Foxbody Suspension Guide
04-04-2013, 03:35 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: VA
Posts: 11
Foxbody Suspension Guide
As I am rebuilding the rear suspension on my 1990 Mustang GT, and thought I would make a Guide to what I am doing and maybe make it a little easier on someone else. Also I have also found ways around some tools you might need, with out skipping out on the quality of work.
1. After removing my rear wheels I noticed that my drums were rusted. There for I removed them, and on the outside of the drum I removed the access rust using PB Blaster, and a wire brush. Then I used High Temp. paint to help prevent more rust from forming.
2. I removed the strut. Using an 18mm socket and 15mm wrench on the bottom of the strut (closest to the axcel). Here is a big helpful hint when you go to remove the strut from the body, grab the top of strut with a pair of vice grips, then use the 15mm wrench to loosen the nut, after it is loose use a 15mm deep well socket to remove it the rest of the way.
3. The removal of the lower control arm has been a pain in my rear, mainly after discovering a few bad bolts, and having to drop my exhaust. but an 18mm wrench, a 15mm socket, and a 18mm socket. use a jack and place it under the rear axel on the side the control arm you are working on, and jack it up to remove pressure off of the bolts and the spring. Then use the 18mm socket to remove the sway bar (might as well go ahead and remove it all of the way). Then with your 15mm socket and 18mm wrench remove the bolt near where you removed the strut from, right behind your drum breaks. now you might have to play a little with how high you have your jack to get the bolt out, but once you have lower the jack and lower control arm will lower and the spring will come off as well. Now the last bolt can be a little tricky depending on what kind of exhaust you are running. I had to drop my exhaust because i run an x pipe with flowmasters on it. but you need to be able to get behind that last bold with a 15mm socket. then that drops the lower control arm without needing a spring compressor.
I will continue later on with the upper control arms, because I do have the adjustable control arms and once I figure out the right setting for them to get the right angle, I will then be able to completely remove the quad shocks from the rear suspension without any problems while driving down the road
1. After removing my rear wheels I noticed that my drums were rusted. There for I removed them, and on the outside of the drum I removed the access rust using PB Blaster, and a wire brush. Then I used High Temp. paint to help prevent more rust from forming.
2. I removed the strut. Using an 18mm socket and 15mm wrench on the bottom of the strut (closest to the axcel). Here is a big helpful hint when you go to remove the strut from the body, grab the top of strut with a pair of vice grips, then use the 15mm wrench to loosen the nut, after it is loose use a 15mm deep well socket to remove it the rest of the way.
3. The removal of the lower control arm has been a pain in my rear, mainly after discovering a few bad bolts, and having to drop my exhaust. but an 18mm wrench, a 15mm socket, and a 18mm socket. use a jack and place it under the rear axel on the side the control arm you are working on, and jack it up to remove pressure off of the bolts and the spring. Then use the 18mm socket to remove the sway bar (might as well go ahead and remove it all of the way). Then with your 15mm socket and 18mm wrench remove the bolt near where you removed the strut from, right behind your drum breaks. now you might have to play a little with how high you have your jack to get the bolt out, but once you have lower the jack and lower control arm will lower and the spring will come off as well. Now the last bolt can be a little tricky depending on what kind of exhaust you are running. I had to drop my exhaust because i run an x pipe with flowmasters on it. but you need to be able to get behind that last bold with a 15mm socket. then that drops the lower control arm without needing a spring compressor.
I will continue later on with the upper control arms, because I do have the adjustable control arms and once I figure out the right setting for them to get the right angle, I will then be able to completely remove the quad shocks from the rear suspension without any problems while driving down the road
04-05-2013, 08:24 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: VA
Posts: 11
04-13-2013, 06:31 AM
#3
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
You can yank the quads after a set of lowers anyway, but guessing you are focused on the strip. Do yourself a favor and go with a set of uppers that contain at least 1 spherical bearing, to reduce your bind.
For those who are not members of FB, do you have another link to pics?
Jazzer
For those who are not members of FB, do you have another link to pics?
Jazzer
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