Candyman_GT

This message is mostly aimed at Jazzer but anyone who can suggest an affordable step up suspension plan will be greatly appreciated. I just got done reading Jazzer's USG and I wanna make my car corner like a mad man. Problem is, money burns holes in my pockets so saving $4k to drop on a suspension all at once probably isn't going to happen. I have 99 GT I wanna do a PHB plus torque arm, drop the car 2", coil over conversion, full length SFCs, tubed A arms, CCs, basically the works... My question is what parts do I need to buy all at the same time/in what order to not have the car get wacky on me and still build the thing up over time? My budget will be about 400 bucks a month I can through at this. Thanks for all suggestions.

Jazzer The Cat

If anyone can do this, the Candyman can ..... wut?

Appears you have already looked into MM and seen their Grip Boxes. You are at the upper level of cornering specific parts and certainly Griggs Racing is another. What I recommend you do, is look to a Max Grip Box and build it a bit at a time. You cannot go "one piece" at a time for the entire kit, but will be the most budget friendly.


I would recommend to start here and in this order:
1. Tires ~ You are in Cali, so you can run some pretty high-performance tires year round
2. Brakes ~ You want to go fast, you need to stop fast with reliable brakes (see Brakes upgrade in sig) #2 is only as good as #1, so you need proper tires FIRST!
3. Seats ~ The OEM seats in your car SUCK ***** for lateral support on corners. IMO, you cannot safely take fast corners with them!
4. FLSFC's ~ You are pre-S197, so this is your first place to start with suspension
5. LCA's ~ Important to have a spherical bearing on at least one end and MM sells nothing else
6. PHB, TA, rear shocks and CO springs ~ (per your "want list" for mad-man cornering) Requries FSLFC's and will require a spring change, so time to jump to CO's.

#6 is an expensive step, but most efficient way to spend your $$$. You will need to save 4~5 months, per your stated budget, but you have a couple options. You can install a PHB and drive it for a while. Next, go rear shocks with CO springs and drive it for a while, but will be stiffer ride than your ULTIMATE goal and until you install the TA.

How's your budget look now

Jazzer

Candyman_GT

My cousin who is a GM at Big Brand Tire tells me my tires are pretty decent. So thankfully that 400 or so is saved. Definently will look into breaks. Seats... oye those are damned expensive and mine are the leather power seats... Now I'm not a particular fan of the power seats themselves but I do like the leather and that they match the car... I'll have to do some lookin b4 plunkin down on those... I was also thinkin FLSFCs but maybe b4 the seats. The way the roads are around here I think this will actually help my ride quality as much as gimme better cornering... Then yea I'll probably do seats. Is there any extra annoyance associated with changing rear suspension components one at a time vs. all at once? Like am I gonna have do something like move the gas tank more than once stuff like that? Thx for the help Jazzer.

Oh and I just did up my budget for about the next 6-7 months and I can toss 760 a month at car mods.

Candyman_GT

Hey Jazzer, where would you recommend finding those 13" Cobra rotors from? The brake guide says the basic swap of fluid, break lines, cobra rotors, and better pads can be done for 350, but I'm lookin at more like 8-900 from what I can find here on the net. That's with 13" rotors, ss lines, Castrol SRF, and Hawks HPS pads... So how do I trim the fat? Also where can I find a decent coil over kit that will drop me 2 inchs? I don't need fully adjustable chances are I'm never changing them once they are dialed in, so if that can save me a few bucks cool.

What's an FSLFC?

Yet another question, I'm lookin at LCAs and they are talking about with perch w/o perch and with swaybar w/o swaybar, which of these do I need?

Jazzer The Cat

The advantage of doing things all at once, is just one of convenience and cost. Purchasing an entire kit will be less expensive than one part at at time.


You don't need rotors, as your OEM ones are fine. The $350 is for pads on all four corners, SS lines at all four corners and fluid (that cost is a pretty close estimate based on the lines at Roush, but are not always available from them)

Jazzer

UPRSharad

^^Agreed, and I can help with 4 & 5.

Candyman_GT

Ok so I think I've decided to go ahead and save up and get the Hard Top Road and Track Box from MM and it says its customizable so I think I'm gonna sub Bilstein coil-overs for the springs, shocks, struts, and swap in tube "A" arms the month after I buy the kit or wait a lil longer for the kit. Question about K members, do you have to pull the engine to swap those or can it be done without doing so? If not I think I'll pass and just brace it and add a shock tower brace.

Jazzer The Cat

Don't bother with a STB, they are all but useless on the SN95 chassis. You don't have to pull the engine to do a new "K", but you just need to support it. If you're considering doing "A" arms and a new "K" at some point, just wait and do both at the same time. Either will be an improvement over OEM, but if you want to really focus on carving corners, a tube "A" that will fit your OEM "K", may not work in an aftermarket one. This is due to some changes in geometry that are an improvement for a lowered ride. I don't know if the UPR "K" incorporates such changes in geometry, as the website does not say. It is not critical to have such changes, but road-racing specific ones typically do.

Jazzer