1996 Mustang Stock 3.8L V6 - Check Engine Light On
01-15-2011, 08:52 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 5
1996 Mustang Stock 3.8L V6 - Check Engine Light On
So I have just recently purchase my first mustang and I have already replaced the drive pulley, tensioner, tensioner pulley, air compressor, battery, and all the general maint. stuff like oil and such. Today I was driving and my "Check Engine" light came on. I went to the local Auto Zone and had the plug up and see what the engine code was and it was P1443 - Cainster Purge Solenoid or Sensor. I have read that the part is not hard to replace and is located in the passenger front fender well. My question is, is it safe to drive my stang with this problem? I know it is not good at any cost but I need to get till Friday, so if anyone has some experience behind this issue, please let me know. Thank you.
01-15-2011, 08:57 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 12,260
01-16-2011, 02:12 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 5
Thanks, Questions?
Thank you for the response Neo. That makes me feel better. Do you know if it is going to be something that is pretty easy for me to do myself (replacing the solenoid and or sensor) or if it is something I am going to want a mechanic to do? I know my way around a wrench and have done engine work on other cars so I dont think I will have a problem, also are there any tips on getting the plastic shroud away from the fender well so I can get to the parts?
01-16-2011, 11:11 AM
#7
Well its pretty easy to get it and on my wifes 96' its actually in the engine bays far rear pass corner.
I had/have the same evap problem and changed the parts that I was suppose to but it keeps coming back as that.
The gas cap was/is part of the problem because her car has an old worn out locking gas cap.
I never really tried to fix it because it wasnt something that would harm the car and it wasnt something (in this state) that would cause me to fail inspection but it other states it would.
We are also doing an 01' Cobra swap right now and all of that stuff is coming out so thats another reason why I never cared too much about it, I knew we were going to do this swap.
When taking care of this you should also take the rest of the evap system into account and change any rubber hoses that are dry rotted, replace your gas cap and replace the charcoal canister (its on the underside of the upper frame rail on the pass side under the fender.)
I found that while 1 code for 1 area could be thrown it could mean a few things could be wrong in the Evap system.
As for removing the inner fender, just take a plastic clip removal tool ($7 at Harbor Freight) and remove the plastic push clips from the inner fender then push up slightly to bring it away from the fender, then grab the lip of the inner fender and work it out.
Of course do all of this with the front tire off, its a lot easier.
I had/have the same evap problem and changed the parts that I was suppose to but it keeps coming back as that.
The gas cap was/is part of the problem because her car has an old worn out locking gas cap.
I never really tried to fix it because it wasnt something that would harm the car and it wasnt something (in this state) that would cause me to fail inspection but it other states it would.
We are also doing an 01' Cobra swap right now and all of that stuff is coming out so thats another reason why I never cared too much about it, I knew we were going to do this swap.
When taking care of this you should also take the rest of the evap system into account and change any rubber hoses that are dry rotted, replace your gas cap and replace the charcoal canister (its on the underside of the upper frame rail on the pass side under the fender.)
I found that while 1 code for 1 area could be thrown it could mean a few things could be wrong in the Evap system.
As for removing the inner fender, just take a plastic clip removal tool ($7 at Harbor Freight) and remove the plastic push clips from the inner fender then push up slightly to bring it away from the fender, then grab the lip of the inner fender and work it out.
Of course do all of this with the front tire off, its a lot easier.
01-17-2011, 08:27 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 5
Well I have another question, I have noticed that my Odometer and trip meter are not working but all of my other gauges do work. I have read a little around the internet that this is a common problem on this year, make, and model. The issue that I have found is that it is a stripped gear or broken gear. Does anyone know if this is the case or could it be something else? Also if this is the case, is this hard to repair or can it be repaired? Would it be cheaper to purchase a new gauge cluster?
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