Racing an Automatic
ORIGINAL: EaZy DuZ iT
for some reason espeically with my car, i feel lilke auto is real slow off roll
for some reason espeically with my car, i feel lilke auto is real slow off roll
Shouldn't your X-CAL II be able to fix that to some extent?
Check out www.bc-automotive.com and ask for Darrin if u decide to call him. He is very knowledgeable in the ford trans and converter set up and is trusted in the mustang racing community. Id say get 4:10's, trans cooler, modified valvebody, converter, tune and DR's as these combined mods will knock off .5-1.0 sec in the 1/4 mile and extend the tranny life. If u plan to stay n/a, DO NOT get less than a 3500 stall converter, but with boost u have to set it up accordingly. Typically, twinscrews go with 2600-3k stalls and centr/turbos go with 4k, but too much stall for a DD is not good. Some say do the converter last as u can tie in all the mods u have done, but u can have it built with future mods in mind or just get it restalled after the mods are done.
ORIGINAL: 07GrabberMustangGT
Just thought I would chime in since I have an auto too. A Stall converter is good for one thing. Off the line. From a roll, your car will suck. All you need is a custom tune(changing shift points) Radial's, and gears. A Stall is good, but will hurt the car if you drive it daily.
Typically what I do, is power brake, to about 3K, in that case my tires are spinning, and I release the brake. My car obviously would hit me a lot harder(S/C'ed) and fly. Although, traction is a huge issue, if you know how to drive, you can feather the gas, and regain traction and maintain full throttle. I know at this instance, without me getting any gears, tires, or a stall converter, I can run low-mid 12's with my Auto.
One thing I will say, is when I supercharger my car, I have never seen anyone's RPM fly up so fast. Doodad can vouch.
Short story; Just hit a toll booth, as I started to gradually accelarate, since my shift point tune now acts as manual, I can keep accelarating to my max RPM with my trans shift early. So, once I hit 3K, I floored it with Doodad in the car, and within a matter of no more then 3 seconds, my car was in 3 gear. So, it is key to custom tune your car. Shifting faster will make a great deal. Stock for Stock, Auto VS. Manual, if you can launch your car, Auto will beat manual. An ECU shifts faster then any human being, remember that.
Good luck, I hope this info helps...
Just thought I would chime in since I have an auto too. A Stall converter is good for one thing. Off the line. From a roll, your car will suck. All you need is a custom tune(changing shift points) Radial's, and gears. A Stall is good, but will hurt the car if you drive it daily.
Typically what I do, is power brake, to about 3K, in that case my tires are spinning, and I release the brake. My car obviously would hit me a lot harder(S/C'ed) and fly. Although, traction is a huge issue, if you know how to drive, you can feather the gas, and regain traction and maintain full throttle. I know at this instance, without me getting any gears, tires, or a stall converter, I can run low-mid 12's with my Auto.
One thing I will say, is when I supercharger my car, I have never seen anyone's RPM fly up so fast. Doodad can vouch.
Short story; Just hit a toll booth, as I started to gradually accelarate, since my shift point tune now acts as manual, I can keep accelarating to my max RPM with my trans shift early. So, once I hit 3K, I floored it with Doodad in the car, and within a matter of no more then 3 seconds, my car was in 3 gear. So, it is key to custom tune your car. Shifting faster will make a great deal. Stock for Stock, Auto VS. Manual, if you can launch your car, Auto will beat manual. An ECU shifts faster then any human being, remember that.
Good luck, I hope this info helps...
regardless of what other people say
- 4.10's
- full SCT dyno tune (shift points)
- DR's
those three things will make any automatic mustang faster than their 5 speed counterpart.... a stall, tranny cooler etc, etc is just icing on the cake you built
and an auto with those mods into it will have a big advantage over a manual transmission at the drag races.... #1 it will launchharder with better 60's #2 It will be consistant
these 2 things are a package people strive for at the strip.
- 4.10's
- full SCT dyno tune (shift points)
- DR's
those three things will make any automatic mustang faster than their 5 speed counterpart.... a stall, tranny cooler etc, etc is just icing on the cake you built
and an auto with those mods into it will have a big advantage over a manual transmission at the drag races.... #1 it will launchharder with better 60's #2 It will be consistant
these 2 things are a package people strive for at the strip.
ORIGINAL: TommyV8
That is exactly what you do. Don't overthink it.
