V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs Technical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters

New Guy With Busted Mustang

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Old 02-11-2011, 03:55 PM
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canadaman
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Default New Guy With Busted Mustang

Hello All,

I've joined up in hopes some of the experts here can help me out. My wife's 1998 Mustang won't start. It's a V6 convertible with automatic and about 75K. The battery almost died and now it won't even turn over after I recharged it. I've been trying to fix it for a few weeks but I'm getting nowhere. I've searched around the internets for a while but come up empty.

What's the protocol here for trying to fix a starting problem? I can post more detail (many many details....) if anyone wants them.

Thanks!
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:52 PM
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NeoTokyo
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Check to see if the inertia switch in the trunk triggered for some reason.

It might be PATS (Passive anti theft system) too, one version of shut down is no power to ANYTHING another version is allowing it to turn over but not fire.

You could also have a corroded battery cables or the cable going from the fuse box to the alt.

Did you check all of your fuses and relays? Under hood and under dash.

Good luck.

-Eric-
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:53 PM
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NeoTokyo
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Also, Welcome to the forums.
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Old 02-12-2011, 06:09 AM
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LilRoush
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If you let it sit with a dead battery, I'd start with replacing it. Then go from there. I had to swap a new battery into my latest purchase about a week into owning it just b/c it sat in storage so long with a dead one.
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Old 02-12-2011, 04:35 PM
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canadaman
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Default Some more info

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all the suggestions. There is something more to this.

When my wife bought the car it came with an aftermarket security system from the stealership. She didn't want it so they "deactivated" it. Every now and then it would act up and disable the car. We had it removed a few years ago when we got sick of it stranding us.

I think it's still there causing problems. Down by the fuses in the drivers footwell is a small black box with the label FCC ID BGAAV2R. It's not bolted down, just stuck behind the wiring. There's a little info on it here
http://www.fixya.com/support/t327163...strange_switch

When you open the driver's door it makes a clicking sound like a turn signal. It lasts for about a minute after you close the door. I think it's the security system. The "theft" light on the dash doesn't flash but it sure acts like a kill switch is engaged.

I'll try a new battery just to be safe even though it's putting out 12-13V. Batteries do weird things when they're worn out.

Any suggestions about the ticking box?

Thanks!
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Old 02-17-2011, 02:04 AM
  #6  
petrock
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First thing to check for a no/rough start issue: the fuses and relays. A visual check of a fuse is only a basic test. You need to use a multi-meter or fuse tester to properly test a fuse. Most fuse kits come with a fuse tester in the kit. You can also swap the starter relay for a known good relay and see if that helps.

Second is the battery. It could be putting out the proper voltage, but its the amps that get you going. If it doesn't have enough amps, you'll have starting issues. Most auto parts stores will test your battery for free, call ahead first of course. Make sure they do a load test to simulate the conditions when starting the car. My guess is that it doesn't have enough "Cold Cranking Amps", which happens when a battery is on its way out.

In a no turn over situation, the next thing you check is if the starter is getting juice when you turn the key. If its not, then you have a break in the wiring between the battery, fuse, relay and starter.

In a turn over, but no start issue, next check for spark at the spark plugs. Pick up an ignition tester from your local auto parts store and make sure that your getting adequate spark at each plug. After that, rent a fuel pressure gauge and make sure your getting addiquate fuel pressure. After that.......

Good luck...
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Old 03-02-2011, 01:38 PM
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canadaman
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Default Sort of progress

Man this is taking forever.

I found the time to replace the battery. The old one was only putting out 350 amps. Not sure if that's a problem or not but I replaced it anyway. No help. I'll go over the fuses next.

I also reset the fuel cutoff in the trunk. I can hear the fuel pump whine when I turn the key to get power to the radio and such.

Where do you check for power at the starter? I've got the Chilton's guide but any tips are appreciated.

I'm still pretty sure it's this weird box in the footwell. I think it's preventing power to the starter.

Thanks for all the help!
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Old 03-02-2011, 02:34 PM
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MustangSally94
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I would first take it to an auto parts store and ask them to do a battery/alternator/starter test on it. Most parts stores (ex. Autozone) have a meter they attatch to your battery cables and it can tell you if either on of those three parts are bad. If all your fuses are good and you replaced the battery I would try that. If you cant get it started to get it there then you could always take the starter off and take it to them and they can test it out of the car. You can get the Alternator tested at an alternator shop also.

Also try checking all your cable to and from your battery. a bad ground or lose power wire can cause starting issues. Does the car click once then nothing? Or does it try to turn and then nothing? If its the first one then its either a bad ground or starter. If it tries to turn over but then nothing it could be a lose power wire or then box you mentioned.

What you could try with the box (research of course first) is snipping the wires (leave enough room to strip and cap back together) and see if it fixes the problem. If not, strip a portion of the wire and cap them back together (make notes of which wire goes where).
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Old 04-01-2011, 12:13 PM
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canadaman
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Default Well that was easy

Turns out it was a fuse. Just not the ones I was looking at.

I had AAA send out a truck to tow the car to my mechanic. He took one look at the box in the footwell, pronounced it an aftermarket alarm, yanked out it's fuse, and the car started immediately.

The fuse was on one of the wires connecting the alarm to the car. I never thought to look for it. Not much of an alarm if it can be disconnected so easily.

I'm posting this for the next guy who gets stuck with one of these stupid alarms. We already paid to have this thing disconnected once after never wanting it in the first place.

Next time I buy a car I'm making sure anything aftermarket is removed completely!

Thanks for all the advice guys!
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Old 04-01-2011, 01:01 PM
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NYstang
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Glad you got it worked out!

Hope you stick around, always nice to have new people
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