V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs Technical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters

Same old question with 1 slight variation.

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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 07:35 PM
  #1  
tat2dmeatman's Avatar
tat2dmeatman
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Default Same old question with 1 slight variation.

I originally posted this at the tail end of another thread about the CEL and finally getting some codes to help narrow down the problem. I happened across another thread which mentioned that backfiring sometimes narrows things down to coil packs, and could maybe save me some busted knuckles on that damned #1 cylinder. Anyhow, here is a copy of MY question, complete with codes (I did do a thread search, I promise!) Thanks guys.
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I've had something similar to this since we bought ours in 2008. I've changed plugs/wires, and kept good fuel in it. Yesterday it really started acting up, and today I actually heard it backfire twice. I read in another thread that backfire is usually an indicator of a bad coil pack. Can anyone verify that? It FINALLY threw two codes today P0301 (Misfire detected in the 1st 1000 revs) and P0316 (Misfire on Cylinder #1.) I haven't seen anything on the 301 code anywhere else, and that makes me wonder if it's significant. This car has never run right, from the day I bought it, it had that little hesitation, and it hates the cold. I'm just curious what others experience might be with backfire, and coil packs. Thanks.
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 08:03 PM
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P0301 is misfire cylinder 1, not 316. P0316 is the misfire in first 1000 rpms. All that means is that cylinder 1 is skipping basically as soon as you start then engine.

So basically you have a misfire in cylinder 1. Looking at pics online it seems the coil packs are once piece, so you can't swap coils around to see if the skip moves.

Was it always setting the P0301, or has it only set codes after you changes plugs and wires? If it started after you changes plugs/wires, try swapping a plug and see if it moves, or a wire. Just make sure to swap one at a time so you can tell what the actual cause is. You could have gotten a bad plug/wire.

Pull the plug and see if it's fouled.

I'm gonna lean towards coils, but there could be other things causing a miss. There could be something in the valvetrain. Do you hear any ticking or tapping or any weird noises? You could have a sticking valve or a worn cam.
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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I do hear a little ticking in the passenger side valve area. I can do alot of the easy stuff, but once we get into valves and cams, I'm in trouble. I will say that I have seafoamed the engine about a year ago, and I run fuel treatments in it to try and keep all that stuff cleaned. I'm hoping it's something simple though. I was trying to remember the codes, and got them backwards. Sorry about that! Thanks for the advice!
Old Jan 3, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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Does the ticking go away with increased RPM, or does it get faster/louder?

Something I've seen happen a few times is the lifter and cam wear down, and the valve doesn't open completely and causes a misfire. I've seen it happen almost exclusively on gen 3 GM small blocks, but that doesn't mean it can't happen on any engine.
Old Jan 4, 2011 | 05:30 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by tat2dmeatman
I do hear a little ticking in the passenger side valve area. I can do alot of the easy stuff, but once we get into valves and cams, I'm in trouble. I will say that I have seafoamed the engine about a year ago, and I run fuel treatments in it to try and keep all that stuff cleaned. I'm hoping it's something simple though. I was trying to remember the codes, and got them backwards. Sorry about that! Thanks for the advice!
Most likely what you are hearing is a cracked exhaust manifold. It is very comman on the Edges for the exhaust manifolds to crack because the A/C condinsation discharge tube droppes water onto them when the car is running causing them to crack after a while. Does the ticking go away after the car is warmed up?

Matthew
Old Jan 4, 2011 | 08:50 PM
  #6  
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No, the ticking doesn't go away when warm. It does decrease under RPM's. It's done that since we've had the car though. I hope it's not the manifold. *Prays* The other thing that sounds new to me, when I rev it and let off it has a more rumbly (is that even a word?) sound. Not popping or cracking, just not what a normal 6 cyl should sound like.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:00 AM
  #7  
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You could try borrowing a coil pack from a buddy with a ford v6 (see list below) or from a local junk yard. The point is to see if the misfire goes away with the different coil, so it isn't vital that the different coil pack is perfect.

You can test a coil pack with a multi-meter. Go to your local AutoZone and print out a copy of the spec sheet for the replacement coil pack that they stock. Its the same specs as the OEM coil pack. Then check the primary and secondary windings resistance. If you don't know how, let me know. Its pretty easy.

An alternate method is to get an HEI Ignition Tester, plug it into the cyl 1 coil pack tower and connect the clip to a jumper cable connected to the ground terminal on the battery. Then start the motor and let it idle. See if it gets steady/even spark. Run that same test on other towers so you have a good comparison. If its not getting steady/even spark, then the coil is bad. If it checks out, plug the ignition tester into the spark plug end of the spark plug wire and run the same test. If it doesn't get stead/even spark, then the wire is bad.


Ford uses the same coil pack for ALOT of different models and year cars/trucks with V6 motors. According to RockAuto.com, any 2001-2004 V6 Mustang will have your coil pack.

Here is the full list:

FORD E-150 ECONOLINE (2001 - 2003)
FORD E-250 ECONOLINE (2001 - 2003)
FORD F-150 (2001 - 2003)
FORD F-150 HERITAGE 2004
FORD F-150 STX (2005 - 2008)
FORD F-150 XL (2005 - 2008)
FORD F-150 XLT (2005 - 2008)
FORD FREESTAR (2004 - 2007)
FORD FREESTAR LIMITED (2006 - 2007)
FORD FREESTAR SE 2007
FORD FREESTAR SEL (2006 - 2007)
FORD MUSTANG (2001 - 2004)
FORD RANGER (2001 - 2004)
FORD RANGER EDGE (2001 - 2005)
FORD RANGER SPORT (2006 - 2008)
FORD RANGER STX (2005 - 2007)
FORD RANGER XL (2005 - 2008)
FORD RANGER XLT (2005 - 2008)
FORD TAURUS (2000 - 2005)
FORD TAURUS SE (2006 - 2007)
FORD TAURUS SEL (2006 - 2007)
FORD WINDSTAR (2001 - 2003)
MERCURY COUGAR (2001 - 2002)
MERCURY COUGAR S 2001
MERCURY MONTEREY (2004 - 2005)
MERCURY MONTEREY LUXURY (2006 - 2007)
MERCURY MONTEREY PREMIER 2004
MERCURY SABLE (2000 - 2005)
MERCURY SABLE GS 2005


Good luck...

Last edited by petrock; Jan 5, 2011 at 12:03 AM.
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 09:49 AM
  #8  
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Thanks for all the help guys. Turns out I live like 10 minutes from Mustangs Unlimited here in Georgia. I'm gonna run over there today and hopefully get this thing fixed.

@Pet: It should BUT mine is the 3.9 and it isn't the same. From what I understand, Ford had a bunch of leftover 3.9's from the Windstar and put them in the Mustang. I have no idea if this is true or not, but I've played hell trying to find parts.

Last edited by tat2dmeatman; Jan 8, 2011 at 09:53 AM.
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 10:10 AM
  #9  
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the 3.8 and 3.9 is the exact same engine except for slightly different rotating assembly.

They share the exact same blocks/heads/intakes/etc.

If you cant find parts for it your not looking.
Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Fink
the 3.8 and 3.9 is the exact same engine except for slightly different rotating assembly.

They share the exact same blocks/heads/intakes/etc.

If you cant find parts for it your not looking.

I stand corrected. You would however, be surprised how many people don't know that. I have tried to find 3.9 parts from Moss, American Muscle, and Mustangs Unlimited and I have repeatedly been told they aren't compatible. It worked out great today though. I got the new coil pack, and it worked like a charm. I appreciate all the input, and advice. Thanks Everyone!
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