Have about $4000-$5000
#21
RE: Have about $4000-$5000
For the dollars to HP I think a supercharger is money much better spent than heads/cams. Now if you are planning on SC down the line some time the heads/cams will be a good supplement, but if you are just going to do one or the other I'd do the SC for sure. JMO
#22
RE: Have about $4000-$5000
ORIGINAL: beaustang
For the dollars to HP I think a supercharger is money much better spent than heads/cams. Now if you are planning on SC down the line some time the heads/cams will be a good supplement, but if you are just going to do one or the other I'd do the SC for sure. JMO
For the dollars to HP I think a supercharger is money much better spent than heads/cams. Now if you are planning on SC down the line some time the heads/cams will be a good supplement, but if you are just going to do one or the other I'd do the SC for sure. JMO
#23
RE: Have about $4000-$5000
ORIGINAL: 8cd03gro
i dont want to start an argument, just kinda some rebuttle statements. 215rwhp on an auto on a mustang dyno, like i said earlier, could be close to 250rwhp on a manual with stage 3 (the cams will up the peak hp somewhat) and will likely keep the same reliability and longevity as stock. Probably get around 260+rwtq too, which is right around what the cali x-charger is putting down and some of the other non-intercooled blowers... and it will cost less. Of course this all depends on how the md is calibrated that gash was on, but still...i think if he is just looking for a considerable jump in power without sacrificing reliability or longevity that heads/cams is something to keep in mind.
ORIGINAL: beaustang
For the dollars to HP I think a supercharger is money much better spent than heads/cams. Now if you are planning on SC down the line some time the heads/cams will be a good supplement, but if you are just going to do one or the other I'd do the SC for sure. JMO
For the dollars to HP I think a supercharger is money much better spent than heads/cams. Now if you are planning on SC down the line some time the heads/cams will be a good supplement, but if you are just going to do one or the other I'd do the SC for sure. JMO
#24
RE: Have about $4000-$5000
No worries, you can rebut all you want lol. I do question your HP estimate though; how do you make the jump from 215 hp on an auto to 250 on a manual?That seems like too big of a difference, I've seen autos stock dyno at 185 to 190 and manuals 195 to just under 200. How do you figure?
ORIGINAL: 8cd03gro
i dont want to start an argument, just kinda some rebuttle statements. 215rwhp on an auto on a mustang dyno, like i said earlier, could be close to 250rwhp on a manual with stage 3 (the cams will up the peak hp somewhat) and will likely keep the same reliability and longevity as stock. Probably get around 260+rwtq too, which is right around what the cali x-charger is putting down and some of the other non-intercooled blowers... and it will cost less. Of course this all depends on how the md is calibrated that gash was on, but still...i think if he is just looking for a considerable jump in power without sacrificing reliability or longevity that heads/cams is something to keep in mind.
ORIGINAL: beaustang
For the dollars to HP I think a supercharger is money much better spent than heads/cams. Now if you are planning on SC down the line some time the heads/cams will be a good supplement, but if you are just going to do one or the other I'd do the SC for sure. JMO
For the dollars to HP I think a supercharger is money much better spent than heads/cams. Now if you are planning on SC down the line some time the heads/cams will be a good supplement, but if you are just going to do one or the other I'd do the SC for sure. JMO
#25
RE: Have about $4000-$5000
sorry i should have put more emphasis on the fact that gash's numbers are on a mustang dyno. There are a few major differences between mustang dynos and dynojets, mainly that mustang dynos simulate load. Mustang dyno's tend to usually read lower than dynojets. Since most of the numbers people use here are dynojet, it is hard to compare accurately, but we can geta general idea and this is where i am coming from with the numbers. Gash dynoed (on the same mustang dyno used for his final results) with just TI/XCAL2 and i beleive duals.... i think it was 185rwhp or about that...So (again dont take these as fact because they are just for comparison sake) since many are seeing close to 200rwhp if not 200rwhp on autos with those same mods on dynojets, i beleive it is pretty safe to say that this md is reading a bit lower than your average dynojet. To find a good estimate of how low it is reading we could 200/185, but just to make sure we don't overestimate, let's say 195/185. 195/185=1.054. So roughly 5.4% lower. So if we put gash's car on a dynojet it would probably read about 1.054x215 which is about 226-227rwhp. and for torque about 236x1.054 so 249rwtq. That is what i feel is a good estimate of what gash would put down on a dj. Now he has stage 2, not stage 3, which is missing the cams and a few other little tid-bits. We could say 10rwhp from the cams probably, maybe a bit less and likely no gain in torque. so just to be even more on the conservative side, lets say 235rwhp and 249rwtq would be about gash's numbers on a dynojet with stage 3 heads if he had them. Since automatics create more drivetrain powerloss than manuals ( at the VERY LEAST 3%) we will say 1.03 x the previous numbers which comes out to about 242rwhp and 257rwtq. Now, once again, these numbers are obviously not law because they are still speculation, but i feel they should be pretty accurate, and i'm confident that they will be close to actual results.
#27
RE: Have about $4000-$5000
id have to agree on the heads and cams... if you go with a slightly more aggressive cam and some quality heads, you'll be picking up a hell of a lot more horsepower.. this would also be a great opportunity to upgrade your valvetrain (can anyone say titanium?), so if you ever do decide to go FI, then you'll have a valvetrain prepared for it, and you'll have a higher potential cfm from the ported heads.. the cams are going to show a gain with the s/c or turbo, despite what people may say about "valve overlap" according to what i've been reading about mustang modular builds in books.
