*Stay around 350rwhp.

Boost is only a measure of restriction, so no real answer could be given... Unless you want a guess.

 

i make 276 rwhp on 6PSI with a turbo and slipping clutch. i think 350 should be doable with a 4.2 and 10 PSI. just make sure your clutch holds.

 

Yes, and don't go passed 15lbs on a stock block. It's not worth it to push it that hard if you lower end can't handle it. You should hit your goal if you get a nice pair of heads(ported, bigger valves, find a good local shop) decent cam, nothing to wild, I bet you would hit the 350hp to the ground mark. A rear end would be needed to get the ponies to the pavement.

 

Boost is a measure of pressure, not restriction, measured in Pounds Per Square Inch, (PSI). Its not about the amount of pounds you run, but more of the pressure inside the cyl. I'm not sure how much horsepower stock internals can run safely, cause I come from the Honda game. They run up to 500hp on stock 1.6L sleeves, so I think fords can handle the power you want to make. With FI setups it is all about tuning and fuel delivery. The more power and timing you run, the more sensitive it will be to detonation, which even a bad tank of gas can ruin a motor. 9.2 to 1 comp, is low enough, the lower you go, the slower the motor will be getting to that boost. Ive seen cars with 12:1 comp run boost safely for years..those are fun setups cause they make alot of power with little boost. If the poster above makes almost 300 on 6psi, then 10-12 pounds should be enough if it can breathe properly.

 

Yeah. My main reason for asking for boost levels was so when piecing most likely a turbo kit together what kind of wastegate to get. And I guess if I go the centri blower route, what size pulleys to get.

And if my memory server me correctly...which it rarely does...there's a limit to how much boost (PSI) the composite Windstar upper I'm running can handle. Anyone?

 

Boost is a measure of restriction, which is why when you port and polish cylinder heads the same car unchanged goes from 12psi to 10psi but makes more or equal power.

 

yes when you are measuring boost pressure it is the amount of air not going into your engine but in stead is pushing against the inside of the piping. which is the pressure of the restriction.

 

DO YOU SEE THIS, WE AGREE ON SOMETHING...

*this is unheard of*

 

I took this right from Wikipedia:

In the automotive world, boost refers to the increase in pressure that is generated by the turbocharger in the intake manifold that exceeds normal atmospheric pressure. Atmospheric pressure is approximately 14.7 psi or 1.0 bar, and anything above this level is considered to be boost. The level of boost may be shown on a pressure gauge, usually in bar, psi or possibly kPa. This is representative of the extra air pressure that is achieved over what would be achieved without the forced induction. Manifold pressure should not be confused with the volume of air that a turbo can flow.

When you port and polish your heads or intake manis, your are, I guess, reducing the restriction, because the flow rate of turbo increases, not decreases psi. Psi gives the tuner the idea of how dense the air is, so that he can calculate the amount of fuel needed to match the increased air in the cyl. So note that when you see 14.7 psi on your boost gauge that you are actually producing 2 bars of pressure. The first bar overcomes atmo pressure, and above that is boost.

Crysalis: What size turbo are you looking at? I dont think you should need bigger than a 40mm gate. The wastegate placement is also a bigger deal than the size usually. It should be in the center, not tapped off one cyl. If its on one cyl, you may get creep even though its correctly sized.

 

I was looking at either a Turbonetics 62mm or Garrett 61mm so I was figuring on a 38mm to 40mm wastegate.