IRS compatible slick
Okay, so yeah, now that I have the IRS and a t-56, things are a wittle bit different.
Right now I run Hoosier A6's and R6's (basically an R compound tire for open track use), but the Southern Arizona Mustang Club is having their Quarter mile for a cure thing Nov 1'st.
Through the T-56, I made 582rwhp on a mustang dyno, and that is at 15.7PSI. I'm swapping pulleys as of tomorrow (I still have about 10,000RPM left in the blower with the pulley system I'm using), and so I should be around 18-19PSI boost, and most likely far more than 600rwhp.
I have the Maximum Motorsports Grip box for 01 Cobra's, with the bracing, and I have upgraded/higher spline halfshafts, but it's still not completely braced.
The engine and transmission I'm not worried about breaking, but the rear I am.
anyway, since they were having a drag day, and I've had cancer and all that, so I want to support everything cancer that I can, I want to know what kind of a slick/drag radial can I put on there without fear of breaking anything?
Right now I run Hoosier A6's and R6's (basically an R compound tire for open track use), but the Southern Arizona Mustang Club is having their Quarter mile for a cure thing Nov 1'st.
Through the T-56, I made 582rwhp on a mustang dyno, and that is at 15.7PSI. I'm swapping pulleys as of tomorrow (I still have about 10,000RPM left in the blower with the pulley system I'm using), and so I should be around 18-19PSI boost, and most likely far more than 600rwhp.
I have the Maximum Motorsports Grip box for 01 Cobra's, with the bracing, and I have upgraded/higher spline halfshafts, but it's still not completely braced.
The engine and transmission I'm not worried about breaking, but the rear I am.
anyway, since they were having a drag day, and I've had cancer and all that, so I want to support everything cancer that I can, I want to know what kind of a slick/drag radial can I put on there without fear of breaking anything?
IMO - its less about the tire and more about how you launch the car that is going to effect your rear. if you slip out the clutch as opposed to dropping it you should be ok.
my .02
good luck at the track! and stay healthy!
my .02
good luck at the track! and stay healthy!
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 504
From: Where gunshots are more common than birds chirping
Using a bias-ply tire will help absorb some of the shock of the initial launch if you plan on leaving the line pretty hard. In an auto you can preload the drivetrain and components will last longer so you can get away with a stiffer radial construction, but if you're serious about getting some good times out there I would look to borrow some MT ET Streets and you can also worry less about putting so much shock on your halfshafts and u-joints. You didn't mention gearing, but I think at your power level it would be safe to say you could use a 28x11.5 or 28x13.50.
Last edited by 35thAnni99GT; Oct 2, 2008 at 02:40 PM.
Using a bias-ply tire will help absorb some of the shock of the initial launch if you plan on leaving the line pretty hard. In an auto you can preload the drivetrain and components will last longer so you can get away with a stiffer radial construction, but if you're serious about getting some good times out there I would look to borrow some MT ET Streets and you can also worry less about putting so much shock on your halfshafts and u-joints. You didn't mention gearing, but I think at your power level it would be safe to say you could use a 28x11.5 or 28x13.50.
I'm not sure, but I don't think I can run a 15" wheel because of my brakes? since they are 13" on the rear, I think I'm limited to 17's, so I guess that would mean I'm also limited to running radials instead of a true bias ply slick?
I'm not actually running the auto anymore, and I don't think I'm going to leave the line that hard.
I'm guessing it would be a good idea to go with a full tank of gas? it's kind of like a test n' tune night, and I don't mind hot lapping the car, so I can get many laps in, especially since I have the oil cooler, and everything else really.
Thanks for the info on how to stay away from wheel hop.
What all drag radials does everyone prefer? The ET streets are pretty expensive, and I'd have to order them now, I've heard nitto's are semi crappy, and that BFG KD's aren't good either, I forgot how they phrased what was happening.
I've heard a couple S197 owners who love to run the off brand ones, that you can order on line.
Are the MT ET streets really good enough to where I should just order them and not worry about them?
Thanks for the info on how to stay away from wheel hop.
What all drag radials does everyone prefer? The ET streets are pretty expensive, and I'd have to order them now, I've heard nitto's are semi crappy, and that BFG KD's aren't good either, I forgot how they phrased what was happening.
I've heard a couple S197 owners who love to run the off brand ones, that you can order on line.
Are the MT ET streets really good enough to where I should just order them and not worry about them?
Do not get a full tank of gas usually you want a 1/4 tank at most. Just start off at a base of launching then slowly go up in rpm. If you feel ANY wheelhop let off! And get back into it. But if you do not have a billetflow IRS brace I would def. recommend one with running E/T streets. Thats where the most stress will happen. Its all trial and error. I mean I have seen 500rwhp launching on slicks with just the 03/04 cobra halfshafts and not breaking anything. Just as soon as you feel any sort of wheel hop let off. One thing to take a look at if you wanna build up the IRS more is the IRS RED PILL.


