Hi,

I have a 97 (3.8L) V6 that has been given me problems for quite some time now. I bought it brand new in November of 96, and it has held up surprisingly well for almost 11 years. About 3 years ago, I had a mechanic friend of the family work on the car, and ever since then, there is a beeping noise at startup that no one has been able to answer for me; not even the Ford company and it has been happening ever since the check engine light came on. The beeps are in groups of 5, and last for 5 cycles, and happens only at startup. Last year I had a new transmission put in and they assured me this would fix the Check Engine light coming on, but of course it didn't.The only error code through diagnostics is 1443 Emissions Control Purge Valve. Just recently, I had the suspension completely overhauled with original Motocraft parts. The rank and pinion steering I want to get rebuilt, but am wondering if I should just buy a new one with all new bushings.

So, to sum up...

1. Why does this beeping happen at startup?
2. Because the suspension has been completely redone, is it necessary to have the rack and pinion replaced?
A. If it should be replaced, would a rebuilt for $100.00 or a new one non AM for $200.00 be better

This is my first post, and I apologize that it is a long one. Any direct answers or suggestions relevant to the fixing of the car would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a mil
Aaron out of DFW

 

1.) Don't know about the beeping on startup, I'd have to actually see it to give an opinion. If it is your Emissions Control Purge Valve causing the problem, then get it changed. Either the sensor is faulty, the valve is cloged, worn, or faulty, or both the sensor and valve are faulty. In short, just get a new valve and sensor.

2.) I don't think it's something you'd absolutly need to get rebuilt, however, it wouldn't be a bad idea either.

 

+1 on the beeping problem. On the rack I wouldn't touch it unless it's leaking or feels sloppy and then I'd buy a new one.

 

Much appreciate the info. The check engine light is now off and i finally was able to get it inspected! The valve and sensor had to be replaced, but this is minor compared to the amount i have put into the suspension.

Thanks again!

P.S. Nice ride by the way. Even with a few more grand mine wouldn't come close to comparing

 

I kind of need to explain why i even thought about replacing the rack and pinion...

When i say i had the suspension redone, i mean everything: control arms, sway bar, I and O tire rods, struts, the mounting plates for the struts, and a linkage kit that ties into the sway bar and control arms. All of the bushings were replaced of course, and i just went back with the original motor craft parts.

I had it aligned and it still pulled to the right enough to change lanes smoothly doing 70mph, so I bought new Yokohama YK520's all around, since the old tires were worn uneven...

Still it pulled to the right so I had the shop realign it with the new tires...

Now, when i'm doing 60-70mph, the car slightly moves side to side and its hard to keep an even line...

It feels like the r and p is moving when i'm not moving the steering wheel. I was told it is because the r an p is old with old bushings, and this will make the steering slightly move, which is more noticeable at faster speeds obviously.

Although the car handles well, if i kick it up to 85+, it starts to get hard to control the steering...

So, this is why I asked about the rack and pinion. I know this is alot and hard to TS without driving it, but any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks a mil