gears
1st Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 76
From:
RE: gears
are all these posts refrencing only the older mustangs (older i mean before current 05-06 bodystyle) i currently have an 06 mustang v6 with only a steeda drop in, and magnaflow exhaust. i am going to get the steeda cold air and ecu tune but i will AFTER i get the gears. I have heard the 05-06-07 mustang does not come with a limited slip. is this true? i had my mind set on 4.10's and a ford racing T-lok and install them together( rev xtreme in tampa quoted $300 for install alone is this correct?) Ford racing has a gearset Part Number M-4209-L373 that appears to be for a 7.5 rear end.. but does that mean ALL 7.5's?
this is my first FR car. i had a wrx and when i changed the gearset i needed to change the on in the tranny too (4wd) so now i am taking full advantage of the ability for cheap acceleration w/o too much horse power.
it appears the question is just a debate between 3.73 and 4.10's i have a few questions...
1) which is better for the daily driver?
2) which is better for gas mileage?
3) which provides better 1/4 mile times? by how much (about)
4) which is better for a vehicle with little/no modifications? (intake/headers/exhaust)
5) which is better for a vehicle with some modifications? (blower/nos)
i always thought the actual horsepower put strain on a tranny but the gears put strain on the outputshaft...
this is my first FR car. i had a wrx and when i changed the gearset i needed to change the on in the tranny too (4wd) so now i am taking full advantage of the ability for cheap acceleration w/o too much horse power.
it appears the question is just a debate between 3.73 and 4.10's i have a few questions...
1) which is better for the daily driver?
2) which is better for gas mileage?
3) which provides better 1/4 mile times? by how much (about)
4) which is better for a vehicle with little/no modifications? (intake/headers/exhaust)
5) which is better for a vehicle with some modifications? (blower/nos)
i always thought the actual horsepower put strain on a tranny but the gears put strain on the outputshaft...
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,594
From:
RE: gears
ORIGINAL: blackv6
are all these posts refrencing only the older mustangs (older i mean before current 05-06 bodystyle) i currently have an 06 mustang v6 with only a steeda drop in, and magnaflow exhaust. i am going to get the steeda cold air and ecu tune but i will AFTER i get the gears. I have heard the 05-06-07 mustang does not come with a limited slip. is this true? i had my mind set on 4.10's and a ford racing T-lok and install them together( rev xtreme in tampa quoted $300 for install alone is this correct?) Ford racing has a gearset Part Number M-4209-L373 that appears to be for a 7.5 rear end.. but does that mean ALL 7.5's?
this is my first FR car. i had a wrx and when i changed the gearset i needed to change the on in the tranny too (4wd) so now i am taking full advantage of the ability for cheap acceleration w/o too much horse power.
it appears the question is just a debate between 3.73 and 4.10's i have a few questions...
1) which is better for the daily driver?
2) which is better for gas mileage?
3) which provides better 1/4 mile times? by how much (about)
4) which is better for a vehicle with little/no modifications? (intake/headers/exhaust)
5) which is better for a vehicle with some modifications? (blower/nos)
i always thought the actual horsepower put strain on a tranny but the gears put strain on the outputshaft...
are all these posts refrencing only the older mustangs (older i mean before current 05-06 bodystyle) i currently have an 06 mustang v6 with only a steeda drop in, and magnaflow exhaust. i am going to get the steeda cold air and ecu tune but i will AFTER i get the gears. I have heard the 05-06-07 mustang does not come with a limited slip. is this true? i had my mind set on 4.10's and a ford racing T-lok and install them together( rev xtreme in tampa quoted $300 for install alone is this correct?) Ford racing has a gearset Part Number M-4209-L373 that appears to be for a 7.5 rear end.. but does that mean ALL 7.5's?
this is my first FR car. i had a wrx and when i changed the gearset i needed to change the on in the tranny too (4wd) so now i am taking full advantage of the ability for cheap acceleration w/o too much horse power.
it appears the question is just a debate between 3.73 and 4.10's i have a few questions...
