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96 cobra Clutch swap...I have no idea what I'm doing!

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Old 08-31-2010, 07:18 PM
  #11  
mfj
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Installing is a lot harder than taking it apart. It can really be a bitch, sometimes, aligning the input shaft to go into the clutch hub. That is the most difficult part lol.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:52 PM
  #12  
tyler72
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Just make sure to use a clutch alignment tool before you torque down the pressure plate, otherwise you'll never get it back in. If you had a spare driveshaft yoke I would suggest that you pop the trans into gear and slide the yoke in so the you can rotate the output (which in turn rotates the input since it is in gear) to help line up the splines on the clutch. However, this would only be a last resort in your situation. Installing isn't too hard especially since you now know where all the bolts are. The hardest part will be getting the input shaft lined up, but once you do that it should go pretty smoothly.

Are you planning on replacing the pilot bearing too?
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:36 AM
  #13  
Blackvenom01
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glad you got it dude...ya it will def be harder to put it back on...make sure you get the right torgue specs for the clutch and flywheel also make sure to clean all your fingerprints off...tyler72 is correct about tryin to line it make it fun but im sure you can do it if you got it off...you changing your throwout bearing hopefully your kit comes with one if not i would suggest gettin one!!! thats something that should always be changed when your clutch is...good luck
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:08 AM
  #14  
Idiot
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thanks for all the advice and support guys.

Yes I had already planned on replacing both the throwout bearing and pilot bearing.

Once I have all the torque specs are there any bolts which will definitely need thread locker? What color? I know I also need silicone for the shifter, (at least there was silicone on it when I removed it) is it necessary?
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:29 PM
  #15  
Blackvenom01
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the flywheel and clutch need blue thread locker...stangshiftergaskets.com makes a gasket for the shifter if you dont want to use the silicone but i would anyways just to make sure it seals...but it is a needed thing cause it fills with fluid and can leak
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:31 PM
  #16  
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Thanks man, I was getting ready to have to bump the thread up and beg for some more advice. I already bought the blue thread locker and was gonna use it on the flywheel exclusively, now I'll put it on the clutch assembly as well.

I have an alignment tool I borrowed from a friend, I'm still looking for the torque specs, and according to the tracking info, my clutch should be here tomorrow.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:41 PM
  #17  
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is it possible that I just removed my STOCK clutch???

With 90K on the car??

The top bolt was still in on the starter. Which seems weird.

The clutch says Valeo, which I know makes a lot of fords parts, the flywheel has NOT been resurfaced, and is the10.5'' iron nodular flywheel.

Sure seems like it, but I don't have the experience to know if 90K on the clutch is even possible.
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:33 AM
  #18  
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ya thats possible i would think most would be changed round 60k also could be oem replacement....dont count on me for the torgue specs but im pretty sure the flywheel is 25ftlbs and the clutch is 35 but like i said dont count on me...also if you didnt notice when you took your drive shaft bolts out there was locktite on those too...and lastly make sure your throwout bearing is already packed with grease most come backed already but i still had some too it and the input shaft and pilot bearing
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Old 09-03-2010, 12:44 PM
  #19  
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the flywheel is probably ALOT more than 25 ftlbs, I believe the flywheel bolts on my talon where around 90-95 ftlbs.
oh and do NOT use an impact putting it back together!
the pressure plate bolts don't get too tight either, probably 17ftlbs or so..
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Old 09-06-2010, 11:00 AM
  #20  
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Thanks for trying to help with the torque specs guys but I got 'em...

In case anyone else is searching for them a year from now,

Flywheel Torque specs-- 59-64 ft/lbs 8 bolt flywheel
Pressure plate to flywheel-- 35ft/lbs

So....I can't make my flywheel line up on the car...I also tried lining it up with the flywheel which I removed from the car and I can't make it line up. It is DEFINITELY the right flywheel. I just think there was a machining error during fabrication. Am I totally retarded and there is a trick to making it fit, is this a common problem??

If I can't get anything figured out today I am going to take the flywheel to work w/me. I work as a machinist and I will be able to tell within minutes if this flywheel has an identical hole pattern to my flywheel or not. And now that I've had a chance to inspect my old flywheel, it doesn't seem to be warped, chipped, or damaged in ANY WAY. Can't I just reuse this f'in thing and be done w/this **** already?
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