I have a 2014 Mustang GT, heard popping noise on passenger rear end, removed aftermarket panhard bar (not sure of brand) to test for noise, drove for a block at low speed, felt car swaying but no noise, returned home to reinstall panhard bar and now the bolt holes are about a half inch spread apart, I adjusted the bar to the new spread but Im looking to know how to get back to the old spread measurement or what is the correct measurement, yes the vehicle is lowered, I have not yet measured for center due to it was late and work in morning I only counted the threads

 

You may have bent your suspension as well. The car is not meant to be driven without the panhard bar because it locates the axle center to the body. Without it, the axle is free to move sideways back and forth. You are lucky you didn't have a wreck or kill someone. You should be able to push on the side of the car and move it towards the hole so that it will line up. Other than that, adjust it out so that it will bolt up and then measure the space between the wheels and fenders and keep adjusting the bar back until it is centered.

 

jjames74, proeagles is absolutely right. This is just a addition to what proeagles has already stated. . Using masking tape, secure a plump bob (or string with a nut tied to the end) to the rear fender on both sides, allowing it to hang.
1. Measure the distance from the string to the wheel on each side
2. Turn the panhard bar clockwise or counter-clockwise until both measurements are within 1/8" of each other
3. Apply blue Loctite and tighten jam nuts. If you can get a wrench in there, it is okay to drop one side at a time
4. Tighten the factory bolts to 129 lb-ft.
5. Double check everything and enjoy improved performance!

 

It's also possible that whomever installed the bar didn't install it correctly as in, with the suspension unloaded. The popping was the binding of the bushing. I've seen it happen with both front and rear control arms and poly sway bar bushings when they are installed and torqued down while free hanging.

The difference in the mounting points could just be natural settling of the suspension since it wasn't bound by the bar. Hard to say without having a reference point of where the rear axle is in relation to the body now vs before his test drive.

Buck's method will at least provide a way to recenter the rear. Bent, we'll have to see based on the outcome after recentering.

Edited to fix loaded/unloaded in my initial comment.

 

Thanks for the input, I got it recentered by Buck's info and looking in to it more but I also discovered that the bar is a SR Performance double adjustable bar, horrible reviews, mainly for the cheap aluminum spacers, it' a do not buy for anyone else, I went with Steeda without the spherical ends

 

jjames74, glad to be of service. I upgraded my 2014 GT, front and rear, with mostly Steeda suspension parts, including the same panhard bar you have. Also, when upgrading suspension, always go with items that are adjustable. I know they are a little more expensive, but of great benefit when "fine tuning" the suspension.

 

I'm glad to hear you got it fixed. Probably another lesson learned here is that cheaper isn't always best. I'm guessing that SR bar was way cheaper than the Steeda. Many viewers on this form are always asking where they can get the cheapest mods. Also, the advice to always get adjustable is spot on, especially with this particular part since lowering the car effectively changes the roll center of the suspension causing the suspension to get out of alignment. It is not much mind you, but it's the details that matter.

 

Nice, glad it all worked out and that there's no permanent damage!