Mustang Hard to Start
11-10-2010, 09:36 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: California
Posts: 14
Mustang Hard to Start
Hey Everyone,
I've got a 2001 Mustang V6 vert with ~110,000 miles on it. It's a California car that was just recently brought to Ohio. I have had the car for ~7-8 months now and have just recently been having issues when starting the car (cold start). The car turns over fine, but won't fire sometimes after going for 8-10 seconds then second try it works. Other times (still cold start) it will fire within like 1 second. Other symptoms that make a bit of difference... the car seems to chug slightly up steep hills or even on flat land (flat land most noticeable under medium to heavy acceleration just under 2000rpm in 3rd gear, 4th and 5th it can be felt too, but less evident) Overall it's pretty subtle, but enough to know that there is probably something wrong. The car idles pretty well, but when the AC was on in the summer it made the acceleration problem more evident and sometimes made the idle a little rougher. Definitely made you feel that the compressor was on in the acceleration.
-Replaced the battery about 6 months ago (when I bought the car it was still the original!! with bad corrosion on the terminals)
NOTE: battery connections were cleaned, but there is currently some corrosion visible
-Replaced Headers w/ BBK headers
-I replaced the plugs when i got the car
-Replaced air filter with K&N
-Just replaced the fuel filter
Any ideas on where I can go from here? The biggest thing I need to address is the starting issues, I can't have a non reliable car, performance is the second issue.
FYI - CEL is not on and hasn't been on
I've got a 2001 Mustang V6 vert with ~110,000 miles on it. It's a California car that was just recently brought to Ohio. I have had the car for ~7-8 months now and have just recently been having issues when starting the car (cold start). The car turns over fine, but won't fire sometimes after going for 8-10 seconds then second try it works. Other times (still cold start) it will fire within like 1 second. Other symptoms that make a bit of difference... the car seems to chug slightly up steep hills or even on flat land (flat land most noticeable under medium to heavy acceleration just under 2000rpm in 3rd gear, 4th and 5th it can be felt too, but less evident) Overall it's pretty subtle, but enough to know that there is probably something wrong. The car idles pretty well, but when the AC was on in the summer it made the acceleration problem more evident and sometimes made the idle a little rougher. Definitely made you feel that the compressor was on in the acceleration.
-Replaced the battery about 6 months ago (when I bought the car it was still the original!! with bad corrosion on the terminals)
NOTE: battery connections were cleaned, but there is currently some corrosion visible
-Replaced Headers w/ BBK headers
-I replaced the plugs when i got the car
-Replaced air filter with K&N
-Just replaced the fuel filter
Any ideas on where I can go from here? The biggest thing I need to address is the starting issues, I can't have a non reliable car, performance is the second issue.
FYI - CEL is not on and hasn't been on
11-11-2010, 10:22 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: California
Posts: 14
Hey so I did NOT replace the plug wires at the time. Do you think it would be worth replacing right now? Should I find out the factory specs and check these wires or you think just go ahead and replace them?
Secondly I just threw in some STP Gas Treatment in this tank (was told that if this could remove water in the tank if present). Do you think I should burn through this tank and then add 1/3 a can of Seafoam to the next fill up?
Thanks,
Brian
Secondly I just threw in some STP Gas Treatment in this tank (was told that if this could remove water in the tank if present). Do you think I should burn through this tank and then add 1/3 a can of Seafoam to the next fill up?
Thanks,
Brian
Last edited by beerman4679; 11-11-2010 at 10:28 AM.
11-11-2010, 10:59 AM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 302
its best to always replace your plugs and wires at the same time if your doing a tune up. Keeps things running more smoothly and a lot less guessing. I would suggest replacing the wires, burn through the tank and see if it helps, if it doesnt I always poor the whole can in and fill the tank up all the way, but thats up to you. If that dont work try taking ur injectors out and cleaning them or have them cleaned
11-11-2010, 12:08 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: California
Posts: 14
So I checked my plug wires and they don't look visually in bad shape other than being a little dirty. Don't feel brittle or anything. Also I checked the resistances
#1 ~15.8Kohm - 52inches long = 3.65K/ft
#2 ~13.6Kohm - 44inches long = 3.72K/ft
#3 ~11.5Kohm - 40inches long = 3.45K/ft
#4 ~5.5Kohm - 15inches long = 4.40K/ft
#5 ~4.7Kohm - 15inches long = 3.76K/ft
#6 ~4.7Kohm - 15inches long = 4.40K/ft
Does these wires seem to check out ok then?