#28
RE: Have about $4000-$5000
I see where you're coming from but it's all conjecture until Gash gets his car on a Dynojet. I'm not saying heads and cams are not a good idea, I'm just saying FI for the money is a better bet. We have many examples of tremendous gains on our motors with $4 to 5k in FI mods and very little evidence of what heads and cams can do. I said very little not none at all, obviously Gash and Flapjack are examples of good gains on heads or heads and cams in Flapjacks case. But if someone is going to do one or the other I would suggest the FI, if you are planning on both I'd suggest the heads/cams first. Further, I would also suggest that anyone who was going to do both should take the extra precaution and replace the pistons with forged ones at the same time as the heads. To each his own.
ORIGINAL: 8cd03gro
sorry i should have put more emphasis on the fact that gash's numbers are on a mustang dyno. There are a few major differences between mustang dynos and dynojets, mainly that mustang dynos simulate load. Mustang dyno's tend to usually read lower than dynojets. Since most of the numbers people use here are dynojet, it is hard to compare accurately, but we can geta general idea and this is where i am coming from with the numbers. Gash dynoed (on the same mustang dyno used for his final results) with just TI/XCAL2 and i beleive duals.... i think it was 185rwhp or about that...So (again dont take these as fact because they are just for comparison sake) since many are seeing close to 200rwhp if not 200rwhp on autos with those same mods on dynojets, i beleive it is pretty safe to say that this md is reading a bit lower than your average dynojet. To find a good estimate of how low it is reading we could 200/185, but just to make sure we don't overestimate, let's say 195/185. 195/185=1.054. So roughly 5.4% lower. So if we put gash's car on a dynojet it would probably read about 1.054x215 which is about 226-227rwhp. and for torque about 236x1.054 so 249rwtq. That is what i feel is a good estimate of what gash would put down on a dj. Now he has stage 2, not stage 3, which is missing the cams and a few other little tid-bits. We could say 10rwhp from the cams probably, maybe a bit less and likely no gain in torque. so just to be even more on the conservative side, lets say 235rwhp and 249rwtq would be about gash's numbers on a dynojet with stage 3 heads if he had them. Since automatics create more drivetrain powerloss than manuals ( at the VERY LEAST 3%) we will say 1.03 x the previous numbers which comes out to about 242rwhp and 257rwtq. Now, once again, these numbers are obviously not law because they are still speculation, but i feel they should be pretty accurate, and i'm confident that they will be close to actual results.
sorry i should have put more emphasis on the fact that gash's numbers are on a mustang dyno. There are a few major differences between mustang dynos and dynojets, mainly that mustang dynos simulate load. Mustang dyno's tend to usually read lower than dynojets. Since most of the numbers people use here are dynojet, it is hard to compare accurately, but we can geta general idea and this is where i am coming from with the numbers. Gash dynoed (on the same mustang dyno used for his final results) with just TI/XCAL2 and i beleive duals.... i think it was 185rwhp or about that...So (again dont take these as fact because they are just for comparison sake) since many are seeing close to 200rwhp if not 200rwhp on autos with those same mods on dynojets, i beleive it is pretty safe to say that this md is reading a bit lower than your average dynojet. To find a good estimate of how low it is reading we could 200/185, but just to make sure we don't overestimate, let's say 195/185. 195/185=1.054. So roughly 5.4% lower. So if we put gash's car on a dynojet it would probably read about 1.054x215 which is about 226-227rwhp. and for torque about 236x1.054 so 249rwtq. That is what i feel is a good estimate of what gash would put down on a dj. Now he has stage 2, not stage 3, which is missing the cams and a few other little tid-bits. We could say 10rwhp from the cams probably, maybe a bit less and likely no gain in torque. so just to be even more on the conservative side, lets say 235rwhp and 249rwtq would be about gash's numbers on a dynojet with stage 3 heads if he had them. Since automatics create more drivetrain powerloss than manuals ( at the VERY LEAST 3%) we will say 1.03 x the previous numbers which comes out to about 242rwhp and 257rwtq. Now, once again, these numbers are obviously not law because they are still speculation, but i feel they should be pretty accurate, and i'm confident that they will be close to actual results.
#29
RE: Have about $4000-$5000
ok to the original poster....are you looking for performance or appearnce mods to put your money in, then we can narrow this down
if performance, go w/ heads and cams if you dont want an s/c
if appearnace, go w/ ROUSH or Cervinis C500 bodykits...all under 3k
if performance, go w/ heads and cams if you dont want an s/c
if appearnace, go w/ ROUSH or Cervinis C500 bodykits...all under 3k
#30
RE: Have about $4000-$5000
before anything go with full exhaust like said headers shorties or LT's with high flow cats, X or H pipe then true duals with better flowing mufflers than take-offs. also i would do suspension work to help the car be more stable and to handle better, rear sway bar, strut tower brace, panhard bars, lower control arms, subframe connectors, shocks and springs. also i cant remeber if you have pulleys if not then get pulleys, if you have a manula go with a short throw shifter. I would also say go with a slotted brake upgrade, roush has a kit or you can go with brembo's or baer's. at least go with slotted rotors and ceramic pads. I would also recommend the visual upgrades unless your looking for a total sleeper. but you need suspension to manage the power and brakes to stop it.
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