How would these wheels look on a Saleen?
08-03-2009, 09:23 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 242
How would these wheels look on a Saleen?
They would be 20x8.5 front and 20x10 rear.. Only thing I'm worried about is the 38mm offset on the KMC's versus the 50mm offset of the Saleen's. Would a 1/2" make that much difference? I also would get sportline springs to lower the car a little more. Discuss...
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0128512238.JPG
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0128512238.JPG
08-04-2009, 07:18 AM
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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I just had a very involved thread on this very subject of off-sets on another guys ride and can be seen in the Tires & Wheels section.
I think this will be quite close to the fender and cannot recommend you go with a +38mm off-set on a 10" wheel for the back of your ride. It will fit, but likely rub unless you go with a relatively thin tire to clear the fender. Too bad, as I really like the wheels you linked
EDIT: I am pretty sure the '99~'04 Saleen wheels are +35mm and have seen them run on the S197. I don't know the tire sizes that were used, but VERY close to fender and don't look so good, IMO.
Jazzer
I think this will be quite close to the fender and cannot recommend you go with a +38mm off-set on a 10" wheel for the back of your ride. It will fit, but likely rub unless you go with a relatively thin tire to clear the fender. Too bad, as I really like the wheels you linked
EDIT: I am pretty sure the '99~'04 Saleen wheels are +35mm and have seen them run on the S197. I don't know the tire sizes that were used, but VERY close to fender and don't look so good, IMO.
Jazzer
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 08-04-2009 at 07:20 AM.
08-04-2009, 12:58 PM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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I would go with the 10.5" wheel with the 50mm offset...The rear Saleen's are 50mm and will tuck in nicely.
Just a warning about the springs because I have them too...a few suspension mods must be done along with these springs to allow the car to perform like it used to. You will also need this:
1) http://bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/AWK002.jpg
2) UTCA019 Adjustable Upper Control Arm w/poly bushing $179.95
The first package will help with traction and also reposition the angle of the lca's so that they will sit flush to the ground again. When you lower the car as much as the sportlines do, the rear of the car is going to squat more (obviously), throwing the angle of the lca's off (the front of the lca's will angle towards the ground without relo brackets). You need the lca's to stay flush in order to allow for minimum wheelhop and maximum traction.
The second thing I suggested is the adjustable UCA...again, when the car is lowered to that level, the pinion angle of the driveshaft is going to change. You need the adjustable UCA, which allows you to adjust the pinion angle back to where it needs to be. A good place to start is a -2* pinion angle....easy way to do this is you can measure the transmission output shaft at -2*, and adjust the pinion to 0*.
It is a lot to do, but you will notice a difference in the car!
Just a warning about the springs because I have them too...a few suspension mods must be done along with these springs to allow the car to perform like it used to. You will also need this:
1) http://bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/AWK002.jpg
2) UTCA019 Adjustable Upper Control Arm w/poly bushing $179.95
The first package will help with traction and also reposition the angle of the lca's so that they will sit flush to the ground again. When you lower the car as much as the sportlines do, the rear of the car is going to squat more (obviously), throwing the angle of the lca's off (the front of the lca's will angle towards the ground without relo brackets). You need the lca's to stay flush in order to allow for minimum wheelhop and maximum traction.
The second thing I suggested is the adjustable UCA...again, when the car is lowered to that level, the pinion angle of the driveshaft is going to change. You need the adjustable UCA, which allows you to adjust the pinion angle back to where it needs to be. A good place to start is a -2* pinion angle....easy way to do this is you can measure the transmission output shaft at -2*, and adjust the pinion to 0*.
It is a lot to do, but you will notice a difference in the car!
Last edited by 06Saleen3V; 08-04-2009 at 01:01 PM.
08-04-2009, 08:33 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 242
What do you guys think about these... I wish I could see them on the car... but I think they would looks sweet!! 20x9 front and 20x10.5 rear. I would put the Saleen center cap on them of course..
http://images.marketplaceadvisor.cha...02/s45c-bb.jpg
http://images.marketplaceadvisor.cha...02/s45c-bb.jpg
08-06-2009, 07:44 PM
#6
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Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 322
I'm Running a +31 20x9.5 in the front and a + 34 10.5 in the rear which is super agressive.
I have no rubbing issues with my sportlines.
I would go with the frist choice the KMC's +38 for the rear. I would try a + 30 up front.
I have no rubbing issues with my sportlines.
I would go with the frist choice the KMC's +38 for the rear. I would try a + 30 up front.
Last edited by Red6; 08-06-2009 at 08:32 PM.
08-07-2009, 07:18 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
I would go with the 10.5" wheel with the 50mm offset...The rear Saleen's are 50mm and will tuck in nicely.