1) which is better for the daily driver?
2) which is better for gas mileage?
3) which provides better 1/4 mile times? by how much (about)
4) which is better for a vehicle with little/no modifications? (intake/headers/exhaust)
5) which is better for a vehicle with some modifications? (blower/nos)
i always thought the actual horsepower put strain on a tranny but the gears put strain on the outputshaft...
the 4.0 SOHC is rev happy and can make very nice power in the upper ranges. they do seem alittle sluggish down low. probably from the extra weight of the S197 car
3.8's don't breath heavily like the 4.0 does stock that's why 4.10's are not really needed on a stock 3.8.
heavily ported and a big cam sure the 3.8 needs 4.10's
too much gear may not hurt but there is a point where it won't help either.
everybody who advocates 4.10's on a stock or bolt-on or stock engine blown 3.8. here is one question
why not just go 4.56's or 5.13's and if you say no then explain why
for 4.0SOHC 4.10's are a nice gear for that engine even stock. it's a completely different animal than the 3.8
on a 4.0 you mileage will drop. anybody that thinks it won't need to take Physics. depending on driving style you may see a 4-6 or more mpg drop on the highway over long trips
4.10's will give a slight advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73's in the 4.0 because the 4.0 has a damn nice top end. 4.10's in the 3.8 however offer no advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73 on a stock or near stock engine. i know i learned from having both gears in my car along with the stock 2.73's and a nice set of 3.45's
if you plan on adding nitrous forget using the Ford T-lok. they are weak and are know to spit spyder gears out faster than a meth junkie. also the clutch packs wear out fast. i replaced 2 sets on my old T-lok and the slippage was probably the reason it never blew. there were serious chips out of the spyder gears though and the T-lok housing showing light hairline cracks.
get a Detroit Truetrac differential. they will make that 7.5 handle just about anything you throw at it. TA performance makes a Girdel for the 7.5 but i believe it won't clear the Panhard rod on your car. i understand that if you contact TA they will make a low profile girdle for you to clear the panhard rod
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,618
From:
RE: gears
ORIGINAL: nanaki
if you read what cobra said in that post, he was talking about turbo charged cars.
ORIGINAL: deezelnut
i did a search and someone actually recommonded 3.45 gears in a new edge. it was cobra232
i did a search and someone actually recommonded 3.45 gears in a new edge. it was cobra232
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,594
From:
RE: gears
ORIGINAL: deezelnut
where you still want 4.10s. i have been working on cars since i was 13 and i never new anyone that actually wanted the taller gears on a turbo. let me, he said the engine needs to work more to build boost faster, well inthat case, the turbo is setup wrong. a proper setup will spool full boost anywhere between 1800 an d 2500 rpms. which is around 1000 rpms faster than a centrifugal
ORIGINAL: nanaki
if you read what cobra said in that post, he was talking about turbo charged cars.
ORIGINAL: deezelnut
i did a search and someone actually recommonded 3.45 gears in a new edge. it was cobra232
i did a search and someone actually recommonded 3.45 gears in a new edge. it was cobra232
i used to try to make full boost by 3500rpm's in the buicks. they seem to run the best there. otherwise full boost at 2500 is putting wear on the wastegate. and with 4.10's you can run right through the gear before it spools. to spool properly with 4.10's you need a big turbo which causes it to lug because of lack of low rpm boost. the dynamics are no different than running a smaller turbo and less gear
also ever try to control a steep geared turbo car? when boost builds you have to pay real close attention to the gas pedal and start to roll out of it so as not to smoke the tires as rpm's and or boost increases.
