I don't understand why some would need clearancing and some wouldn't, maybe something to do with the year of the block being made different. As for the crank if you get a used one you need to have it turned.

 

hmmm. I guess I'll just buy a new one to save the hassle.

Since my engine is pretty lowe mileage (64k), if I were to do my internals soon, would I need to have my block honed and bored out and all that good stuff, or would it be fine to leave it as is?

 

It's not required, however..............it would be a wise decision.

 

It would at least should be honed and if you are going to all that work (and expense) make sure to get the rotating assy balanced.

 

alright, so if I were to take it in to get honed, what all do I take with me? Do I just strip the top of the block pretty much, or what? I should probably go look in my haynes manual, I read something in there about honing cylinders.

What about overboring? Would that be worth it, or does it have no effect other than if your cylinder walls are damaged?

 

Do a search for 4.2L swap and look for my posts. There are oil pan changes that happend, you need the 01-04 pan and a few other things, but it's basics...nothing too major.

 

thanks, I'll take a look at those. I may juts go with the 4.3 Long Rod Stroker from ssm. Looks like a good kit, and comes with pretty much the same stuff for the same price. Are there any problems with that kit, or is it a good one to go with? Thats the one I'm leaning towards ATM, since it requires no clearancing.

Also, what compression pistons should I run? The procharger uses like 11psi, and it says good for anything like 9:1 and below I belive. So, should I go 9:1 or 8:1. If I go 8:1, could I run more boost than say with 9:1, or would it be best to run it at 9:1?

 

Don't buy from rpm-mustangs.com! Look at my last post for the reason why. "I need some help!"