Hurst
04-18-2006, 01:57 AM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location:
Posts: 176
Hurst
I know a few people have put in the Steeda short shifter, but has anyone put in the Hurst one: part 3910203. It's being used on the Shelby CS6 and while it is a bit more expensive, it is a Hurst. How easy would it be to install a short shifter at home? Need to jack it up, any special tools?
04-20-2006, 12:24 PM
#3
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 4
RE: Hurst
Check out this, color pictures and tips :
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...fter/index.php
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...fter/index.php
04-20-2006, 01:43 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 151
RE: Hurst
I checked out the site. It's a GT install but would be the same for us. I saw the price and pulled out my credit card. Sh*t all Amazon has is the GT shifter. For 179.00 it unbeatable ! Too bad it wasn't for the V6 or they would have a sale!
04-20-2006, 02:56 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 248
RE: Hurst
Yeah, I love the look of the Hurst too! And I hear it has an even shorter throw than the Tri-Ax. What my concern would be is the fact that the Steeda has stop-bolts while the Hurst does not. Do you think hard shifting on the Hurst could be potentially damaging to the tranny? I also wonder which one would make it the hardest to miss a shift (the 2-3 on the stock is a royal pain when I'm speed shifting).
Tim
Tim
04-20-2006, 03:26 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 151
RE: Hurst
Don't know where or when this bolt stop business ever came from. We just put a short throw in my sons 03 Mach1 and the manufacuture recomended removing them. It may be a lot of after market places just make so many some require the bolt and some don't. Hurst is almost as old as me, if they don't use them, you don't need them.
Just my 2 bucks ( cents ain't worth anything ).
Just my 2 bucks ( cents ain't worth anything ).
04-20-2006, 04:32 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location:
Posts: 188
RE: Hurst
ORIGINAL: Fig06
I checked out the site. It's a GT install but would be the same for us. I saw the price and pulled out my credit card. Sh*t all Amazon has is the GT shifter. For 179.00 it unbeatable ! Too bad it wasn't for the V6 or they would have a sale!
I checked out the site. It's a GT install but would be the same for us. I saw the price and pulled out my credit card. Sh*t all Amazon has is the GT shifter. For 179.00 it unbeatable ! Too bad it wasn't for the V6 or they would have a sale!
Hurst for the V6 BABY!!!
04-20-2006, 05:24 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 151
RE: Hurst
Posts: 91
Joined: 5/12/2005
Status: online quote:
ORIGINAL: Fig06
I checked out the site. It's a GT install but would be the same for us. I saw the price and pulled out my credit card. Sh*t all Amazon has is the GT shifter. For 179.00 it unbeatable ! Too bad it wasn't for the V6 or they would have a sale!
Pssst... Hey buddy got something for you over here in the back of my trunk.
Thanks ! Credit card about jumped out of my wallet. On order !!!
Can't wait.
Joined: 5/12/2005
Status: online quote:
ORIGINAL: Fig06
I checked out the site. It's a GT install but would be the same for us. I saw the price and pulled out my credit card. Sh*t all Amazon has is the GT shifter. For 179.00 it unbeatable ! Too bad it wasn't for the V6 or they would have a sale!
Pssst... Hey buddy got something for you over here in the back of my trunk.
Thanks ! Credit card about jumped out of my wallet. On order !!!
Can't wait.
04-21-2006, 11:44 PM
#9
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location:
Posts: 39
RE: Hurst
Yiip, this is where I bought mine.
First off, the stop bolts are NOT NECESSARY! The transmission has stops built into it. Using a shifter with stop bolts not only is not necessary, but if you adjust the stops to contact the shifter (why wouldn't you??) you may actually damage your transmission because you may not be able to get it fully into a gear. If you use one with stop bolts anyways, make sure they are not contacting the shifter in any gear position. Hurst claims that they recently released a model with stop bolts because customers keep complaining about the lack of them. Don't waste your money.
You do have to get under the car. There is a 10mm bolt to remove from the front of the shifter to the x-mission, a couple of 10mm nuts to remove from the back of the shifter to the chassis, and 1 ?size nut to remove from the shifter shaft to the transmission shift rod. I think it was a 12mm. If you want, you can also remove your driveshaft, but it's not necessary. You might think it is later when you're inside the car trying to get the old shifter to fit through the shifter tunnel hole, but it will squeeze through. The Hurst went in easier than the stocker came out. The instructions say that a helper underneath will make it easier, and I belive them but I did it myself.