Subaru STI's are like this. you let off and the damn thing is still pulling and building boost. very hard to get used to
Turbo's on diesels are matched to spool faster because the lack of rpm room to play with
extremely few people run anything bigger than 3.73's on street turbo setups ( not including diesel trucks)
optimum gear for most street turbo setups is from 3.27-3.73 depending on turbo size or AR ratio
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,618
From:
RE: gears
ORIGINAL: cobra232
i used to build turbo buicks so i have been around small displacement turbo cars for quite awhile. while i agree that there are alot of turbo's on cars that are not sized properly not all are.
i used to try to make full boost by 3500rpm's in the buicks. they seem to run the best there. otherwise full boost at 2500 is putting wear on the wastegate. and with 4.10's you can run right through the gear before it spools. to spool properly with 4.10's you need a big turbo which causes it to lug because of lack of low rpm boost. the dynamics are no different than running a smaller turbo and less gear
also ever try to control a steep geared turbo car? when boost builds you have to pay real close attention to the gas pedal and start to roll out of it so as not to smoke the tires as rpm's and or boost increases.
Subaru STI's are like this. you let off and the damn thing is still pulling and building boost. very hard to get used to
Turbo's on diesels are matched to spool faster because the lack of rpm room to play with
extremely few people run anything bigger than 3.73's on street turbo setups ( not including diesel trucks)
optimum gear for most street turbo setups is from 3.27-3.73 depending on turbo size or AR ratio
ORIGINAL: deezelnut
where you still want 4.10s. i have been working on cars since i was 13 and i never new anyone that actually wanted the taller gears on a turbo. let me, he said the engine needs to work more to build boost faster, well inthat case, the turbo is setup wrong. a proper setup will spool full boost anywhere between 1800 an d 2500 rpms. which is around 1000 rpms faster than a centrifugal
ORIGINAL: nanaki
if you read what cobra said in that post, he was talking about turbo charged cars.
ORIGINAL: deezelnut
i did a search and someone actually recommonded 3.45 gears in a new edge. it was cobra232
i did a search and someone actually recommonded 3.45 gears in a new edge. it was cobra232
i used to try to make full boost by 3500rpm's in the buicks. they seem to run the best there. otherwise full boost at 2500 is putting wear on the wastegate. and with 4.10's you can run right through the gear before it spools. to spool properly with 4.10's you need a big turbo which causes it to lug because of lack of low rpm boost. the dynamics are no different than running a smaller turbo and less gear
also ever try to control a steep geared turbo car? when boost builds you have to pay real close attention to the gas pedal and start to roll out of it so as not to smoke the tires as rpm's and or boost increases.
Subaru STI's are like this. you let off and the damn thing is still pulling and building boost. very hard to get used to
Turbo's on diesels are matched to spool faster because the lack of rpm room to play with
extremely few people run anything bigger than 3.73's on street turbo setups ( not including diesel trucks)
optimum gear for most street turbo setups is from 3.27-3.73 depending on turbo size or AR ratio
1st Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 76
From:
RE: gears
ORIGINAL: cobra232
go 4.10's
the 4.0 SOHC is rev happy and can make very nice power in the upper ranges. they do seem alittle sluggish down low. probably from the extra weight of the S197 car
3.8's don't breath heavily like the 4.0 does stock that's why 4.10's are not really needed on a stock 3.8.
heavily ported and a big cam sure the 3.8 needs 4.10's
too much gear may not hurt but there is a point where it won't help either.
everybody who advocates 4.10's on a stock or bolt-on or stock engine blown 3.8. here is one question
why not just go 4.56's or 5.13's and if you say no then explain why
for 4.0SOHC 4.10's are a nice gear for that engine even stock. it's a completely different animal than the 3.8
on a 4.0 you mileage will drop. anybody that thinks it won't need to take Physics. depending on driving style you may see a 4-6 or more mpg drop on the highway over long trips
4.10's will give a slight advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73's in the 4.0 because the 4.0 has a damn nice top end. 4.10's in the 3.8 however offer no advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73 on a stock or near stock engine. i know i learned from having both gears in my car along with the stock 2.73's and a nice set of 3.45's
if you plan on adding nitrous forget using the Ford T-lok. they are weak and are know to spit spyder gears out faster than a meth junkie. also the clutch packs wear out fast. i replaced 2 sets on my old T-lok and the slippage was probably the reason it never blew. there were serious chips out of the spyder gears though and the T-lok housing showing light hairline cracks.
