run the teksid but be careful u have a smaller cubic inch motor, it has its limits, in track only car with a turbo setup for YSI/F1 procharger youll be pushing the limits of these smaller motors even with the right precautions, a couple minor hiccups and you'll be splitting her open. what kinda power you lookin at?

 

That is correct. When making big power, with relatively small cubes, you must be very careful. NEVER hot lap your car. My car gets at least a 20 min. cool down period between each run, as longevity is important to me, especially with the kind of boost that I am running.

Be smart...

 

Don't forget the aluminum expands under heat too. The difference is in the setup. Aluminum can (and should) be built tighter to compensate for the heat expansion, so aluminum due to its nature is actually more forgiving under heat as long as you keep it there. I'm not saying that too much for too long won't kill it, extreme situations can kill ANY motor, but if it's built for it, it can take it. I should've probably read the 10-12 posts prior to this, I really don't know where this thread has been.

 

After reading...

The aluminator block might be better for your application. It's just as good as the Teksid and cheaper (in some cases) as well. They come ready to go, unlinke the Teksid which will need machining. The big daddy of course is the SHM race block...but after machining you're looking at a 5800 dollar price tag. The next in the pecking order is the iron Boss 5.0 Modular. Really stout caps and mains. Lots of material, yadda yadda...a little pricier still, but you will save money by only having to build one. The MMR race block is up there too, but can be had after machining for about the same as the SHM block, but you get the cubes out of the MMR block.

But +1 on what the guys are saying, without knowing your power level goals and for what purpose you're building the engine, it's like trying to pour a beer in the dark.

 

your best bet is the old iron 2v block. The teksid has no real advantage other than weight. Aluminum blocks can be repaired, but lets face it... your not going to repair it, even if it breaks. The weight saving is minimal in comparison to the cost. If you were going to do a mid power car, and track race it then Id be all for the teksid... but in reality its just going to be a bragging point... and as others have mentioned hot lapping is a concern, also aluminum blocks have special considerations in high hp drag racing due to the processes used to strengthen the block (it basically weakens over repeated extreme heat cycles)... IMO either one would be just fine, but the teksid is not necessary and the iron block should save you some coin, both in initial cost and labor

 

I built a regular terminator iron block. They have been proven to withstand over 1100 rwhp... Can't go wrong with the Termy block.

 

yup the guy who tunes my car has one non stroker at 1155 rwhp, how ever it did last 2 seasons it eventually took its toll and broke not only did it break it broke open a water jacket and hydo locked the motor...no replacement for displacement comes into play when your putting down big power and looking for dependability.

 

+1 ... but some people would rather believe internet BS

 

havnt read this thread for quite a while been back over in the 5.0 section talking to the guys, and after strippin the car down to .... pretty much nothing, i have decided that i am probably going to be going with a termi swap (just keep it stock with a pulley or something till i get used to it)

 

God I hate that word "termi"...it sounds so girly. Definitely not a word to describe a 400horse motor...just my opinion.