07gillyc

Does anyone know how hard it is to change axles in a 99 to 04 cobra?

97targa

you need to remove the diff cover, unbolt the center pin and slide it out. Then push the axles inwards to remove the c-clips. Before all that the brake calipers/brackets and rotors must come off. If the car has ABS, then you need to squirt some penetrating oil on the shaft where the ringland sits to help move it outwards alittle bit becuase it stops the axles from going in all the way. I worked it with a breaker bar, but you need to be careful as they are somewhat brittle. The sensor also has to come out to allow the axleshaft to push into the diff housing for the c-clips to release. Make sure you get the same spline axles or they won't match up to your carrier!

Ellik

^what he said, except getting the additional splines is the whole point of the swap, which means you have to swap out the carrier to an 01 or 03-04 as well.

redeye

my 03 you didnt have to pull the diff cover ther was no c clips.

ponysnake99

I put longer wheel studs on my cobra and removed the axle to do it (a lot more trouble than its worth btw). 97targa's advice is correct, but for a solid axle. the irs uses aSLA set up which keeps the axle retained from behind the knuckle through a set of races.
1. loosen wheel studs and jack the car up to a workable height and make sure it is supported well.
2. remove the wheels
3. with someone in the car have them press your brakes, then remove the axle nuts (36mm)(it is on tight, 240 lb-ft to be exact, PB blaster is your friend, so is leverage). applying the brakes keeps your rotors from turning so you can crank down on it
---work on one side at a time---
4. detatch the calipers (2 13mm? bolts)and anchor plates (2 15mm? bolts) and tie the calipers off to the side with a coat hanger (no need to disconnect and bleed) and remove rotors
5. put a second jack under the lower control arm, not enough to put load on the spring, but enough to keep it supported
---detatching the spindle, knuckle...w/e u want to call it---
6. remove the toe-link bar (15mm crown nut) and swing it out of the way (mark the base of the link where it meets the thread incase you accidentally twist your links and lose your toe setting)
6. leaving the spring and shock alone, mark a line on your top bolt (its a cam bolt/essenntric nut) and spindle, it'll retain your alignment angle for re-install
7. remove the upper and lower spindle bolts (15mm?, 18mm?). if you supported it with the jack right, the bolts should slide right out.
8. jack up on the lower control arm a bit to slide the top of the spindle forward to slide it out (its fixed so the spindle doesnt fall out), the bottom is much easier.
---the axles...finally---
9. they should slide out no problem with the spindles, theres no clips, only a sway bar and lower control arm to manuever around.
10 if theyre stuck to the spindles, tap it with a soft hammer and they'll fall out through the back, dont wanna messthe threads up

install is the reverse of removaland dont forget torque specs!

Upper arm bushing-to-knuckle nut 66 lb-ft
Lower arm and bushing-to-knuckle nut 85 lb-ft
Toe link-to-knuckle nut 35 lb-ft
Axle shaft-to-hub retainer 240 lb-ft
Wheel nuts 100 lb-ft

keeping the shock attached keeps your conrol arm from dropping and sending your spring flying, but if youhave too little room to remove the axle, remove the lower shock mount so you can drop the control arm, but dont forget to keep it supported.

and just because it sounds daunting:

Ellik

^ nice write-up, BUT if you are replacing with 01/03-04 axles, you will have to upgrade the carrier as well as the # of splines will not match up.

07gillyc

hey thanx alot guys im gonna give it a shot ill let you know how it turns out.

07gillyc

One other thing right away is it alot of extra work to change the gears right away? What ratio do you think I should go with some people were telling me 3.73s, 4.10s, 4.30s which one is the best for a 5 speed cobra? thanx.

ponysnake99

the gears require the pumpkin out pretty much, PITA differential cover, lash, shims, pinion, driveshaft flanges...not to mention the tools. if your not comfortable or experienced in rear ends...save it for a shop. but if u must ask, the 4.10's i had were nice and would recommend it to any cobra owner.

livefast1

need some specialty tools for gears at the least dial indicator, micrometer set, lever type inch pound wrench.