get a Detroit Truetrac differential. they will make that 7.5 handle just about anything you throw at it. TA performance makes a Girdel for the 7.5 but i believe it won't clear the Panhard rod on your car. i understand that if you contact TA they will make a low profile girdle for you to clear the panhard rod
ORIGINAL: blackv6
are all these posts refrencing only the older mustangs (older i mean before current 05-06 bodystyle) i currently have an 06 mustang v6 with only a steeda drop in, and magnaflow exhaust. i am going to get the steeda cold air and ecu tune but i will AFTER i get the gears. I have heard the 05-06-07 mustang does not come with a limited slip. is this true? i had my mind set on 4.10's and a ford racing T-lok and install them together( rev xtreme in tampa quoted $300 for install alone is this correct?) Ford racing has a gearset Part Number M-4209-L373 that appears to be for a 7.5 rear end.. but does that mean ALL 7.5's?
this is my first FR car. i had a wrx and when i changed the gearset i needed to change the on in the tranny too (4wd) so now i am taking full advantage of the ability for cheap acceleration w/o too much horse power.
it appears the question is just a debate between 3.73 and 4.10's i have a few questions...
1) which is better for the daily driver?
2) which is better for gas mileage?
3) which provides better 1/4 mile times? by how much (about)
4) which is better for a vehicle with little/no modifications? (intake/headers/exhaust)
5) which is better for a vehicle with some modifications? (blower/nos)
i always thought the actual horsepower put strain on a tranny but the gears put strain on the outputshaft...
are all these posts refrencing only the older mustangs (older i mean before current 05-06 bodystyle) i currently have an 06 mustang v6 with only a steeda drop in, and magnaflow exhaust. i am going to get the steeda cold air and ecu tune but i will AFTER i get the gears. I have heard the 05-06-07 mustang does not come with a limited slip. is this true? i had my mind set on 4.10's and a ford racing T-lok and install them together( rev xtreme in tampa quoted $300 for install alone is this correct?) Ford racing has a gearset Part Number M-4209-L373 that appears to be for a 7.5 rear end.. but does that mean ALL 7.5's?
this is my first FR car. i had a wrx and when i changed the gearset i needed to change the on in the tranny too (4wd) so now i am taking full advantage of the ability for cheap acceleration w/o too much horse power.
it appears the question is just a debate between 3.73 and 4.10's i have a few questions...
1) which is better for the daily driver?
2) which is better for gas mileage?
3) which provides better 1/4 mile times? by how much (about)
4) which is better for a vehicle with little/no modifications? (intake/headers/exhaust)
5) which is better for a vehicle with some modifications? (blower/nos)
i always thought the actual horsepower put strain on a tranny but the gears put strain on the outputshaft...
the 4.0 SOHC is rev happy and can make very nice power in the upper ranges. they do seem alittle sluggish down low. probably from the extra weight of the S197 car
3.8's don't breath heavily like the 4.0 does stock that's why 4.10's are not really needed on a stock 3.8.
heavily ported and a big cam sure the 3.8 needs 4.10's
too much gear may not hurt but there is a point where it won't help either.