#1 ~15.8Kohm - 52inches long = 3.65K/ft
#2 ~13.6Kohm - 44inches long = 3.72K/ft
#3 ~11.5Kohm - 40inches long = 3.45K/ft
#4 ~5.5Kohm - 15inches long = 4.40K/ft
#5 ~4.7Kohm - 15inches long = 3.76K/ft
#6 ~4.7Kohm - 15inches long = 4.40K/ft
Does these wires seem to check out ok then?
11-11-2010, 01:16 PM
#6
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: nm
Posts: 119
I would check your fuel pressure when it is acting up. You might have a pump on it's way out. I had a similar problem with my fuel pump and it finally just quit working. No codes on mine either. In my case I didn't even need to test fuel pressure because I was getting no fuel when pressing in on the fuel pressure test port.
11-11-2010, 06:25 PM
#7
Your wires are toast, get some new ones, I recommend MSD or Motorcraft.
Put in some NGK TR5 plugs
Yank the worthless bbk headers, sell them to some sucker that doesn't know any better, and either put your stockers back on or get some long tubes and do it right.
Put in some NGK TR5 plugs
Yank the worthless bbk headers, sell them to some sucker that doesn't know any better, and either put your stockers back on or get some long tubes and do it right.
11-12-2010, 07:35 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: California
Posts: 14
Hey guys thanks for the advice. Currently I'm running sea foam through the tank, replacing the plug wires w/ Motorcraft, soon gonna find some time and clean the MAF and TB. I'll check back in after I get through all that.
@RyansQuick6 what makes you disklike the BBKs so much? My passenger side stock header cracked and the drivers side was in OK shape, so I figured I'd get a quick replacement. Wasn't really looking for a performance gain for that, cuz money is a little tight for doing a full exhaust. Plus with limited tools the shorty headers I could do myself, pain in the *** for me, but I'm guessing long tubes woulda been much more difficult plus $$$.
@RyansQuick6 what makes you disklike the BBKs so much? My passenger side stock header cracked and the drivers side was in OK shape, so I figured I'd get a quick replacement. Wasn't really looking for a performance gain for that, cuz money is a little tight for doing a full exhaust. Plus with limited tools the shorty headers I could do myself, pain in the *** for me, but I'm guessing long tubes woulda been much more difficult plus $$$.
11-16-2010, 10:45 PM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,670
Hard start problems are usually due to either an electrical issue (bad battery/wires/connections, or a fuel pressure problem). Most common is a bad/weak battery or the terminals connecting to the battery are corroded and not making a good connection. Since you've replaced the battery (I assume with a new battery) and cleaned up the connections, I'd start looking into a fuel pressure problem.
When the car has been sitting for a while, if you put the key in the ignition and turn it to the Run position (the last 'click' before it tries to crank the motor) do you hear the fuel pump start up? If so, turn the key to the off position and then back to the run position and wait for the pump to stop. This will allow the pump to build up pressure in the fuel lines. Then try to start the car. Does it start easier? If so, then its a fuel pressure problem and you have a leak somewhere between the fuel injectors and the fuel pump. Its fairly simple to track down.
Most autoparts stores will rent fuel pressure gauges that you can attach to the zirk fitting on the fuel rail. Run a fuel pressure test and a leak down test. There are a ton of videos on YouTube about how to do a fuel pressure test. Its a fairly universal procedure. Make sure the fuel pressure is at the correct range and the needle isn't bouncing around a lot. Then turn the car off and see if the needle starts to drop fairly quickly. If it does, you have a fuel pressure leak somewhere. While the needle is dropping, take a set of pliers and pinch the flexible fuel-return line as close to the tank as you can get. If the needle stops dropping, then the leak is between the pliers and the fuel pump. If the needle continues to fall, then the leak is between the pliers and the fuel injectors.
Good luck...
When the car has been sitting for a while, if you put the key in the ignition and turn it to the Run position (the last 'click' before it tries to crank the motor) do you hear the fuel pump start up? If so, turn the key to the off position and then back to the run position and wait for the pump to stop. This will allow the pump to build up pressure in the fuel lines. Then try to start the car. Does it start easier? If so, then its a fuel pressure problem and you have a leak somewhere between the fuel injectors and the fuel pump. Its fairly simple to track down.
Most autoparts stores will rent fuel pressure gauges that you can attach to the zirk fitting on the fuel rail. Run a fuel pressure test and a leak down test. There are a ton of videos on YouTube about how to do a fuel pressure test. Its a fairly universal procedure. Make sure the fuel pressure is at the correct range and the needle isn't bouncing around a lot. Then turn the car off and see if the needle starts to drop fairly quickly. If it does, you have a fuel pressure leak somewhere. While the needle is dropping, take a set of pliers and pinch the flexible fuel-return line as close to the tank as you can get. If the needle stops dropping, then the leak is between the pliers and the fuel pump. If the needle continues to fall, then the leak is between the pliers and the fuel injectors.
Good luck...