greasing new BMR LCAs, help!
#1
greasing new BMR LCAs, help!
Just got these new solid BMR rear LCAs from AM:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-lca-poly-0512.html
How do I grease them? Saw a video of an LCA install where he just used his finger to lather up both ends of the bushing. Guy at autozone said that I'd need a grease gun to inject grease into the nipple on the LCA?
I bought the cheap grease gun and some Green Grease (Synthetic All-Purpose Waterproof). I think BMR suggests something with silicone, but I don't think this has silicone. I do have WD-40 with Silicone, but not sure that will do the trick here?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-lca-poly-0512.html
How do I grease them? Saw a video of an LCA install where he just used his finger to lather up both ends of the bushing. Guy at autozone said that I'd need a grease gun to inject grease into the nipple on the LCA?
I bought the cheap grease gun and some Green Grease (Synthetic All-Purpose Waterproof). I think BMR suggests something with silicone, but I don't think this has silicone. I do have WD-40 with Silicone, but not sure that will do the trick here?
#2
I just got a BMR panhard bar and had the same question. Kelly from BMR told me to use synthetic grease, give the nipple on each end of the panhard bar three good pumps full of the grease with a grease gun, then after 500 miles do the same thing, wiping off any excess. I did the panhard bar on my workbench and with three pumps, the grease was coming out of the bushings like four little snakes on each side. I wiped it off and its ready to go onto the car this weekend.
#3
I already installed the LCAs, was I supposed to use the grease gun before that?
The stupid grease gun I got came with an 10" straight rod. Had to go back and get something flexible to actually get it onto the nipple under my car.
The stupid grease gun I got came with an 10" straight rod. Had to go back and get something flexible to actually get it onto the nipple under my car.
#4
#5
Like mentioned above, before or after install doesn't really matter as you will need to do it from time to time again after the install. The grease gun I got from Harbor Freight and Tool had a solid end and a flexible end that were interchangable for like $15 I believe. It took the strength of Zeus for me to get the damn thing off either nipple after greasing it, I imagine if that is the case with all new grease guns (not just the crappy one I got from China), it would prbably be easier to grease them on the car. Harbor Freight also sells synthetic grease for like $5 per tube in the same aisle as the grease guns.
#6
It sounds like the flow paths for the grease are obstructed somehow. That lets the pressure build up, which fights you when you go to disconnect the hose from the zerk. They'll still do this on the car.
Norm
Norm
#8
I don't have any set schedule. I guess for 100% "normal street driving" it'd be two, maybe three times a year (that's only a couple thousand miles for me these days as I'm 66 and retired with at least two other cars nearly always available). Maybe I'd hit them an extra time or two if there'd been an unusual amount of snow or rain.
But what happens is that I usually give them a couple of pumps immediately before each HPDE track event (see avatar at left). Grease is cheap, and smooth suspension movement actually makes the car easier to drive when you're driving it that hard (not to mention that less bushing stiction = better ride quality all the time).
Norm
But what happens is that I usually give them a couple of pumps immediately before each HPDE track event (see avatar at left). Grease is cheap, and smooth suspension movement actually makes the car easier to drive when you're driving it that hard (not to mention that less bushing stiction = better ride quality all the time).
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 07-03-2014 at 07:04 AM.
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