everybody who advocates 4.10's on a stock or bolt-on or stock engine blown 3.8. here is one question
why not just go 4.56's or 5.13's and if you say no then explain why
for 4.0SOHC 4.10's are a nice gear for that engine even stock. it's a completely different animal than the 3.8
on a 4.0 you mileage will drop. anybody that thinks it won't need to take Physics. depending on driving style you may see a 4-6 or more mpg drop on the highway over long trips
4.10's will give a slight advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73's in the 4.0 because the 4.0 has a damn nice top end. 4.10's in the 3.8 however offer no advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73 on a stock or near stock engine. i know i learned from having both gears in my car along with the stock 2.73's and a nice set of 3.45's
if you plan on adding nitrous forget using the Ford T-lok. they are weak and are know to spit spyder gears out faster than a meth junkie. also the clutch packs wear out fast. i replaced 2 sets on my old T-lok and the slippage was probably the reason it never blew. there were serious chips out of the spyder gears though and the T-lok housing showing light hairline cracks.
get a Detroit Truetrac differential. they will make that 7.5 handle just about anything you throw at it. TA performance makes a Girdel for the 7.5 but i believe it won't clear the Panhard rod on your car. i understand that if you contact TA they will make a low profile girdle for you to clear the panhard rod
how much does a truetrac run about?
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,618
From:
RE: gears
ORIGINAL: blackv6
what kind of difference are we talking about between the 4:10 and the 3:73 in the quarter mile? and speaking of physics, shouldnt the 3:73 consume more fuel than the stockers but consume less then the 4:10's? and shouldn't the 4:10's produce faster acceleration, but lower top speed than the 3:73's or is the top speed such a miniscule number to even be concerned with? (reason being i found 3:73's used, no cracks or anything for $25. (+$19 shipping)
how much does a truetrac run about?
ORIGINAL: cobra232
go 4.10's
the 4.0 SOHC is rev happy and can make very nice power in the upper ranges. they do seem alittle sluggish down low. probably from the extra weight of the S197 car
3.8's don't breath heavily like the 4.0 does stock that's why 4.10's are not really needed on a stock 3.8.
heavily ported and a big cam sure the 3.8 needs 4.10's
too much gear may not hurt but there is a point where it won't help either.
everybody who advocates 4.10's on a stock or bolt-on or stock engine blown 3.8. here is one question
why not just go 4.56's or 5.13's and if you say no then explain why
for 4.0SOHC 4.10's are a nice gear for that engine even stock. it's a completely different animal than the 3.8
on a 4.0 you mileage will drop. anybody that thinks it won't need to take Physics. depending on driving style you may see a 4-6 or more mpg drop on the highway over long trips
4.10's will give a slight advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73's in the 4.0 because the 4.0 has a damn nice top end. 4.10's in the 3.8 however offer no advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73 on a stock or near stock engine. i know i learned from having both gears in my car along with the stock 2.73's and a nice set of 3.45's
if you plan on adding nitrous forget using the Ford T-lok. they are weak and are know to spit spyder gears out faster than a meth junkie. also the clutch packs wear out fast. i replaced 2 sets on my old T-lok and the slippage was probably the reason it never blew. there were serious chips out of the spyder gears though and the T-lok housing showing light hairline cracks.
get a Detroit Truetrac differential. they will make that 7.5 handle just about anything you throw at it. TA performance makes a Girdel for the 7.5 but i believe it won't clear the Panhard rod on your car. i understand that if you contact TA they will make a low profile girdle for you to clear the panhard rod
ORIGINAL: blackv6
are all these posts refrencing only the older mustangs (older i mean before current 05-06 bodystyle) i currently have an 06 mustang v6 with only a steeda drop in, and magnaflow exhaust. i am going to get the steeda cold air and ecu tune but i will AFTER i get the gears. I have heard the 05-06-07 mustang does not come with a limited slip. is this true? i had my mind set on 4.10's and a ford racing T-lok and install them together( rev xtreme in tampa quoted $300 for install alone is this correct?) Ford racing has a gearset Part Number M-4209-L373 that appears to be for a 7.5 rear end.. but does that mean ALL 7.5's?
this is my first FR car. i had a wrx and when i changed the gearset i needed to change the on in the tranny too (4wd) so now i am taking full advantage of the ability for cheap acceleration w/o too much horse power.
it appears the question is just a debate between 3.73 and 4.10's i have a few questions...
