I'm still learning all of this suspenson stuff and I think I know what each is, camber, caster, toe.

But I'm not real sure on the relationship between them, if any.

For example, if you were to reduce the camber from say -1.5 to -1.0, would that change the toe? If so, in which direction, narrower or wider? Any way to determine how much?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

:-)

Ken

 

Basically you mess with any setting (camber, caster, toe) it will generally knock the others out of spec. So you will need to remeasure to ensure all setting are still true or take it to a shop to get a new alignment

 

Yes.

It depends on where you make your adjustment. If you move the strut top (outward) or make your adjustments at the upper strut to knuckle bolts. the toe will shift inward. If you make adjustments at the lower strut to knuckle bolts, your toe will shift outward.

I suppose it could be calculated geometrically, but I've never bothered. How much will depend on where you're making your adjustment.


Norm

 

Mostly this is a theoretical question.

I've read where people would adjust their camber for different situations, track, street, etc, with camber plates. And I guess you can buy camber measuring tools and they're easy to use.

I was wondering what people did about toe setting, if anything.

I like to do things myself so when I lower my Mustang I was thinking of getting the camber tool. That way, after the initial alignment, I could make any adjustments myself.

Thanks for the replies.
ken

 

I used to swap camber settings on the 1979 Malibu that I autocrossed. From about -0.7° for street driving to about -2.7° for competition. I didn't bother with toe mostly because adjusting camber more negative in that car pushed toe from moderately toe-in to about an equally moderate amount out.

But how much toe is affected by shifting the static camber setting is chassis-specific. In some cars like the above-mentioned GM intermediate, toe varies almost 3/16" per degree of camber reset. Other cars (which I suspect includes the S197 Mustang) it's much less.


Norm

 

Changing camber moves the strut/ball joint
centerline towards the motor or away from it.
This moves the spindle towards or away from
the steering rack. This changes toe.

Two boards and two identicle tape measurers.
http://www.homemadetools.net/toe-setting-tool

Camber the right way helps with high speed cornering.
More turned in toe helps keep the steering wheel
and you going straight at high speeds.
There is static and dynamic toe.
Static is sitting in the driveway.
Dynamic is going down the road at speed.
For negative toe settings, static toe will
always be more than dynamic toe.
The wheels are 'pulled' apart by the friction
of the wheel on the pavement.

 

So as kenz had asked in his original post...going from a -1.5 to a -1.0 camber...would he need to get another alignment to correct the toe setting? Or will the toe remain within spec range? I ask cuz I did this to my camber via camber plates on my coilovers, but never got anything realigned since the car still drives straight.

 

Yes he would.
It might drive straight, but in a couple of thousand miles
the inner edges of the front tires will be worn.
Improper toe adjustment will cause feathered tire wear.
ANY change in caster settings REQUIRES that the
toe be reset or at the least checked against the
baseline readings taken BEFORE changing the camber.
It WILL be out of spec.

 

Thanks for the info and thanks to kenz for starting this thread...went to Firestone for a free alignment check...toe was slightly off, so I purchased their "lifetime alignment" for a few bucks more...(great idea and value for those who will be messing with their camber often)...they even said with the lifetime alignment, they'll set the camber for track and reset my camber for street anytime...no charge.

 

It depends. You change the camber on the knuckle you get a HUGE toe change. To it up top (on this car) with camber plates, etc. and it's very minor to no change, depending how far you move it.