stealth_GT

I have been lurking around Craigslist for the latest and greatest deals..

I found a 1996 Firebird formula LT1 with 88k miles for $3,500. Body is straight except for a little crack in the front left bumper as well as usual scratches for a 16 year old car rofl

I don't know much about those cars except what I read from Wiki

It's a 250hp 5.7 so I am guessing the usual heads, cam, long tube headers, intake manifold, throttle body route would surely wake this thing up! Along with some good 'ol 4.10s and a nice 3200 stall torque converter.

This all happened along the way of my $10k build up for my AWD Charger...

I figure I might be able to use that money on a dedicated hobby/summer car rather than my daily driver. I'll still add a cam and headers like I had planned and be happy with mid 12's rather than dump a ton of my into my "winter beater" rofl

What would a full bolt on LT1 run with the mods I listed?? low 12's??

bluebeastsrt

Probably low 12s. I've heard 11s but I like to go with what the majority of drivers will get with a set-up. Having a daily driven race car never works out.

stealth_GT

I can live with low 12's if it only costs me about $8k total (including price of car) to get there lol

I do all my own work so that plays a big part in keeping the prices down, plus it keeps me out of trouble

Ditto on the daily driven race car... I plan on cruising, looking good and just having fun with it. Not really into monster builds or street racing anymore... unfortunately!


ps
Amazing how much the prices for the mods are for older cars... LT headers for $475?! Heads for $1,899?? cam for $450? not bad at all.. I am used seeing prices double that for newer cars rofl I feel like a kid in a candy store!

Also been keeping an eye out for older Mustangs, RX-7's (V8 swap), older Vettes (76-88), 92-98 Firebird/Tran Ams...

Stone629

You don't have to spend that much to get heads/cam on that car. Don't be afraid of the ebay LTs, etc, either. I have OBX headers on my car and the fit/finish is perfect. Low 12s wouldn't be hard to get out of that car. I would steer clear of the 4.10s though. In a small 7.5" GM rear, they are that much weaker. Plus they're not an optimal gear the auto. A 3.73 is a much better choice and will handle a good bit more abuse. I have a total of about 5 grand in all my mods. I would think you could get away with that much or less.

JC316

Stock LT1 for 96 is 285HP/330tq. They are good for low 14's stock IIRC. I had a 93 M6 Formula that walked all over my sisters 99 GT. Biggest thing is that they have demonic levels of torque down low.

01snake

Lt1 is garbage ls1-lsx is a better platform and can be had for cheap if you dig into the junkyard ls motors....

JC316

True that the LSx is a much better platform, but the Lt1 isn't exactly a weakling. Get the LE2 H/C combo and it's fairly nasty.

stealth_GT

Not trying to bite this guys style or anything, but this is what I would want mine to look like.. unfortunately, that WS6 body kit and paint would most likely cost more than the car and all the mods I had planned on doing rofl





Ditto.. I seen some Pace Setter ceramic coated Long tubes for a decent price ($479) as well as some other mods for pretty low. I read about 3.73s' being better as well since its a four speed. Pretty cool that those cars can still get pretty good times with only a handful of mods.. I think it would cost about $9-10k to get my RT AWD into the mid 11's

How much power can those rear ends and axles handle?

I really like FTI torque converters and might plan on getting one of those again for that car. Not exactly sure which stall would be best for that motor/trans haven't exactly done a lot of reading on those cars.. yet

Low 14's ain't bad for a stock 17 year old car

I am counting on that low end torque lol first mods I want to get are gears and a 3200/3500 stall converter. Gotta do more homework on the trans though, gotta make sure it locks up in 2nd gear.

I know that, but I can't exactly find an LS1 Trans Am/Firebird for $3k lol

They're pretty spendy still, but I can always drop a stroker in down the line when I have more money.

heads and that Hotcam I seen on youtube videos is the power and sound I am looking for

How much power do the heads/cam/long tubes combo put to the tires?

bluebeastsrt

The nice thing about the LT1 cars is they can be had on the very cheap. Add a couple grand of H/C/I and you'll out perform LS1 cars for about the same investment. Technology is a wonderful thing and an LS3 is going to out perform a ls1 which out performs the LT1 yada yada yada. But all of those motors have decent cubic inchs working in their favor.

Stone629

The 7.5" rears can hold some power, it's how the power is applied that seems to break them, hence the manual guys having 90% of the failures from clutch dumps, hard shifting, etc. Autos apply a steady pressure once launched and are just easier on them. I've made quite a few 11 second 1.6-1.8 60s with no issues, no whining, etc. IMO, stick with the stock rear until/if it starts whining or breaks. Moser and strange rears are expensive.

On that stall you need to pick your cam and gear first, then have a reputable converter builder match the best stall speed/str for you. Most guys just run out and buy the biggest damn stall they can thinking its going to be that much faster and it's not. I would be sure and get a locking converter however. My trap speed shows lower than normal due to not having one. Doesn't effect the ET, but still.

If you want something that idles like the hotcam I'd go with an EPS or one of the GT cams. I've heard the hotcam isn't very effective for whatever reason.