ORIGINAL: 08Steeda
I would assume you don't just mash the peddle to the floor and hold on!
I would assume you don't just mash the peddle to the floor and hold on!
08Steeda, please nix the shift kit. The computer control the auto trans when its time to shift and how hard. A tuner kit will allow you to modify the trans settings.
ORIGINAL: EaZy DuZ iT
for some reason espeically with my car, i feel lilke auto is real slow off roll
for some reason espeically with my car, i feel lilke auto is real slow off roll
ORIGINAL: kazman
TommyV8, mash the gas only if your actually bracket racing. In bracket racing you need to do everything exactly the same every time. Feathering the gas will lead to your best 60' but it's impossible to feather the gas the same every time. An example is my car. I launch at 1500rmp and smash the gas on the 3rd amber. Thisgives me a 2.2x 60' but puts me .020 on the tree.In6 runs my 60' are all same (x.xx) for the day. I know I can feather the gas and modify the launch to get me sub 2.0's but it will kill me on the tree and lead to different ET's on the big end. Bracket racing is consistancy, best ET is bragging rights. This is why I ask 08Steeda what does he mean by "racing", time shots or competetion. Makes a difference on how you set up and launch the car.
ORIGINAL: TommyV8
That is exactly what you do. Don't overthink it.
ORIGINAL: 08Steeda
I would assume you don't just mash the peddle to the floor and hold on!
I would assume you don't just mash the peddle to the floor and hold on!
ORIGINAL: TommyV8
So pressing on the gas pedal lightly will push it through the 60 foot faster than punching it?[&:] I really don't see how.
ORIGINAL: kazman
TommyV8, mash the gas only if your actually bracket racing. In bracket racing you need to do everything exactly the same every time. Feathering the gas will lead to your best 60' but it's impossible to feather the gas the same every time. An example is my car. I launch at 1500rmp and smash the gas on the 3rd amber. Thisgives me a 2.2x 60' but puts me .020 on the tree.In6 runs my 60' are all same (x.xx) for the day. I know I can feather the gas and modify the launch to get me sub 2.0's but it will kill me on the tree and lead to different ET's on the big end. Bracket racing is consistancy, best ET is bragging rights. This is why I ask 08Steeda what does he mean by "racing", time shots or competetion. Makes a difference on how you set up and launch the car.
ORIGINAL: TommyV8
That is exactly what you do. Don't overthink it.
ORIGINAL: 08Steeda
I would assume you don't just mash the peddle to the floor and hold on!
I would assume you don't just mash the peddle to the floor and hold on!
i can punch it, but i need to do it a certain way for best results
So pressing on the gas pedal lightly will push it through the 60 foot faster than punching it?[&:] I really don't see how.
Tommy, as a general rule most street cars with street supension on drag radials will spin the tires. 1/4 spin, 1/2 spin, chirp, etc. Have a friend vidio you lanch the replay it back frame by frame. You will be amazed. I'm not saying lighly push the gas but to lean down on the gas as the car moves forward. An even flowing motion. Bracket racing BAM on the gas. Going for the best 60' BAAAAM on the gas. Also leaving from an idle may flash the converter and lead to better time too. Again it's which goal your going after, setting the car up for the tree or trying for the fastest times. I have found that the track is preped way better (sticker) for the bracket racing events than test and tune or "street" night sessons. My firebird is a modified bracket car which hooks on grass. I can footbrake at 1800rmp or come out at 4kon the transbrake and the car will dead hook.The car launches much harder on the transbrake and my60' drops. Feathering the gas on that carslows me down.
Tommy, as a general rule most street cars with street supension on drag radials will spin the tires. 1/4 spin, 1/2 spin, chirp, etc. Have a friend vidio you lanch the replay it back frame by frame. You will be amazed. I'm not saying lighly push the gas but to lean down on the gas as the car moves forward. An even flowing motion. Bracket racing BAM on the gas. Going for the best 60' BAAAAM on the gas. Also leaving from an idle may flash the converter and lead to better time too. Again it's which goal your going after, setting the car up for the tree or trying for the fastest times. I have found that the track is preped way better (sticker) for the bracket racing events than test and tune or "street" night sessons. My firebird is a modified bracket car which hooks on grass. I can footbrake at 1800rmp or come out at 4kon the transbrake and the car will dead hook.The car launches much harder on the transbrake and my60' drops. Feathering the gas on that carslows me down.


