so the shiftkit came in earlier today and it seems pretty easy to isntall. its the transgo and it def will take more ten 10minutes to isntall for those of you who were curious. it comes with the parts to improve the downshifts for the most part and keep it shifting smoothly for upshifts. it has a few directions for helping to stiffen up the tranny's durability but the transmission has to be apart for that. I'll just be installing the actual shift kit parts. Mostly just some drilling and widening of holes, and replacing of springs. Now, obviously to get to the underside of the trannym i have to drain it, so my question is how much fluid is gonna come out/how much am I gonna need to replace? I want to make sure i have a big enough container ready. I'm not draining the torque converter, just the tranny so i can pull of the whatever plate. Thanks in advance guys. I'm gonna start on the project tmw but getting some B&M trick shift fluid from the store, then i'll put the car up on jacks and begin the days project. If you all want me to like document with pics, i'll make a quick PDF file and post it too.

 

yeah man do it i am considering buying the B&M hammer shift kit .

 

well i recently did a clutch for my car.. and i drained the transmisson and put more fluid into it. threre are 2 plugs on the passanger side (square headed) and you take the bottom one out to empty and the top one out to fill(after you put the bottom one back in) there isnt going to be 4 gallons of fluid pouring out of the tranny, so dont worry about having a big enough bucket. if youve got an oil change container it will work fine. but as far as the rest of the stuff like putting the shift kit in and all the springs and stuff.. cant help ya on that one

 

Umm, you are aware that there is no such thing as a shift kit for a manual, since there is no valve body or shift solenoids?

Now for some helpful information. Consult your owners manual, it list all the capacities. I would recommend starting at 3-4 and then crank the car, run it through the gears, long enough for each gear to engage, and then check it again. I think you have to check it running with the car in park, but it will say that in the owner's manual too. Add fluid 1/2 a quart at a time and repaet until the level is satisfactory.

Read the instruction 2-3 times before starting the job too. If you have never done one before it is extremely easy to do a lot of damage.

If there is any drilling of the plates (thin metal plates between valve bodies) set the plate on a piece of 2x4 before drilling and go very slow with light pressure.

BTW a new valve body is around $700.

Don't be scared to do it though, if you are technically proficient, then it'll be a lot easier than you think, just be cautious.

Ryan

 

well, i ende up only beign able to drill the new holes.lol. to get the sprigns and accumulators, you need a special tool that i dont have. so monday I'll be going to get it professionally installed. it took me 4hours to get the pan off, pull off the valve body and plate, then drill the holes, replace valve body, install new filter, replace pan and gasket, and fill back up. ended uyp being about 9-10 quarts drained. I have a baseline for 0-60 run and im not gonna make another 0-60 after the install and i'll let you all know the difference later. but to all the guys thinking about doing this, have it professionally done unless you have a lot of patience and a snap-ring tool. lol, there is a lot of bolts to mess pull off so be careful not to confuse them, kind of hard to but wow...anyway, i'll keep you all updated.

 

Snap ring pliers are pretty cheap at the auto parts store, a lot cheaper than paying to have it done. Give it try man, you already did the hardest part.

Ryan