GAZRNR

I am installing a Roush blower in April expecting @550 RWHP and @500 FTLB torque at the rear wheels. I have been building my 100% street car in stages, suspension, brakes, wheels/tires, then HP. The car is a 12 GT Auto and I have completed the following: Ford FFRP springs, Koni STR.T struts, GT500 mounts, Adj panhard bar, energy suspension sway bar bushings on stock bars, BMR LCA with the poly bushings, Ford M-2300-T brake kit, 245/45 19 on 9 inch front rim & 275/40 19 on 10 inch rim rear. I like the ride, handling & braking...a stiffer rear spring without lowering the rear any more would be my only change but that is about it for what I have done so far. I get no rear end hop but I have never tried to induce it so it could happen but just not the way I drive. This car lives in the twisty bumpy back roads of GA, the body roll is good, the rear is better but could feel more planted in some of the bumpy corners. I am trying to setup the car where it will work the best (on the street) and not beat the crap out of me.

Sitting on the ground I put the angle finder on the LCA and it angles up 2 degrees towards the rear end. The pinion angle is at -3 degrees, for an auto -1 to -2 is optimal.

Do I need to I add LCA relo brackets to gain a slight down angle on the arm?

Do I change the upper control arm & bracket to adj the pinion angle back to -1?

I plan on installing a Fayes 2 watts link later this summer when I free up some cash. Do I do both the adj upper & LCA brackets then add the watts link or just add the watts link and drive it for a while and see how the car is with the added HP?

Thanks for your input.

Rusty

UPRSharad

The LCA relo brackets are not absolutely necessary, but they will add some traction to your launches.

The UCA & Mount will help traction in a straight line AND in the corners. They'll also enable you to adjust the pinion angle.

RWHEELS

where in Georgia are you?

GAZRNR

Today I installed the BMR LCA Relo brackets. Used the center hole and now have the control arms with a 1 degree down angle towards the axel. Looks like a good call. I have the BMR adj upper control arm and mount to install in the near future.

GAZRNR

I'm not a racer or expert just an enthusiast working to improve my car in some areas that the bean counters at Ford cut back on. A lot of experts here & many thanks to all those that post. After the shocks/springs & alignment the car was where I wanted it for 2 years...until I drove a car with a blower and wanted that instant power.

So I installed the LCA's first not expecting much and was surprised at the difference in the first mile on my test ride. Drove it for a few weeks - slight increase in NVH (whirring) 45-60 off throttle (coasting). Then installed the Relo Brackets using center hole to correct the control arm angle. I was surprised that I could feel the change from this mod. No increase in NVH. Installed the Adj upper & mount last week. Setting the pinion angle was not hard. Did my test drive with back seat out and there was some NVH at all speeds but not brutal. Rechecked the torque on all fasteners, installed the rear seat & another ride - only slight increase in the whirring 45-60 off throttle as noted above - the back seat does absorb some noise.

I like to make my changes 1 at a time if I can so that if I get a noise or the car drives "funny" I know where to look first. For all those thinking about installing control arms & brackets I can say go for it. For me this was money well spent. I still plan on installing the Fayes2 watts link later this year. Need to put some more miles on these parts before I do the watts link.

audioAl

Your approach is smart, as to the watts link, BMR is releasing an over axle bolted model that is priced fairly decent $ 550.00 range. It should be out soon. Call Kelly for details.

gmoran1469

Over the axle? There's hardly enough space between it and the exhaust as is, why would they do that?

My Fays2 ends up just barely touching my exhaust when I am on the bumpstop.