Cold Start Issues On '98 3.8
Hopefully, you all could offer me some guidance on an issue that I seem to be encountering, on what seems like a daily basis, with my '98 3.8.
About two months ago, I started having issues where the car would start, but within seconds, instantly shut off. This wouldn't happen on a daily basis, but sporadically, from time to time. After some initial research on various forums, it was suggested that the issue may lie with that of the IAC (Idle Air Control valve), and that I should attempt to clean it out with that of a carb cleaning product. After doing the clean, the car ran smooth, and I had absolutely no further issues.
Fast forward to about two weeks ago, and we started having very cold temperatures in my area, a lot colder than we usually do for this time of year. The car had been sitting outside for a couple of days, because it's not my daily driver. When I went outside one evening to try and finally use it, the car would crank, but the engine wouldn't turn over at all. I kept trying for several minutes, but it was still to no avail. Due to my schedule, the only time I really had to check under the hood for issues, was during the evening hours, which naturally meant zero lighting, and coupled with that of the cold weather and rain, I wasn't able to really accomplish anything.
Three nights ago, we were having warmer weather, so I walk outside, just to try the car, and voila, it cranks up, and runs perfectly. So I was able to let the battery charge a bit by letting it run, and also the following day it started with no problems, and I drove all about town, again, with zero issues.
Tonight, I go outside though, and it's gotten a bit colder, and it won't start again, and it's doing the same issues from before, where it cranks, but won't turn over.
Can anybody offer me any suggestions, or guidance even, on this issue? It's really frustrating because I feel as if I can't depend on this car at all.
Thanks in advance!
About two months ago, I started having issues where the car would start, but within seconds, instantly shut off. This wouldn't happen on a daily basis, but sporadically, from time to time. After some initial research on various forums, it was suggested that the issue may lie with that of the IAC (Idle Air Control valve), and that I should attempt to clean it out with that of a carb cleaning product. After doing the clean, the car ran smooth, and I had absolutely no further issues.
Fast forward to about two weeks ago, and we started having very cold temperatures in my area, a lot colder than we usually do for this time of year. The car had been sitting outside for a couple of days, because it's not my daily driver. When I went outside one evening to try and finally use it, the car would crank, but the engine wouldn't turn over at all. I kept trying for several minutes, but it was still to no avail. Due to my schedule, the only time I really had to check under the hood for issues, was during the evening hours, which naturally meant zero lighting, and coupled with that of the cold weather and rain, I wasn't able to really accomplish anything.
Three nights ago, we were having warmer weather, so I walk outside, just to try the car, and voila, it cranks up, and runs perfectly. So I was able to let the battery charge a bit by letting it run, and also the following day it started with no problems, and I drove all about town, again, with zero issues.
Tonight, I go outside though, and it's gotten a bit colder, and it won't start again, and it's doing the same issues from before, where it cranks, but won't turn over.
Can anybody offer me any suggestions, or guidance even, on this issue? It's really frustrating because I feel as if I can't depend on this car at all.
Thanks in advance!
I can't say for sure, but I immediately think fuel filter and water in system. I would immediately put some Seafoam in the tank, up pcv induction line.Replace filter if its been 6k or more.
Not hearing things makes it hard to say though.
Is it fixed yet??
No alcohol! Alcohol+Ethanol= Bad news.
Not hearing things makes it hard to say though.
Is it fixed yet??
No alcohol! Alcohol+Ethanol= Bad news.
Last edited by robb15033; Dec 22, 2010 at 02:42 AM. Reason: No alcohol!
This site will give you a basic roadmap of what you need to do to determine the problem so that you can troubleshoot it.
It has some great info.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/car_wont_start.htm
The part that you will want to read is :
ENGINE CRANKS OKAY BUT WON'T START
If the engine cranks over normally when you attempt to start you car, but the engine does not start, the problem may be NO FUEL, NO SPARK or NO COMPRESSION. The engine needs adequate fuel pressure, a properly timed spark and normal compression to start.
TIP: To find why the engine won't start, remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body, push the throttle open and spray a small amount of aerosol starting fluid into the engine. Crank the engine. IF it has spark and compression but NO FUEL, it will start and run a few seconds before dying. If it does NOT start, it probably has NO SPARK.
TIP: Another method to check for spark is to pull a spark plug wire off of a spark plug (if it has plug wires, coil-on-plug ignitions do not) and place the open end of the plug wire near a metal surface on the engine. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch for a spark. DO NOT hold the wire while doing this as it can shock you. If you see a spark, the problem is not spark, but most likely NO FUEL or NO COMPRESSION. If you do not see a spark, the problem is in the IGNITION CIRCUIT.
TIP: Proper fuel pressure is critical for fuel injected engines to start and run. You should hear the fuel pump inside the fuel tank buzz for a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned on (no buzz means the pump is not running and the engine is not getting fuel). You can smell the tailpipe for gasoline vapors after cranking the engine. If you smell gas, the problem is likely not fuel but NO SPARK. You can also remove the plastic cap and press the schraeder valve test fitting on the fuel rail to see if there is any fuel pressure to the engine (not a very accurate test because fuel pressure must be at a certain level for the engine to start, for that you need a gauge). Even so, no fuel at the fuel rail would tell you fuel is not getting to the engine.
It has some great info.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/car_wont_start.htm
The part that you will want to read is :
ENGINE CRANKS OKAY BUT WON'T START
If the engine cranks over normally when you attempt to start you car, but the engine does not start, the problem may be NO FUEL, NO SPARK or NO COMPRESSION. The engine needs adequate fuel pressure, a properly timed spark and normal compression to start.
TIP: To find why the engine won't start, remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body, push the throttle open and spray a small amount of aerosol starting fluid into the engine. Crank the engine. IF it has spark and compression but NO FUEL, it will start and run a few seconds before dying. If it does NOT start, it probably has NO SPARK.
TIP: Another method to check for spark is to pull a spark plug wire off of a spark plug (if it has plug wires, coil-on-plug ignitions do not) and place the open end of the plug wire near a metal surface on the engine. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch for a spark. DO NOT hold the wire while doing this as it can shock you. If you see a spark, the problem is not spark, but most likely NO FUEL or NO COMPRESSION. If you do not see a spark, the problem is in the IGNITION CIRCUIT.
TIP: Proper fuel pressure is critical for fuel injected engines to start and run. You should hear the fuel pump inside the fuel tank buzz for a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned on (no buzz means the pump is not running and the engine is not getting fuel). You can smell the tailpipe for gasoline vapors after cranking the engine. If you smell gas, the problem is likely not fuel but NO SPARK. You can also remove the plastic cap and press the schraeder valve test fitting on the fuel rail to see if there is any fuel pressure to the engine (not a very accurate test because fuel pressure must be at a certain level for the engine to start, for that you need a gauge). Even so, no fuel at the fuel rail would tell you fuel is not getting to the engine.
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