Make it $4000 plus ttt and we have a deal, and yes that includes everything, all the extra parts I have and the car, stupid damn Kenne Bell cost me more than that lol. It does need some engine work though, I say really a new engine block would be a good investment, along with a new radiator and changing out the water pump (which I have the pump). Other than that it's all good, everything else on the car has less than 20,000 miles on it.

 

did you have a v6 before the yellow car?
for some reason I am associating your name with a sixxer


EDIT
i suddenly wish I had 4k.... well... I do.... but it is part of a school fund and I would get murderized if i spent it on a mustang lol

 

Haha, nope, I own a 2000 V6 right now, and the only other sixer I owned was a red 98 V6 that I had when I joined the site. Here is one of my old sigs, might jog your memory lol.

 

its a 3,000 mile round trip, and what kind of engine work?

 

Well it would need to either be shipped or hauled up there cause as it sits it will not make the trip.

I'd highly suggest a new engine assembly because somebody (previous owners?) worked on that motor besides be and used JV weld to put the crank pulley in place, well when I had to change the harmonic balancer it broke the bolt out the block so in short the new crank will not press all the way in. It also needs a new rear main seal. In short it's just a good thing to put a new block in, you can get 306 stroker blocks for $800 and forged for like a $1000 maybe cheaper. You can get rebuilt 302 motors for $600ish.

Other than that it needs a new radiator and power steering pump. When the balancer I had blew off the block it cracked my already brand new radiator. The seal on the power steering has failed too. The radiator is all of $120 and the power steering is $70ish I think from autozone.

All you would do is pull the motor and pull everything off of it, install it to specs on the new motor, reinstall, rebolt up the belhousing and it'll be good to go.

It would be a good idea to change out the IAC and the trottle position sensors. I'm not sure but I think one of them was sending false signals to the engine, but a shop wouldn't tell me anything cause diagnosing that would of required more work than charging me $80 to run codes which didn't say squat.