Dynoed..
All right, ordered the boost box. I was able to grab one for $160 shipped.
So I will have boost reduction by gear. A low/high boost setting by the push of a button (instead of turning the MBC, get back it take it for a spin to check psi, then repeat till it's dialed in)
It's got a learning feature that will adjust itself to hold the set boost level as long as it can, MBC doesn't. I'm holding 27ish till like the 5K (29.5psi spike) then it drops to 23ish by 6K. I hope it can hold 28.5/29.5psi and about 25/26 by redline. IDK I will just have to wait till I get it.
So I will have boost reduction by gear. A low/high boost setting by the push of a button (instead of turning the MBC, get back it take it for a spin to check psi, then repeat till it's dialed in)
It's got a learning feature that will adjust itself to hold the set boost level as long as it can, MBC doesn't. I'm holding 27ish till like the 5K (29.5psi spike) then it drops to 23ish by 6K. I hope it can hold 28.5/29.5psi and about 25/26 by redline. IDK I will just have to wait till I get it.
Nice man! It should be a pleasure to operate off the line and until you get out of the traction issue zone now, or at least ten times better. I totally agree with BB about the tires and axles.
Yeah, I can only go as low as the WG spring so I can set 1st at 13psi, 2nd around 21psi and 3rd and 4th at 29psi. DD will be the same just 22ish in 3rd and 4th. I will just use boost reduction this season and just get slicks next summer. Next will probably just be a WOT box, Ported/polished Intake manifold and throttle body with a "heat shield" gasket. Nothing too expensive.
Last edited by perfect.disguise; Mar 30, 2011 at 06:01 PM.
Just wondering how reliable they are and if you've had any problems with it or know of any common problems with them.
They are very reliable, if you have a good tuner, and aren't cheap on modding it (half-***). I would put money on having trans issues before the motor goes. Main common trouble is 3rd gear syncro/shift fork.


