Whats it gonna run ?
Well I first planned on having the Mach done by April. But thats just not going to happen at this point. Probably $5k-$6k from being done with the Mach.
Which leaves me to my other project, the fox body. It only needs a few, inexpensive things in comparison to the mach. Front brakes, inner tie rods end ( have need to install) I'll get an aluminum driveshaft, and a loop. And some axleshafts. Also have a tremec 3550 I need to install to replace the T-5.
I've always wanted to make it into a track car, so I'm wondering what do you guys think it'll run ?
Motor: Air gap intake, AFR 165's, ultra gold roller rockers, E cam, full MSD ignition dizzy, box ect ect. 4bbl carb, currently a holley 670 street avenger but it;s being a pita so I'll prob buy a new carb. BBK long tubes, BBK O/R H pipe. dynomax bullets.



chassis has steeda tubular upper and lower control arms. Fixed non adjustable ones right now. and FLSFC's and a nice strut tower/firewall brace. 3.73's
By the time it gets to the track it will have the trans, shafts ect the other stuff I mentioned in the first paragraph + some big and littles, either DR's or slicks not sure yet. It's just become obvious the fox is the much cheaper option right now. I love racing at the track and I know as it sits the fox will eat the mach. And there is nothing wrong with the mach so why tear it down until I'm ready. And I got a car hauler last year so I can tow it to and from the track.
What do you think it's capable of ?
Keep in mind i'll be spinning it higher than the video and I can shift a bit quicker than what I was in that video. I have to be somewhat easy on it now with the tie rods and warped brakes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AhN-...el_video_title
Which leaves me to my other project, the fox body. It only needs a few, inexpensive things in comparison to the mach. Front brakes, inner tie rods end ( have need to install) I'll get an aluminum driveshaft, and a loop. And some axleshafts. Also have a tremec 3550 I need to install to replace the T-5.
I've always wanted to make it into a track car, so I'm wondering what do you guys think it'll run ?
Motor: Air gap intake, AFR 165's, ultra gold roller rockers, E cam, full MSD ignition dizzy, box ect ect. 4bbl carb, currently a holley 670 street avenger but it;s being a pita so I'll prob buy a new carb. BBK long tubes, BBK O/R H pipe. dynomax bullets.



chassis has steeda tubular upper and lower control arms. Fixed non adjustable ones right now. and FLSFC's and a nice strut tower/firewall brace. 3.73's
By the time it gets to the track it will have the trans, shafts ect the other stuff I mentioned in the first paragraph + some big and littles, either DR's or slicks not sure yet. It's just become obvious the fox is the much cheaper option right now. I love racing at the track and I know as it sits the fox will eat the mach. And there is nothing wrong with the mach so why tear it down until I'm ready. And I got a car hauler last year so I can tow it to and from the track.
What do you think it's capable of ?
Keep in mind i'll be spinning it higher than the video and I can shift a bit quicker than what I was in that video. I have to be somewhat easy on it now with the tie rods and warped brakes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AhN-...el_video_title
Last edited by Explosive; Jan 16, 2012 at 05:11 PM.
Hmm, guess I'm going to have to get it going and take it out and see what happens.
Thoughts on what could get me closer to low 12's ? I wanna race this year and I like racing my Mach but I think it's going to be done around 13.3x so I'd rather run the fox for now.
Thoughts on what could get me closer to low 12's ? I wanna race this year and I like racing my Mach but I think it's going to be done around 13.3x so I'd rather run the fox for now.
if you can get a better cam in it I would do so. Are you running stock compression pistons? Are the 165's milled for smaller combustion chambers at all?
You could easily pull high 11s with that motor and a few tweaks, but as it stands and with a rough suspension setup I'd agree with mid 12s.
You could easily pull high 11s with that motor and a few tweaks, but as it stands and with a rough suspension setup I'd agree with mid 12s.
Heads are not worked, just the way they had been shipped from AFR, block is a 91, stock lower end, been punched a little, new rings bearings ect, rebuilt.
Cam's the only thing I really wish I had done differently knowing what I know today. It does need a water pump, If I was smart I'd throw a cam in it then but really don't want to at this point. Maybe I'll run it and see what happens, it has no headliner or anything I could start ripping seats out while I'm at it lol.
I really wanted to get this into high 11's/low 12's for a couple seasons then possibly build a 408 when funds become available.
Cam's the only thing I really wish I had done differently knowing what I know today. It does need a water pump, If I was smart I'd throw a cam in it then but really don't want to at this point. Maybe I'll run it and see what happens, it has no headliner or anything I could start ripping seats out while I'm at it lol.
I really wanted to get this into high 11's/low 12's for a couple seasons then possibly build a 408 when funds become available.
Last edited by Explosive; Jan 16, 2012 at 07:55 PM.
Ditch the E cam, lose the seats...ought to be damn close to your goal.
as far as gearing I would keep what ya got. It's probably better to not have to shift into 5th early. I've seen plenty of people throw tall-assed gears in their ride and end up going slower just because they shift into overdrive way too soon. what size tire you planning to run?
The car probably won't get a whole heck of a lot lighter without throwing money at fiberglass, high dollar track seats, and light rims, but at that point you might as well just set the motor up properly and gain a lot more overall.