Just a warning about the springs because I have them too...a few suspension mods must be done along with these springs to allow the car to perform like it used to. You will also need this:
1) http://bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/AWK002.jpg
2) UTCA019 Adjustable Upper Control Arm w/poly bushing $179.95
The first package will help with traction and also reposition the angle of the lca's so that they will sit flush to the ground again. When you lower the car as much as the sportlines do, the rear of the car is going to squat more (obviously), throwing the angle of the lca's off (the front of the lca's will angle towards the ground without relo brackets). You need the lca's to stay flush in order to allow for minimum wheelhop and maximum traction.
The second thing I suggested is the adjustable UCA...again, when the car is lowered to that level, the pinion angle of the driveshaft is going to change. You need the adjustable UCA, which allows you to adjust the pinion angle back to where it needs to be. A good place to start is a -2* pinion angle....easy way to do this is you can measure the transmission output shaft at -2*, and adjust the pinion to 0*.
It is a lot to do, but you will notice a difference in the car!
Just a warning about the springs because I have them too...a few suspension mods must be done along with these springs to allow the car to perform like it used to. You will also need this:
1) http://bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/AWK002.jpg
2) UTCA019 Adjustable Upper Control Arm w/poly bushing $179.95
The first package will help with traction and also reposition the angle of the lca's so that they will sit flush to the ground again. When you lower the car as much as the sportlines do, the rear of the car is going to squat more (obviously), throwing the angle of the lca's off (the front of the lca's will angle towards the ground without relo brackets). You need the lca's to stay flush in order to allow for minimum wheelhop and maximum traction.
The second thing I suggested is the adjustable UCA...again, when the car is lowered to that level, the pinion angle of the driveshaft is going to change. You need the adjustable UCA, which allows you to adjust the pinion angle back to where it needs to be. A good place to start is a -2* pinion angle....easy way to do this is you can measure the transmission output shaft at -2*, and adjust the pinion to 0*.
It is a lot to do, but you will notice a difference in the car!
Yucky EDIT: (the relo brackets are fine though and a good idea)
I don't like the poly/poly ended LCA's as they create additional bind in the suspension of the Stang rear axle. Now, the S197 is a much improved design of over that of the SN95, but would recommend the following arm for your ride...
Yummy
MUCH improved articulation and freedom of movement for your rear axle, but a bit more NVH than the "yucky" linky. For more info, pepe the Official Suspension Guide in my sig. The focus is on the SN95, but addresses the fundamentals of the Mustang suspension.
Jazzer
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 08-07-2009 at 07:32 AM.
08-07-2009, 01:26 PM
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location:
Posts: 6,414
I like everything you said here, Mickey..... except..me no likey your first linky...
Yucky EDIT: (the relo brackets are fine though and a good idea)
I don't like the poly/poly ended LCA's as they create additional bind in the suspension of the Stang rear axle. Now, the S197 is a much improved design of over that of the SN95, but would recommend the following arm for your ride...
Yummy
MUCH improved articulation and freedom of movement for your rear axle, but a bit more NVH than the "yucky" linky. For more info, pepe the Official Suspension Guide in my sig. The focus is on the SN95, but addresses the fundamentals of the Mustang suspension.
Jazzer
Yucky EDIT: (the relo brackets are fine though and a good idea)
I don't like the poly/poly ended LCA's as they create additional bind in the suspension of the Stang rear axle. Now, the S197 is a much improved design of over that of the SN95, but would recommend the following arm for your ride...
Yummy
MUCH improved articulation and freedom of movement for your rear axle, but a bit more NVH than the "yucky" linky. For more info, pepe the Official Suspension Guide in my sig. The focus is on the SN95, but addresses the fundamentals of the Mustang suspension.
Jazzer
I cant argue that the Griggs is a better suspension company, but I don't think the OP plans on turning his car into a road course machine....BMR does the job perfectly for the street and part-time track visitors...not to mention, their stuff is waaay cheaper than Griggs
08-07-2009, 06:01 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
Doesn't have to be Griggs, I just like the spherical end that ELIMINATES the bind introduded by the stock arms and actually increased by those BMR ones.
UPR makes a nice poly/spherical LCA that will function exactly as well as the Griggs, just not as strong or expensive. MM also make a poly/spherical arm that is non-adjustable, but has the spherical on the axle end. I prefer the UPR on an SN95 due to sway bar oporation, but not an issue on the S197.
Besides, OP is not exactly pushing stock horsey's and possibly go F/I one day. Seems to me there was someone else on here that swore he would never get blown. Who was that again...... seems to me.... hmmmm.....
Jazzer.... drawin' a blank
UPR makes a nice poly/spherical LCA that will function exactly as well as the Griggs, just not as strong or expensive. MM also make a poly/spherical arm that is non-adjustable, but has the spherical on the axle end. I prefer the UPR on an SN95 due to sway bar oporation, but not an issue on the S197.
Besides, OP is not exactly pushing stock horsey's and possibly go F/I one day. Seems to me there was someone else on here that swore he would never get blown. Who was that again...... seems to me.... hmmmm.....
Jazzer.... drawin' a blank