Hard (Initial) Starting 3.8L
Hey,
So my girlfriends ride (stock '98 3.8L) has had a hard start problem when she hasn't driven it for a little while (couple hours). When she turns the key it takes about 5-10 seconds for the engine to kick in and start to purrrr. Once its running, it rides great. No problems that she's told me about. The starter is spinning fine and doesn't sound like its grinding or anything. Once she gets it started the first time, it starts right up each time after that. So she can let the car sit for a couple hours and try to start it up. After 5-10 seconds it will start. She can then shut it down and try to start it again and it starts right up. No driving around or engine warm up required.
This has been going on for about 6 months or so and I can't figure out whats going on. It doesn't matter if its 80 degrees or 50 degrees. Same problem. I've tested the battery and it has the proper voltage per the service manuals tests. I've replaced the spark plugs, air filter (w/ a new K&N filter) and the inline fuel filter. Run a tank with Fuel Injector Cleaner, and another with Marvel Mystic Oil. The problem still hasn't gone away, or gotten any better/worse. Even tried turning the key to the first stop, waiting for a couple seconds (to let the fuel system prime) and then turn the key to ignition and it still takes 5-10 seconds to start...
Could it be a bad fuel pump? The starter? Distributer? Any ideas would be great... I'd hate to have to take it into a dealer/shop to fix something that I could potentially fix myself... Thanks alot for any help you guys can give...
So my girlfriends ride (stock '98 3.8L) has had a hard start problem when she hasn't driven it for a little while (couple hours). When she turns the key it takes about 5-10 seconds for the engine to kick in and start to purrrr. Once its running, it rides great. No problems that she's told me about. The starter is spinning fine and doesn't sound like its grinding or anything. Once she gets it started the first time, it starts right up each time after that. So she can let the car sit for a couple hours and try to start it up. After 5-10 seconds it will start. She can then shut it down and try to start it again and it starts right up. No driving around or engine warm up required.
This has been going on for about 6 months or so and I can't figure out whats going on. It doesn't matter if its 80 degrees or 50 degrees. Same problem. I've tested the battery and it has the proper voltage per the service manuals tests. I've replaced the spark plugs, air filter (w/ a new K&N filter) and the inline fuel filter. Run a tank with Fuel Injector Cleaner, and another with Marvel Mystic Oil. The problem still hasn't gone away, or gotten any better/worse. Even tried turning the key to the first stop, waiting for a couple seconds (to let the fuel system prime) and then turn the key to ignition and it still takes 5-10 seconds to start...
Could it be a bad fuel pump? The starter? Distributer? Any ideas would be great... I'd hate to have to take it into a dealer/shop to fix something that I could potentially fix myself... Thanks alot for any help you guys can give...
First thing to try is when you go to start it cold, cycle the key a few time to bring fuel pressure up, if it starts right away, then you are having a leak down issue with the fuel pump. If it still does not I would check the maf for contamination, I see you have a new K&N, did you oil it before the problems started and not let it dry 24hrs, then you more than likely oiled the maf and it needs cleaning. Just a few thoughts.
ORIGINAL: Archion
First thing to try is when you go to start it cold, cycle the key a few time to bring fuel pressure up, if it starts right away, then you are having a leak down issue with the fuel pump. If it still does not I would check the maf for contamination, I see you have a new K&N, did you oil it before the problems started and not let it dry 24hrs, then you more than likely oiled the maf and it needs cleaning. Just a few thoughts.
First thing to try is when you go to start it cold, cycle the key a few time to bring fuel pressure up, if it starts right away, then you are having a leak down issue with the fuel pump. If it still does not I would check the maf for contamination, I see you have a new K&N, did you oil it before the problems started and not let it dry 24hrs, then you more than likely oiled the maf and it needs cleaning. Just a few thoughts.
The K&N filter was brand new, so I didn't have to do any oiling. When I replaced it, I did take note of the mass air flow sensor and it appeared to be clean. Just for sng's, I'll take another look at it and see what condition its in now (been about 5k miles). How do I clean one of these sensors? I always thought they were a "replace when dirty" part. Thanks again...
If it is a fuel pump leakdown, you will have to replace the pump, there is a checkvalve in the pump assy. that is supposed to keep static pressure on the lines, and the fact that the single KOEO pump pulse is not pressurizing the system properly is a sign of a weak pump. As far as the MAF, they can be cleaned. CRC now makes a MAF cleaning spray, It is a specialized electronics cleaner, just a little bit harsher, but not much. If you can not get the MAF cleaner, get the CRC small electronics cleaner, it's close enough to do the job. Both should be available at your local parts store, I actually had to go to a ricer store to get mine... You will also need a t-20 torx security bit to take apart the MAF, that and a steady hand...lol. It is actually good to clean the MAF about every 6 months, keeps the power and fuel economy up. The first time I cleaned it, it was oiled, The butt dyno showed a noticable improvement, and over the next two tanks I averaged 4 more mpg.
ORIGINAL: Archion
If it is a fuel pump leakdown, you will have to replace the pump, there is a checkvalve in the pump assy. that is supposed to keep static pressure on the lines, and the fact that the single KOEO pump pulse is not pressurizing the system properly is a sign of a weak pump. As far as the MAF, they can be cleaned. CRC now makes a MAF cleaning spray, It is a specialized electronics cleaner, just a little bit harsher, but not much. If you can not get the MAF cleaner, get the CRC small electronics cleaner, it's close enough to do the job. Both should be available at your local parts store, I actually had to go to a ricer store to get mine... You will also need a t-20 torx security bit to take apart the MAF, that and a steady hand...lol. It is actually good to clean the MAF about every 6 months, keeps the power and fuel economy up. The first time I cleaned it, it was oiled, The butt dyno showed a noticable improvement, and over the next two tanks I averaged 4 more mpg.
If it is a fuel pump leakdown, you will have to replace the pump, there is a checkvalve in the pump assy. that is supposed to keep static pressure on the lines, and the fact that the single KOEO pump pulse is not pressurizing the system properly is a sign of a weak pump. As far as the MAF, they can be cleaned. CRC now makes a MAF cleaning spray, It is a specialized electronics cleaner, just a little bit harsher, but not much. If you can not get the MAF cleaner, get the CRC small electronics cleaner, it's close enough to do the job. Both should be available at your local parts store, I actually had to go to a ricer store to get mine... You will also need a t-20 torx security bit to take apart the MAF, that and a steady hand...lol. It is actually good to clean the MAF about every 6 months, keeps the power and fuel economy up. The first time I cleaned it, it was oiled, The butt dyno showed a noticable improvement, and over the next two tanks I averaged 4 more mpg.
ORIGINAL: 00raging stang
if it is the fuel pump how much would it be after the labor and everything?
if it is the fuel pump how much would it be after the labor and everything?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dragonus18
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
8
Sep 9, 2015 01:21 AM




