V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs Technical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters

Suspension questions!

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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #21  
Shaunmac9128's Avatar
Shaunmac9128
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Those tips are like against the bumper, close.
Old Jul 18, 2010 | 09:34 PM
  #22  
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ayrton02
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Good choice w/the jack and stands. Before you do anything, take the lining out of the trunk with the car on the ground (it's easier.. duh). However you'll want to place your jackstands on the sub-frame rails instead of the axle. Make sure to block the front wheels first! Here's an illustration:

*edit* The arrow is pointing a lil too far on the back of the sub-frame rail. It wouldn't be too smart to lower the car on that bend. So put the stands on the rail... the stands should be between the muffler and lower control arm. It's ok if one side of the top of the jackstand is on/very close to the lower control arm.



The reason for this is so that the rear suspension will be "free" (uncompressed/no load). This will allow you to place the jack under the differential and compress the rear suspension.

- Set e-brake, block front wheels, jack car up and place on jackstands (sub-frame rails)
- Remove rear wheels
- Place jack under the CENTER of the differential and jack until the rear suspension compresses a couple of inches.
- Take another pair of jackstands and place them under the axle for back-up in case the jack fails (don't lower the axle onto these, just place and extend - they are for a back-up only).
- Take the top mounting nuts off from both of the shocks (accessible from the trunk). - Now remove the back-up jackstands. Slowly lower the differential until the tops of the shocks exit the mounting hole in the trunk.
- Take back-up jackstands, but this time lower the rear axle onto them. Remove the lower shock mounting bolts. Now the shocks are free!
- Install is essentially the reverse of removal.

I'm sure I left something minor out, but that's the jest of it. Check the write-ups for more detailed info. Good luck. If ya need help, just holler back here and one of us will be able to walk you through it.

Last edited by ayrton02; Jul 18, 2010 at 09:47 PM.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 12:49 AM
  #23  
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After I replaced them last time, I started having trouble with steering...need some caster/camber plates?
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 02:05 PM
  #24  
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The rear shocks can be done easily with the car on the ground.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 05:21 PM
  #25  
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Shaunmac9128
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Can you elaborate how you take the shocks out easily without lifting the car or taking off the wheels?...
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #26  
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^ x2. Im a small guy and I can't get under my car without it being lifted a little.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 07:57 PM
  #27  
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ayrton02
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Originally Posted by pyroone
After I replaced them last time, I started having trouble with steering...need some caster/camber plates?
Unless you've lowered the car, no. You probably just need an alignment. Go to a reputable alignment shop and they should set you up.
Old Jul 20, 2010 | 07:15 AM
  #28  
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compdude97
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Originally Posted by Shaunmac9128
Can you elaborate how you take the shocks out easily without lifting the car or taking off the wheels?...
With a lowered car it would be a little more difficult, but unless you lowered it a ton still shouldn't be a problem, you just reach under the car and undo the lower bolts, then undo the upper bolts in the trunk and pull the shock off. Install is reverse. It is really quite simple, I haven't jacked up the car the last 2 times I did rear shocks, and I am not skinny and my car is lowered about an inch, still have plenty of room to reach everything.

An impact wrench makes it easier, but not needed, and even if you lift the car there is zero reason to remove the tires.
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