Squeaking brakes question?
Well I brang in the stang again to the dealership for more work and one of them was because the brakes were sqeaking, so they said that the brakes were just changed like 500 miles ago and that its part of the break in period is this true?[/align]
I always do my own brake work, and I have never heard of such a thing as a "break-in" period, nor have I ever heard a squeak. sometimes I get metallic pads, sometimes I get regular pads. I never buy that stupid anti squeak, because I simply don't get squeak... but you might try some.
Disk brakes are so simple and when put together correctly operate just fine. The new pads usually "seat" quickly.
But for peace of mind:
Next time you go out to the car before you drive off run your finger along the rotor. (Don't do after heavy braking. the rotors are stilla little warm to the touch.) After some miles there might be a little profiling.. some slight smooth grooving that feel like ripples. Those are usually okay but can usually be turned (machined) out. (Some people don't like ANY uneveness on their rotors... that's being safe, no criticism from me!) But large grooves or uneven pad wear needs to be fixed. If you had your brakes done by someone maybe because you don't bother with them be careful of a shop that slaps new pads on a wheel with bad rotors. The bad rotors will machine down the pads quickly causing them to fail prematurely. Pads with 1/8" material left (before the rivets or backer plate) should be replaced immediately. Rotors can be checked by auto parts store that will turn them to determine if there is sufficient material remaining for them to be turned. If not, buy their (new) rotor.
best of luck to you
Disk brakes are so simple and when put together correctly operate just fine. The new pads usually "seat" quickly.
But for peace of mind:
Next time you go out to the car before you drive off run your finger along the rotor. (Don't do after heavy braking. the rotors are stilla little warm to the touch.) After some miles there might be a little profiling.. some slight smooth grooving that feel like ripples. Those are usually okay but can usually be turned (machined) out. (Some people don't like ANY uneveness on their rotors... that's being safe, no criticism from me!) But large grooves or uneven pad wear needs to be fixed. If you had your brakes done by someone maybe because you don't bother with them be careful of a shop that slaps new pads on a wheel with bad rotors. The bad rotors will machine down the pads quickly causing them to fail prematurely. Pads with 1/8" material left (before the rivets or backer plate) should be replaced immediately. Rotors can be checked by auto parts store that will turn them to determine if there is sufficient material remaining for them to be turned. If not, buy their (new) rotor.
best of luck to you
hahah.. break-in period my ***... u shouldnt hear squeaking sounds, especially if they're "new" breaks.. ford dealerships rip u off... what did u pay to have it "looked at," $89.00? dont take it to a ford, take it to a local mom-n-pop shop.. they have the same license as the mechanics at ford, but charge CHEAPER.. good luck.. and follow dude's advice up there^^^^^^^^^^
There is no "break-in period" but there is a proper procedure to get the new pads seated correctly. ANY reputable brake place would either do it for you or tell you how to do it. Improper seating can cause glazing of the pad surface. That glazing can cause squeals.
First thing you need to do is figure out if the squeal is coming from the pad-caliper contact, or pad-to-rotor contact. If you have Motorcraft pads on the car, then it's probably pad-to-rotor squeal. Meaning your new pads are glazed from improper seating. OEM pads have shims tacked onto the back of the pad that would pretty much eliminate the pad-to-caliper squeal.
Best way to fix pad-to-rotorsqueal is to take the pads off and use an 80-100 grit sandpaper on the surface of the pad. You want to sand at a 90 degree angle to the way the rotor spins against the pad. You'll notice the pads are really shiney before you sand them, that's the glaze. After you put the pads back on, you want to seat them.
Best way is to use moderate breaking pressure to stop from a speed of 30mph. Do this 5-10 times. Then do the same for 45 mph to a stop. The seating allows the pads surface to wear into the rotor surface. It will also allow the pads to get snugged back into the calipers.
BTW anyone that feels the seating is BS too should tell that to Brembo, Hawking, Raybestos, and every other pad manufacturer out there as well as reputable brake shops.
First thing you need to do is figure out if the squeal is coming from the pad-caliper contact, or pad-to-rotor contact. If you have Motorcraft pads on the car, then it's probably pad-to-rotor squeal. Meaning your new pads are glazed from improper seating. OEM pads have shims tacked onto the back of the pad that would pretty much eliminate the pad-to-caliper squeal.
Best way to fix pad-to-rotorsqueal is to take the pads off and use an 80-100 grit sandpaper on the surface of the pad. You want to sand at a 90 degree angle to the way the rotor spins against the pad. You'll notice the pads are really shiney before you sand them, that's the glaze. After you put the pads back on, you want to seat them.
Best way is to use moderate breaking pressure to stop from a speed of 30mph. Do this 5-10 times. Then do the same for 45 mph to a stop. The seating allows the pads surface to wear into the rotor surface. It will also allow the pads to get snugged back into the calipers.
BTW anyone that feels the seating is BS too should tell that to Brembo, Hawking, Raybestos, and every other pad manufacturer out there as well as reputable brake shops.
The Break in period is properly seating the pads. There is a fast and easy way to do it too. You'll need to scuff your pads since it sounds like they may be glazed already.
Start off by getting up to 20 mph and gently apply the brakes until the car comes to a complete stop
Repeat at 40 mph and 60 mph being gentle on the brakes each time.
About an hour of city driving will have them heat treated and properly seated.
I do this with every brake job I've done, be it stangs modded stangs, F250's with 12" lifts, stock pickups, all the way to little imports. There is apropper procedure, and just because you've done a lot of brake work, doesn't mean you've been doing it right.
Ryan
Start off by getting up to 20 mph and gently apply the brakes until the car comes to a complete stop
Repeat at 40 mph and 60 mph being gentle on the brakes each time.
About an hour of city driving will have them heat treated and properly seated.
I do this with every brake job I've done, be it stangs modded stangs, F250's with 12" lifts, stock pickups, all the way to little imports. There is apropper procedure, and just because you've done a lot of brake work, doesn't mean you've been doing it right.
Ryan
lol, no, I was just backing your point more or less. I didn't read your post since I, as well as many of us, know that some people in here occaisionally know what we're talking about lol, ya ****** tard 
Ryan

Ryan
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