Which springs?
Thread Starter
Resident Ginger
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,624
From: Cali
Which springs?
So I am looking to lower my car alittle but still keep the ride as smooth as possible (yes, I know 1. its a Mustang and 2. lowering doesnt improve ride quality). I was looking at either "B", "C", or UPR springs. I just ordered MM CC plates, and new spring isolaters from AM.
Thanks in advance Jazzer (the resident suspension guru), and those others who respond.
Matthew
Thanks in advance Jazzer (the resident suspension guru), and those others who respond.
Matthew
Retired Moderator
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,235
From: SF Bay Area
I recommend you do two things, when it comes to lowering your car...
1. pick out a lowering kit, that has properly matches spings/dampers, as the easiest way to get it right
2. Don't drop more than 1.5", to avoid geometry issues presented with a farther drop in ride height.
You already have FLSFC's and that would otherwise be #1 on my list of pre-S197 cars. A rear sway bar is generally beneficial, but side note here.... what was the reason you purchased it and specifically which bar is it? Typically, one goes a bit heavier to address some of the understeer designed into the Mustang. This is almost always a good thing, but may not be ideal with a new spring/damper set-up.
What say you?
Jazzer
1. pick out a lowering kit, that has properly matches spings/dampers, as the easiest way to get it right
2. Don't drop more than 1.5", to avoid geometry issues presented with a farther drop in ride height.
You already have FLSFC's and that would otherwise be #1 on my list of pre-S197 cars. A rear sway bar is generally beneficial, but side note here.... what was the reason you purchased it and specifically which bar is it? Typically, one goes a bit heavier to address some of the understeer designed into the Mustang. This is almost always a good thing, but may not be ideal with a new spring/damper set-up.
What say you?
Jazzer
Thread Starter
Resident Ginger
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,624
From: Cali
I recommend you do two things, when it comes to lowering your car...
1. pick out a lowering kit, that has properly matches spings/dampers, as the easiest way to get it right
2. Don't drop more than 1.5", to avoid geometry issues presented with a farther drop in ride height.
You already have FLSFC's and that would otherwise be #1 on my list of pre-S197 cars. A rear sway bar is generally beneficial, but side note here.... what was the reason you purchased it and specifically which bar is it? Typically, one goes a bit heavier to address some of the understeer designed into the Mustang. This is almost always a good thing, but may not be ideal with a new spring/damper set-up.
What say you?
Jazzer
1. pick out a lowering kit, that has properly matches spings/dampers, as the easiest way to get it right
2. Don't drop more than 1.5", to avoid geometry issues presented with a farther drop in ride height.
You already have FLSFC's and that would otherwise be #1 on my list of pre-S197 cars. A rear sway bar is generally beneficial, but side note here.... what was the reason you purchased it and specifically which bar is it? Typically, one goes a bit heavier to address some of the understeer designed into the Mustang. This is almost always a good thing, but may not be ideal with a new spring/damper set-up.
What say you?
Jazzer
Now good Sir, what say you?
Matthew
Retired Moderator
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,235
From: SF Bay Area
He he
The FLSFC's will show their worth both in harder cornering and over time, by reducing squeaks and rattles.
The sway bar is a nice upgrade for the V6, as Ford did not install one on them.
that just leaves a lowering kit and your thoughts on a budget and that pesky ULTIMATE goal thing again
The FLSFC's will show their worth both in harder cornering and over time, by reducing squeaks and rattles.
The sway bar is a nice upgrade for the V6, as Ford did not install one on them.
that just leaves a lowering kit and your thoughts on a budget and that pesky ULTIMATE goal thing again
Thread Starter
Resident Ginger
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,624
From: Cali
Oh you and your "ultimate goals" question haha. Again the car is a DD with very little racing, no track time (and probably never will), goals are a nice looking DD with not to harsh of a ride. Looking at less than 200-250 for springs. Upper/ lower CA's will be upgraded after I fix a few more things. And I'm not looking to do coilovers as they are just to expensive for me.
Matthew
Matthew
Former Sponsor
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 778
From: n/a
So I am looking to lower my car alittle but still keep the ride as smooth as possible (yes, I know 1. its a Mustang and 2. lowering doesnt improve ride quality). I was looking at either "B", "C", or UPR springs. I just ordered MM CC plates, and new spring isolaters from AM.
Thanks in advance Jazzer (the resident suspension guru), and those others who respond.
Matthew
Thanks in advance Jazzer (the resident suspension guru), and those others who respond.
Matthew
Retired Moderator
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,235
From: SF Bay Area
For your described needs, they OEM ones are fine. The problem with a new set of UCA's is one of two things. The Mustang 4-link suspension is a bind-fest or "quadra-bind" as it is commonly referred, and there are two fundamental types of UCA's on the market. The first is a solid poly/poly bushed arm that is BEYOND horrible to install on a DD ride. It will compound the already inherant bind by about 10 fold and either the arms or your torque boxes will eventually fail. For any non-believers:
The alternative, is a spherical bushed UCA, but will introduce LARGE amounts of NVH and don't see you benefiting from a set of those. Besides, due to the funky motion in which the quadra-bind moves, even a spherica bushed UCA may pose some issues on the extreme end of articulation.
LCA's..... good idea, but strongly recommend you go with a set of spherical/poly bushed ones. This, combined with removal of the quad-shocks, can improve your cornering experience quite a bit.
I would stop at this point, as you would need to make a sugnificant jump in cost and NVH to go the next step in corner-carving. New LCA's, along with some properly matched springs/dampers to go with your existing FLSFC's will make your car handle/ride quite well.
Jazzer says you will be happy my son
Thread Starter
Resident Ginger
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,624
From: Cali
Oh Jazzer you are a funny man. Yes I have read your "Official Suspension Guide" before and let me say "I am not worthy" 
. haha.
What are your opinions of Steeda's springs? Better, worst than UPR springs?
Thanks,
Matthew
. haha.What are your opinions of Steeda's springs? Better, worst than UPR springs?
Thanks,
Matthew
Former Sponsor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,570
From: FL
Jedi Master Jazzer pic is HYSTERICAL!!!
I've had all of the springs listed in this thread, and I like them all. Of course, I want you to buy the UPR springs, and they do ride pretty nicely since they have a little bit of a progressive rate to them, but the B springs probably have the softest rate. At least that's how they feel from the seat of the pants.
I'm riding on the UPR springs on my daily driver and I'm very happy with them.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-s...-front-94.html
I've had all of the springs listed in this thread, and I like them all. Of course, I want you to buy the UPR springs, and they do ride pretty nicely since they have a little bit of a progressive rate to them, but the B springs probably have the softest rate. At least that's how they feel from the seat of the pants.
I'm riding on the UPR springs on my daily driver and I'm very happy with them.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-s...-front-94.html