500 and Steeda comparison . . . did not realize the Steeda strut mount is nowhere near the same as the ford racing product.
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 05:37 AM
  #13  
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Also -

Can you suggest a spec order that compliments a more spirited ride. I do not track, autocross or street race; however, do enjoy an aggressive ride.

My car is primarily a hobby car but would like it to remain conservative enough for long rides.
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 05:45 AM
  #14  
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Caster will probably shift to a slightly higher positive value. But caster doesn't have any direct effect on tire wear, so running up more toward the high end of the range shouldn't matter.


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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 06:16 AM
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Without knowing how hard you drive through the corners or how frequently the harder driving times are, all I have to go on is the absence of autocross or track day driving. So I'll guess that camber somewhere between -1° and maybe -1.25° should work. The harder and more often the hard cornering, the closer to -1.25°. But be honest with yourself about this.


Norm
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
Without knowing how hard you drive through the corners or how frequently the harder driving times are, all I have to go on is the absence of autocross or track day driving. So I'll guess that camber somewhere between -1° and maybe -1.25° should work. The harder and more often the hard cornering, the closer to -1.25°. But be honest with yourself about this.


Norm
Okay - thanks.

Again - I am just looking for the ability to handle corners at speed a bit more proficiently. My intention for this car (at this point) is to be a really nice example of a modern Mustang with the capacity rip around town well.
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by yourmove
Okay - thanks.

Again - I am just looking for the ability to handle corners at speed a bit more proficiently. My intention for this car (at this point) is to be a really nice example of a modern Mustang with the capacity rip around town well.
That's exactly why I didn't suggest anything more aggressive.


Norm
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 11:28 AM
  #18  
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Yup there is no comparison between the GT500 mount and the Steeda unit. Ours is far superior in strength and control. Not to mention the GT500 one is non adjustable. As for as the camber bolts I always recommend against them. They are a cheap fix designed by the collision industry to tweak wrecked cars into alignment. They are smaller in diameter then the stock bolt to give it an offset cam part to allow for adjustability. Smaller in diameter means they are weaker and some require less torque. It is possible for them to move out of adjustment as well.
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SteedaMatt
Yup there is no comparison between the GT500 mount and the Steeda unit. Ours is far superior in strength and control. Not to mention the GT500 one is non adjustable. As for as the camber bolts I always recommend against them. They are a cheap fix designed by the collision industry to tweak wrecked cars into alignment. They are smaller in diameter then the stock bolt to give it an offset cam part to allow for adjustability. Smaller in diameter means they are weaker and some require less torque. It is possible for them to move out of adjustment as well.
This is understood.

I will, at some point, be getting parts with more integrity.
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
That's exactly why I didn't suggest anything more aggressive.


Norm
One more thing Norm . . .

First please excuse my ignorance of this technology but . . .
I had a shop refuse to align my car due to these modifications. I understand that a shop may not wish to put their reputation on a process that may not be fully successful . . . Fine - whatever.

More - then the guy states that based on the installed equipment that there would now be a whole new set of specs specific to the aftermarket parts - not the factory specs.

After we modify, through suspension parts, we are still trying to align to Ford specs and/or a desired spec . . . Correct?



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