I've seen the tech article on using the 96-98s. Sounded like some potential grinding and what not would be needed, which sounded like more hassle than I wanted to deal with.

The BBK's were only $270 w/ free shipping which wouldn't be too bad if I can get them installed myself. Long tubes would require the replacement of the Y-pipe (not sure that's what it is called) as well, and since that is where the catalysts are, I'm betting that gets real expensive. And like I said, I'm not looking for performance gains, just the ability to drive it in the winter without the exhaust choking me. If I can get a little more HP and MPG, all the better.

Back to the purpose of the thread, I think my next step will be to take off the Y-pipe. That should get me some more room underneath to work with.

Since this is a common problem with these models, I was hoping to get some advice from those who have replaced them. Even if you've just put in 96'ers, you must have had to do more or less the same task.

 

yeah just watch who you buy them from, i bought a set off a 94 and i was told they were in GREAT condition... i got them 2.5 MONTHS LATER! and they are warped and in awful condition. the passenger side leaks so much at the heads im thinking of taking it off and putting my cracked stocker on till i can find another passenger side.

 

Neo I have a set of stockers. Name your price with shipping.

 

You wasted your 270$ , you could also mate long tubes to your Y if you really wanted to.

 

when i replaced my stockers for LTs, i dont remember having a problem getting them out from the car, did you take off the air intake hoses to have better access to the headers? i cant remember if i pulled them out from the top or the bottoms to be honest, but maybe something to try is to jack the whole engine up a few inches maybe that will help, thats how we got a set of BBK shorties out of my buddies 91 5.0

 

Wow some definite ball busting here... Anyways I did get BBK headers too to replace cracked stock headers.

For replacing the drivers side, I completely removed the h-pipe like you said, not hard just another two bolts more than u already have to take off and you have to unplug the oxygen sensors (this was kinda a pain). Also, I'm assuming you took the dipstick out too. Then its not that bad. They are definitely shaped differently than the stock pipes and I just wasted time before giving in and accepting I had to take off the h-pipe.

For replacing the passengers side, I don't remember it being that bad other than having to take off the egr pipe completely, but mine wasn't rusted badly and stuck or anything. This is came out and went in from the top.

Hope this helps

PS there is also a guide here
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/musta...rs-install.pdf

 

the driver side seems to have bolted up and fits right so im just going to wait till i see a single passenger side on ebay and snag it plus im looking for a 94-98 v6 header not our headerish POS lol

 

Well I could get you one of those too. Just have to make the hour long trip to the mustang only salvage yard.

 

i actually got one of those about 5 miles from me but yeah i MAY not have to replace it, the leak is smaller than it was before so I'm thinking if i over torque it and then run a few heat cycles back off the bolts and torque it again a few times i may be able to conform the header to the engine and get it nearly sealed up. worth a try anyways.

i was actually able to replace both from the top on the engine bay in about 30 seconds each side so it can be done just gota know how to turn the headers