Trmachuno

I thought about this a lot, So I wonder if taking the spare, jack, trunk cover, and trunk debris out of my car would hurt weight transfer a lot? I know it would take about 60lbs off the car, but it would be the rear of the car, and people say they have trouble hooking with 4.10's. So even if I'm getting steedarear upper and lower control arms, FL subframe connectors, andT-Lok do u think I will have hooking problems on 215/65/16 aftermarket all seasontires with the suspension mods?What if I do afront sway bar removal and a battery relocation kit to the trunk too?

Thanx ahead of time for the help,
Joe

jwilhelm

Hi Joe, you sound a lot like me when it comes to how you'd like to modify your car. I've got a 2007 V6 with manual 5-speed, and I've done a lot of similar things to my car to "lighten it up." Taking all that stuff out of the trunk is fine to reduce weight, but have some kind of alternate plan for a flat tire. Is your Triple A paid up? LOL. Remember too that removing all that carpet liner fromthe the trunk area will expose a lot of wires located in this area - could be a problem if something rubs or hits the wires, but if you're not going to keep anything in there, fine. You might consider a rear seat delete kit. I've done this and the kit looks great back there where 40 pounds of rear seat use to be. I've also installed a front sway bar delete kit that took another 50 pounds off the front. I've eliminated my mufflers totally running a straight through exhaust. Leave the cats on though because these actually make the sound of the exhaust quite acceptable, and there's literally little or no restriction in the exhaust system. Eliminating the mufflers took about another 50 pounds off the car's weight. Putting the battery in the trunk is an excellent idea, be sure to relocate it over the right rear wheel. This is where the weight is needed to aid in traction. I've had a T-Lok and 4.10 gears put in my 7.5 rearend and with my engine mods (CAI & tune) it's pretty tough to not spin the rear tires, especially since I too have retained the stock wheels and 215 stock tires. I'm keeping the plain Jane sleeper look though for my Mustang. The exhaust noise is about the only thing that gives anything away that says there's more there that stock. V6's are not V8 GTs, it's more of a pseudo fun car than a really serious street racer unless you put a supercharger on the motor or run a serious nitrous system. Enjoy your car and research your mods, take care, Jack.

Trmachuno

Thanx,I have tripleA.How much was the rear seat delete kit?where? and how hard to install?and does anybody havepics?Battery over the rightrear wheel even with the t-lok correct? Should I get the kit for the front sway bar or u think just taking it out will be fine? I don'tknow about the mufflers and emission or backpressure though. Do u recall if hooking wasworse with thespare and jack delete? or the Rear seat delete? how much better w/the front sway bar delete? peoplesay the front sway delete helps a lot.
Still lookin for the hooking problem answer though. anybody with my suspension mods, gears, andt-lok can explainabout theirhooking experience or problem/not problems?
TY

jwilhelm

A good Sunday afternoonto you Joe,
The rear seat delete kit costs $159.99, and you can purchase it from Modular Mustand Racing, http://www.modularmustangracing.com/, when you go on the website click ontheir Products section and scroll down till you come to the delete kit. The kit itself is not hard to install. There aretwo peg board pieces covered with nice carpeting to match your interiorthat replace your upper and lower rear seat pieces. Once you have positioned the two pieces, there are press in pins that hold the pieces in place quite nicely. The pins fit in holes that are already there in the floor. Take your time removing the stock seats. It's not tricky, but a few hand tools are needed to remove the brackets that hold the stock seats in place. Save all this hardware for future replacement if needed. Yes, put that ungodly heavy battery over the passenger side rear wheel. It's an age old drag racing practice. Yes, you can just remove the front sway bar but the front sway bar delete kit involves removing the radiator cross memberbrace that supports the radiator and air conditioning condensor. This is a somewhat involved job but by no means something you can't doyourself. The company BMR Fabrication makes this simple support. It costs $169 and change. Their website is http://www.bmrfabrication.com, when you get to the website, look under Products, then under Chassis, and scroll down till you come to this item. The hardest part about this job will be supporting the radiator/air conditioning condensor with a floor jack while you install the new support piece. Get a friend to help if necessary. Don't be afraid of it. This item will helpshift the front weight to the rear when you launch. Again an excellent and inexpensive way to shed unwanted weight. To answer several other questions you listed above, anytime you shed weight from your vehicle, especially the rear, it will be easier for you to spin the tires and not hook up. You can lower the tire pressure at the track a little to get some traction back, but not a good idea on the street, can be dangerous, stay at stock tire pressure on the street for safety. Of the items you mention regarding which is best for shifting weight and hooking up, the front sway bar delete kit is best because it allows the shift of front weight inertia to the rear of the vehicle upon acceleration. Also, look into a set of drag radials for track use if you do enough of this. Hope this helps, take care, Jack.

Trmachuno

I'm gonna experiment after I get the gears and 4.10's. Most likely I'll do the front sway delete and maybe the radiator either way. But I'll experiment with the hooking stuff and removing my spare and jack, If no hooking problems with this then I'll replace the spare and jack and buy the rear seat delete. Then with that I'll try the spare and jack removed too and see if I have traction issues. The rear upper and lower control arms withsubframes should do the trick. Myfront tires are still horrible stock ones but my rears are decentall seasontiresso I might befine. Gonna buy the batteryrelocation kit to the reartoo I think it's around a $100, not sure how easy it is to install though.
Thanx