Racing an Automatic
i wouldnt get a shift kit unless u wanna kill your tranny. if u have a sct tuner. get a custom tune file from bamachips and just up your shift pressure by 15%. trust me it will make a big difference.
Make sure to get sticky tires. Don't expect to build the transmission and hook well on the stock rubber, you will more or less be leaving a better launch on the table, so to speak.
ORIGINAL: Dwisforme05
i wouldnt get a shift kit unless u wanna kill your tranny. if u have a sct tuner. get a custom tune file from bamachips and just up your shift pressure by 15%. trust me it will make a big difference.
i wouldnt get a shift kit unless u wanna kill your tranny. if u have a sct tuner. get a custom tune file from bamachips and just up your shift pressure by 15%. trust me it will make a big difference.
So how do I use this Tuner? I can not find any tutorials or anything!
SCT SF Tuner
I have posted a couple of times asking for guidance but no one has chimed in!
SCT SF Tuner
I have posted a couple of times asking for guidance but no one has chimed in!
Are you rinning without the tune now? With the mods in your sig you shouldn't be. I beleive the Steeda's come with a different factory tune. You could ask B AMAchips or B renspeed and they could help you. If your not savvy enough on a computer, you can return your car to stock (the tune), send you tuner into them through the mail and they will upload a new tune file then send it back. Slower for you but it works. My suggestion is to send it or download a new tune from these two as their tunes are supposed to be really good. They will ask you for mod list and build a tune for you.
Otherwise:
Plug in tuner and follow the prompts, it's that easy. It will read your VIN and lock on to your car.
It will scroll through the model, year, engine
Then it will ask what tune to use 87,89,91 or 93.
Axle ratio (choose one) find out what's in your car
Timing advance (leave it alone)
Air/fuel (leave it alone)
CMCV deletes (yes)
Shift firmness (choose it and go to the most firm and then from there go down)
Shift points (this adjusts when you car will shift on WOT)
REV limiter (raise or lower, your choice.)
Speed limiter (gets rid of governer)
My last auto had the same choices as this and it helped the shifting.
Otherwise:
Plug in tuner and follow the prompts, it's that easy. It will read your VIN and lock on to your car.
It will scroll through the model, year, engine
Then it will ask what tune to use 87,89,91 or 93.
Axle ratio (choose one) find out what's in your car
Timing advance (leave it alone)
Air/fuel (leave it alone)
CMCV deletes (yes)
Shift firmness (choose it and go to the most firm and then from there go down)
Shift points (this adjusts when you car will shift on WOT)
REV limiter (raise or lower, your choice.)
Speed limiter (gets rid of governer)
My last auto had the same choices as this and it helped the shifting.
Just thought I would chime in since I have an auto too. A Stall converter is good for one thing. Off the line. From a roll, your car will suck. All you need is a custom tune(changing shift points) Radial's, and gears. A Stall is good, but will hurt the car if you drive it daily.
Typically what I do, is power brake, to about 3K, in that case my tires are spinning, and I release the brake. My car obviously would hit me a lot harder(S/C'ed) and fly. Although, traction is a huge issue, if you know how to drive, you can feather the gas, and regain traction and maintain full throttle. I know at this instance, without me getting any gears, tires, or a stall converter, I can run low-mid 12's with my Auto.
One thing I will say, is when I supercharger my car, I have never seen anyone's RPM fly up so fast. Doodad can vouch.
Short story; Just hit a toll booth, as I started to gradually accelarate, since my shift point tune now acts as manual, I can keep accelarating to my max RPM with my trans shift early. So, once I hit 3K, I floored it with Doodad in the car, and within a matter of no more then 3 seconds, my car was in 3 gear. So, it is key to custom tune your car. Shifting faster will make a great deal. Stock for Stock, Auto VS. Manual, if you can launch your car, Auto will beat manual. An ECU shifts faster then any human being, remember that.
Good luck, I hope this info helps...
Typically what I do, is power brake, to about 3K, in that case my tires are spinning, and I release the brake. My car obviously would hit me a lot harder(S/C'ed) and fly. Although, traction is a huge issue, if you know how to drive, you can feather the gas, and regain traction and maintain full throttle. I know at this instance, without me getting any gears, tires, or a stall converter, I can run low-mid 12's with my Auto.
One thing I will say, is when I supercharger my car, I have never seen anyone's RPM fly up so fast. Doodad can vouch.
Short story; Just hit a toll booth, as I started to gradually accelarate, since my shift point tune now acts as manual, I can keep accelarating to my max RPM with my trans shift early. So, once I hit 3K, I floored it with Doodad in the car, and within a matter of no more then 3 seconds, my car was in 3 gear. So, it is key to custom tune your car. Shifting faster will make a great deal. Stock for Stock, Auto VS. Manual, if you can launch your car, Auto will beat manual. An ECU shifts faster then any human being, remember that.
Good luck, I hope this info helps...


