Well if u remember me and two other people on here were havin a problem with our cars loosing power and idling rough. I had replaced my plug wire, my coil pack and very thoroughly cleaned out my idle control valve. This seemed to fix the problem perfectly. Today was diff tho, its been about 2 weeks now and it started it again. I gave my car some gas while cruising down the road and my rpms went to about 2800 then it started to skip and misfire, i was almost home so i pulled in and played with the car for about 5 min and ended up quitting cause the idle had dropped so low that it was idling at about 300 and it finally shut off. About 30 min later i cranked it back up and drove it around but soon had the same thing happen exept it never cut off.
whats next, fuel pump?
injectors?
how should i go about checkin them?

 

About the only way is fuel pressure. You need a gauge to connect to the shrader valve then fire it up and watch the gauge. It should stay about the same from an idle to high rpms. If it drops with higher rpms you need a pump. They also make a little tester for the injectors so you can see if they are getting a pulse. Sorry but I don't know what the pressure should be off hand.

 

Could be the fuel pump or the fuel filter. Do you change the filter often? And what kind of spark plugs are you using? I suggest motor craft, I had some other ones I bought from O'rielys but they were colder plugs and they were giving me misses. My car still acts a little funny but the idle isnt as ruff as before.

 

this doesnt sound like a fuel pump issue.. he said is rpms drop down to 300.. do they stay there or does it jump up and down up and down means the engine is struggling to get fuel.. holding at 300 means it could be a whole different problem. id check to make sure all your vacuum lines are connected

 

i dont think it is a vaccume line, as the car gets hotter it just gets worse and wont handle as high of rpm's. Basically it starts loosing power and stipin/misfiring at about 2500 rpms under a load, then it just gets worse from there till rock bottom when i am idlin at 300 and the car shuts off. If it was a vaccume line then it would do it cold
it was the first hot day today for about a week so i think thats why it was actin up plus my engine was a lil hot cause it had about 30 miles on it

 

you said that the problem was cured for two weeks, and that you only cleaned out the IAC, it's possible that you weren't able to clean it well and the thing is sticking again. but at this point you are just throwing money at it and it may be more cost effective to take it somewhere and get it fixed. good luck and keep us posted.

 

its not the fuel pump, cause the pressre is fine. It was cured 4 like 2 weeks but it also hasnt been as hot (weather) but today it was really hot here, at least 95 in the sun
It seemed like the IAC worked fine it just had a lil carbon build up but u are right it still could be that
I already tried takin it somewhere, they said 90% electrical so thats why i redid it all but they are cluless, they didnt give up i just took the car back home
How do i check the injectors and how can i cycle the IAC to see if it is sticking???

 

I checked pressure at the Shrader Valve, this would only diagnose a fuel pump correct, it was a steady 30-32 psi, is there ne thing else i could eliminate as not being the problem

 

actually a problem with heat would point to fuel pump, had the same problem in a ford van when it was hot the damn thing would sputter and cut out, but if the tank was nearly full (hence pump can't get as hot), and it was cool outside the pump would be fine. i bet it's the fuel pump.

 

does the problem occur with lower amount of fuel in the tank?