Trmachuno

Oh yeah, another reason my dad said no turbo was so I don't kill resale value. Thanx for all the help again! I'd suggest an aluminum driveshaft if u still want to do more performance mods after that. It knocked about 35lbs off the drivetrain, made at least 10rwhp, increased milage a little, and made the car run a lot smoother. Good luck on ur plans!

Trmachuno

Damn, on the ram air system, It uses an 80mm maf with it.It will need a tune.So u no any cai's that needed tunes with that size mafon the sct already? Thanx ahead of time!

Wickerbill

Got a dyno sheet to prove that? I am in great disbeleif that adding a aluminum driveshaft, although great and needed mod, would add 10rwhp. Arent you the same guy that was arguing with rygen and buckman about 1/4 times and what rwhp you had with your mods even though you had no dyno to back that up? I wonder if I get a short throw shifter with my aluminum driveshaft if I could add 20rwhp to my car, and how many tenths would that take off my 1/4 time? And when does adding horses decrease fuel mileage?


EDIT: Personal flaming removed - 28HopUp

boss 244

The drive shaft isn't going to give you 10 "MORE" hp, it reduces the rotating mass and "Frees up" HP. Steel stang has pretty much the same setup as I do minus all the weight reduction. His car should run 14.4's with ease right now. It is possible a shifter would lower your ET by allowing you to shift quicker, saving time.
Keep at it steelstang!

Trmachuno

That's what I meant, freed 10rwhp(sorry didn't mean add). No dyno sheet, there's a calculation somewhere that for every Xlbs off the drivetrain frees Xhp, forgot what it was. And with the drivetrain having to move30lbs+ less weight, itnow doesit's job easier(thus increasing milage). Adding hp, didn't increase the milage! where did I say that?I wasn'targuing with rygen and buckman over mods hp, I was arguing overforced induction hp! There's a big difference between a bolt-on and a charger. It's true that I didn't know how the different chargers worked(turbo, centri, roots), I thought they were all like the turbo.So forgive me on that but that has nothing to do with this. Short Shifter's don'tfree hp, they just make iteasier formanuals to switch gears quicker. MAYBE a couple tenths off ur1/4with that, if ur lucky. BTW,I don't dyno tune anything till I'm done b/c it's a waste of money($200 a visit) and time(4hr+drive total). BTW, dyno's aren't worth the money. Thereonly a little bit better than a mail-order tune. That's been proven. In a B.A.M.A. tunes test, the difference between the mail-order tune and dyno tune was only 5rwhp, which is a negligable amount.Ok, still want the answer to the MAF ? if anyone knows. Thanx ahead.


EDIT: Personal flaming removed - 28HopUp

Trmachuno

Oh, forgot to thank u boss on the 1/4 mile guess. I've been wanting to know for a while. And is that guess with or w/o Drag Radials? Thanx

Sancho805

what about the diff between a crank pulley and alternator pulley?

Trmachuno

Good ?, I'm not gonna lie, I have no idea but I hear alternator pulley's r the ones that dnyo 7-10rwhp gains.

Trmachuno

Thanx again, boss 244, u have any weight reduction suggestions for me? Thanx!

Trmachuno

Oh yeah, forgot to add there I have 1st hand experience with the CAI, Muffler, TBS, and tuner install and gainson all my other mods too.My mechanic was the one who suggestedeither goingf/i or all out bolt-ons for performance. He told me about my gains and the installs of all my mods and said the best thing next to do performance wise non f/i was a ram air and dual exhaust set-up was the best bang for buck.Done, Back to thethread. Boss, what weight reduction tips/ideas do u have for me? I'll be looking into weight being take off for my N/A set-up. Anyone know where to get alternator underdrivepulley's and will I need a newbelt? Thanx for all ur help guys, wouldn't have got this far w/o yea!



EDIT: Needed some editing - 28HopUp