SS_Eater88

ok is there a certain type bilsteins since the car is going to be lower or just stock replacements and maybe who to go with with the dampers? I'm not trying to spend alot of money but since I'm planning on replacing parts I wouldn't mind doing it with better parts.

SS_Eater88

I also noticed where in your discussions that you've mentioned cc plates and I was wondering if that would be a need to

Jazzer The Cat

CC plates are good for a few reasons...

The first being the ability to adjust both caster and camber for improved hold on the road. Beyond this, you may consider going CO's and requires the use of them*. Once the Mustang is lowered, you will gain negative camber and may want to dial it back out for improved life of front tires. The biggie is adding some caster and particularly if you run wider than OEM tires.

As for dampers, they are not my strong suit, but they need to be matched with the springs, for a proper ride and nice handling. Just remember to keep your ULTIMATE goal in mind, so that you don't go installing new parts that don't meet this end. You will only need to replace them later and is expensive to do so.

Jazzer


*not if you are a hardcore kitty

SS_Eater88

ok the * was good lol well with what I've been looking up I've decided to go with koni shocks and struts, mm cc plates, mm strut tower brace, mm full length subframe connectors, mm LCA's non-adjustable and h&r springs and think I'd prolly be pretty set or not? I also noticed a problem when I measured to see for the springs. The left side of the car is lower than the right side. The front: right=2 3/4 left=2 The rear: right=4 left=3 1/8. I'm not sure what it may be. I checked the tires and they match so its not that and I wouldn't think that I would only have a problem with the shocks or springs on only one side so I'm kinda puzzled

Jazzer The Cat

Save the $$$ of a STB and invest it into something that will be of better help. If you had a pre-SN95, it would do you some good, but don't bother. Elevation differences in the car are most likely sagging spring(s), but do some close inspection and confirm that it is not due to missing ISO's or possibly damaged/bent parts.

Your list looks fine for an improved cornering ride, just be sure to consider your ULTIMATE goals too! If you are looking for a serious increase in cornering prowess, you will need to address the rear suspension and requires different spring rates. If you should decide to go this route later, you would be best served to go with a TA and PHB or WL. This would make the springs you get now, effectively "lighter" due to geometry changes.

Jazzer

PS. The * is because I don't run CC plates

SS_Eater88

thanks for the advice. Definitely not what I thought I would have to spend but I definitely think it's going to be worth it. When I get everything done I'll be sure to let you know how it turned out

gggjrsatx

Jazzer , Your awesome ,, I just go a new 2013 6 spd V6 box stock ,, Now im ticked off that the car handles worse than my 09 Crysler Van ( which is a cab ) Feels ok under 60 ,, anyway after reading this post im thinking to get a full length subframe connector to help this car handle better. Of course what you recommend is the way I will go since "U the man"

Jazzer The Cat

Thanks, but FLSFC's wont do you any good in your car, as the frame is already stronger than mine right from the factory floor

I will give you two pieces of advice here.... The first is what you have already read on the beginning of this thread.... what are your ULTIMATE goals? The second part is to send you over to the S197 Performance Handling section. The pepes over there are VASTLY more knowledgeable with your model than I. I recommend you pay particular attention to Norm Peterson and Sam Strano.

Just remember to keep in mind that the modification of ones suspension, will nearly always bring additional NVH. Also keep in mind you have a warranty on your car and some things may compromise it, so be careful with your decisions.

Jazzer

Fryguy22

I am thinking about getting the upr chrome moly lower control arms but see that they require the removal of the rear sway bar. Any suggestions on a good set for a daily driver with a preference towards autocross use that won't require removal of the sway bar?

Jazzer The Cat

UPR chrome moly UCA with sway-bar mounts



You must have been looking at these:




Jazzer