There is some bench work to transfer a couple of bushings from the shifter shaft (don't know why they don't provide new ones since they seem like a wear item), and then to transfer the metal sleeve from the front shifter mounting bushing. This is probably meaningless unless you've done it, but take heed here. The instructions I had (among others on this forum) mention that there is a split metal sleeve in the stock shifter mounting bushing, but my car only had one sleeve that goes all the way through the bushing, so when you tighten the bolt back up, it tightens the sleeve to the transmission. Ford made a mid-year design change here in 2005. This is important because everyone seems to put the sleeve in so that the shoulder part of the sleeve is to the right side of the shifter, probably because this is how it is used in the stock shifter. This is sensible because the bolt head will then snug up against it. The problem is that since there isn't a similar shoulder part of the sleeve on the transmission side, the shifter seems to get slightly twisted when you snug up the bolt. For some people, this resulted in a buzzing noise in the shifter under hard acceleration at various RPM. Mine had no buzz, but my shifter was very hard to put into gear. I originally thought it was just because of the short throw, but then I read about this design change issue here and thought about how the lack of this shoulder could mis-position the shifter on the tranny. So I just took mine back off last weekend, reversed the sleeve so the shoulder is now between the shifter and the transmission, and added my own washer between the outside shifter bushing and the mounting bolt. It you want to prepare for this, you need a metric washer with a 12mm hole. The OD is not too important because there is a lot of room to work with there. I didn't have a 12mm washer, so I used a 1/2" HD galvanized washer. It was a little loose around the bolt, but seems to have worked fine.
The shifting is MUCH smoother now. Ironically, I then had the buzz at about 3500 RPM when a romped on it and wasn't holding the shifter ****. The problem here was that the lower rubber boot didn't seem to want to stay in position. Apparently, this rubber boot adds enough dampening to the shifter shaft to squelch the buzz. I pushed the boot down as low as I could get it, which seems to have done the trick.
Whew...I write too much!
Hope this helps.
First off, the stop bolts are NOT NECESSARY! The transmission has stops built into it. Using a shifter with stop bolts not only is not necessary, but if you adjust the stops to contact the shifter (why wouldn't you??) you may actually damage your transmission because you may not be able to get it fully into a gear. If you use one with stop bolts anyways, make sure they are not contacting the shifter in any gear position. Hurst claims that they recently released a model with stop bolts because customers keep complaining about the lack of them. Don't waste your money.
You do have to get under the car. There is a 10mm bolt to remove from the front of the shifter to the x-mission, a couple of 10mm nuts to remove from the back of the shifter to the chassis, and 1 ?size nut to remove from the shifter shaft to the transmission shift rod. I think it was a 12mm. If you want, you can also remove your driveshaft, but it's not necessary. You might think it is later when you're inside the car trying to get the old shifter to fit through the shifter tunnel hole, but it will squeeze through. The Hurst went in easier than the stocker came out. The instructions say that a helper underneath will make it easier, and I belive them but I did it myself.
There is some bench work to transfer a couple of bushings from the shifter shaft (don't know why they don't provide new ones since they seem like a wear item), and then to transfer the metal sleeve from the front shifter mounting bushing. This is probably meaningless unless you've done it, but take heed here. The instructions I had (among others on this forum) mention that there is a split metal sleeve in the stock shifter mounting bushing, but my car only had one sleeve that goes all the way through the bushing, so when you tighten the bolt back up, it tightens the sleeve to the transmission. Ford made a mid-year design change here in 2005. This is important because everyone seems to put the sleeve in so that the shoulder part of the sleeve is to the right side of the shifter, probably because this is how it is used in the stock shifter. This is sensible because the bolt head will then snug up against it. The problem is that since there isn't a similar shoulder part of the sleeve on the transmission side, the shifter seems to get slightly twisted when you snug up the bolt. For some people, this resulted in a buzzing noise in the shifter under hard acceleration at various RPM. Mine had no buzz, but my shifter was very hard to put into gear. I originally thought it was just because of the short throw, but then I read about this design change issue here and thought about how the lack of this shoulder could mis-position the shifter on the tranny. So I just took mine back off last weekend, reversed the sleeve so the shoulder is now between the shifter and the transmission, and added my own washer between the outside shifter bushing and the mounting bolt. It you want to prepare for this, you need a metric washer with a 12mm hole. The OD is not too important because there is a lot of room to work with there. I didn't have a 12mm washer, so I used a 1/2" HD galvanized washer. It was a little loose around the bolt, but seems to have worked fine.
The shifting is MUCH smoother now. Ironically, I then had the buzz at about 3500 RPM when a romped on it and wasn't holding the shifter ****. The problem here was that the lower rubber boot didn't seem to want to stay in position. Apparently, this rubber boot adds enough dampening to the shifter shaft to squelch the buzz. I pushed the boot down as low as I could get it, which seems to have done the trick.
Whew...I write too much!
Hope this helps.