1) which is better for the daily driver?
2) which is better for gas mileage?
3) which provides better 1/4 mile times? by how much (about)
4) which is better for a vehicle with little/no modifications? (intake/headers/exhaust)
5) which is better for a vehicle with some modifications? (blower/nos)
i always thought the actual horsepower put strain on a tranny but the gears put strain on the outputshaft...
are all these posts refrencing only the older mustangs (older i mean before current 05-06 bodystyle) i currently have an 06 mustang v6 with only a steeda drop in, and magnaflow exhaust. i am going to get the steeda cold air and ecu tune but i will AFTER i get the gears. I have heard the 05-06-07 mustang does not come with a limited slip. is this true? i had my mind set on 4.10's and a ford racing T-lok and install them together( rev xtreme in tampa quoted $300 for install alone is this correct?) Ford racing has a gearset Part Number M-4209-L373 that appears to be for a 7.5 rear end.. but does that mean ALL 7.5's?
this is my first FR car. i had a wrx and when i changed the gearset i needed to change the on in the tranny too (4wd) so now i am taking full advantage of the ability for cheap acceleration w/o too much horse power.
it appears the question is just a debate between 3.73 and 4.10's i have a few questions...
1) which is better for the daily driver?
2) which is better for gas mileage?
3) which provides better 1/4 mile times? by how much (about)
4) which is better for a vehicle with little/no modifications? (intake/headers/exhaust)
5) which is better for a vehicle with some modifications? (blower/nos)
i always thought the actual horsepower put strain on a tranny but the gears put strain on the outputshaft...
the 4.0 SOHC is rev happy and can make very nice power in the upper ranges. they do seem alittle sluggish down low. probably from the extra weight of the S197 car
3.8's don't breath heavily like the 4.0 does stock that's why 4.10's are not really needed on a stock 3.8.
heavily ported and a big cam sure the 3.8 needs 4.10's
too much gear may not hurt but there is a point where it won't help either.
everybody who advocates 4.10's on a stock or bolt-on or stock engine blown 3.8. here is one question
why not just go 4.56's or 5.13's and if you say no then explain why
for 4.0SOHC 4.10's are a nice gear for that engine even stock. it's a completely different animal than the 3.8
on a 4.0 you mileage will drop. anybody that thinks it won't need to take Physics. depending on driving style you may see a 4-6 or more mpg drop on the highway over long trips
4.10's will give a slight advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73's in the 4.0 because the 4.0 has a damn nice top end. 4.10's in the 3.8 however offer no advantage in the 1/4 over 3.73 on a stock or near stock engine. i know i learned from having both gears in my car along with the stock 2.73's and a nice set of 3.45's
if you plan on adding nitrous forget using the Ford T-lok. they are weak and are know to spit spyder gears out faster than a meth junkie. also the clutch packs wear out fast. i replaced 2 sets on my old T-lok and the slippage was probably the reason it never blew. there were serious chips out of the spyder gears though and the T-lok housing showing light hairline cracks.
get a Detroit Truetrac differential. they will make that 7.5 handle just about anything you throw at it. TA performance makes a Girdel for the 7.5 but i believe it won't clear the Panhard rod on your car. i understand that if you contact TA they will make a low profile girdle for you to clear the panhard rod
how much does a truetrac run about?
1st Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 76
From:
RE: gears
i just got off the phone with a friend of mine who builds 8 second cars on a monthly basis... he said since i am driving the car to work every day, i should get the 3.73's. 4.10's are for little street use and lots of track. besides the 4.10 isnt practical in the tampa area that has a red light at nearly every intersection.
this seems logical to me... any oponions?
do the gears for the 7.5 rear end for the 05-06 mustang match the 7.5 rear end for the earlier body styles?
this seems logical to me... any oponions?
do the gears for the 7.5 rear end for the 05-06 mustang match the 7.5 rear end for the earlier body styles?