what does it REALLY take...
Retired Mod
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,658
From: Long Island, NY
RE: what does it REALLY take...
your suspension will play a big part in getting traction on the street as would a sticky tire.
however your not taking a s/c car even to 80-100 if its got a decent driver IMHO
however your not taking a s/c car even to 80-100 if its got a decent driver IMHO
5th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,584
From: CT
RE: what does it REALLY take...
ORIGINAL: WRXtranceformed
I used to be, until I bought a heavy, FWD, high-powered Jap sedan. 
ORIGINAL: danGT06
you must be best friends with it.. ^^
you must be best friends with it.. ^^
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhEJoQoi8Xo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGE_upawGSA
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
From:
RE: what does it REALLY take...
ORIGINAL: stealth_GT
actually I tend to lol.
We will either head out to a common street where it's relatively empty and safe (lol 'safe')to race or we will find another place.I don't see the point in roll racing as of now because being only CAI/tune,my ONE and ONLY way to win would be from a DIG.The auto is a HOG ..no, a downright PIG from a roll at this point..the gearing sucks,power doesn't kick in all that quick even with a tune,and it seems to fall flat around 100 or so I didn't think the auto would have such an advantage from a DIG but once I got power braking down to the T it launches like a bat outta hell!~ the only thing that sucks is I will blow the doors off of some cars drag racing but will loose horribly from a roll.
I think all it really takes is to the quickest in the 1/8 mile being that most races end before that anyways on the street,actually- the way I see it,the faster and faster your car gets the quicker the races are and they end to end quicker as well lol.
ORIGINAL: IWHINE
depends really, yournot always going to go from a stop unless you race at the track only.
depends really, yournot always going to go from a stop unless you race at the track only.
actually I tend to lol.
We will either head out to a common street where it's relatively empty and safe (lol 'safe')to race or we will find another place.I don't see the point in roll racing as of now because being only CAI/tune,my ONE and ONLY way to win would be from a DIG.The auto is a HOG ..no, a downright PIG from a roll at this point..the gearing sucks,power doesn't kick in all that quick even with a tune,and it seems to fall flat around 100 or so I didn't think the auto would have such an advantage from a DIG but once I got power braking down to the T it launches like a bat outta hell!~ the only thing that sucks is I will blow the doors off of some cars drag racing but will loose horribly from a roll.
I think all it really takes is to the quickest in the 1/8 mile being that most races end before that anyways on the street,actually- the way I see it,the faster and faster your car gets the quicker the races are and they end to end quicker as well lol.
Well in that case you going to need a little of both, as already said a sticky tire couldn't hurt, but you need to have some power if you want to hold the faster guys off for that little bit of time.
Thread Starter
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,716
From: North Pole
RE: what does it REALLY take...
ORIGINAL: Trmachuno
I'd say get suspension, good tires, and a high stall convertor. Stall convertor + sticky tires=blowing your opponent away off the line, which is where it counts the most
I'd say get suspension, good tires, and a high stall convertor. Stall convertor + sticky tires=blowing your opponent away off the line, which is where it counts the most
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,284
From: Miami, FL
RE: what does it REALLY take...
I would say that the most important factors are:
1. Traction - proper tire and suspension for your given setup;
2. Driver ability - if you spin on the launch, miss gears and shift slowly you aren't going to be doing very well;
3. Power - you aren't going to beat a much faster car if you don't have the power to propel yourself.
1. Traction - proper tire and suspension for your given setup;
2. Driver ability - if you spin on the launch, miss gears and shift slowly you aren't going to be doing very well;
3. Power - you aren't going to beat a much faster car if you don't have the power to propel yourself.
Thread Starter
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,716
From: North Pole
RE: what does it REALLY take...
I am pretty sure that a full bolt on GT (including cams) should be able to take on 85% of the tuner cars out there and a few muscle cars as well..I am kinda interested in going the NA route just to see how well it does on the street in terms of winning races.The reason being is that it'll be that much more competitive..say I do get the Paxton H.0.2200 kit,suspension mods and a high stall TC..and then what? the only cars worth racing would be ones in the same performance level (with 480-490+whp) leaving out nearly 85% of of the people that actually race lol.
It would be cool to be king of the hill..but whats the fun in that when there is no one to push off?
It would be cool to be king of the hill..but whats the fun in that when there is no one to push off?
Retired Mod
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,658
From: Long Island, NY
RE: what does it REALLY take...
IMHO - The blown route is a much faster and less expensive way to big power. to get near 400 RWHP N/A you'll need heads/cam/headers plus stuff I cant think of now.... good heads and cam gonna cost your near $2600-2700 iirc, headers 700-1000, so your getting close to a S/C there.
IMO bolt up a S/C kit and your 425+ at the tire... done!
IMO bolt up a S/C kit and your 425+ at the tire... done!