Mr. L

From what I've researched so far:

CAI/Tune: either from Brenspeed or BAMA - can't go wrong with either one.

Exhaust system: I was really leaning toward Magnaflows (Y Pipe) good sound at a very reasonable price -- but ODYSEY posted a real nice thread on FRPP's (X pipe), and those are by far probably the best sounding duals on our 6's.

Check out his post here: https://mustangforums.com/m_4443572/...tm.htm#4443572

Headers: I have yet to research or read anyone with headers if they actually give us any gains - but if you do want to get it, I believe JBA is the only well known brand that offers headers for our 6's.

Gears/Tlok:Some people get 4.10 - but most get 3.73, personal prefernce really - but if you really want to beef it up a little more, you can always upgrade your rearend from our stock 7.5 to 8.8.

You can get the full package (gears, t-lok, 8.8 rear) here: http://newtakeoff.com/index.asp?Page...mp;ProdID=8265

basketballord

Just going to add my 2 cents to this.

Add to the CAI/Tune list: VMP. Heard nothing but good things about their cold air intake/tune package. Not the flashiest, but good results for a little cheaper than the competition.

Exhaust: +a million on the FRPP duals. Hope to get them this summer or sooner. Best sound IMO.

As far as headers go, not really worth it IMO unless you're going FI.Can't remember figure,but probably6 HP at the mostif you aren'tFI. JBA makes a good set, but expensive. Mac also makes them I believe, and there are some sold on eBay that are only like $115. eBay is usually a little sketchy for non-brand-name parts, butMN Moosedid a little review on them here, sounded pretty favorable. https://mustangforums.com/m_4301938/tm.htm

locking differential: most people get the Ford Racing T-Lok, but there are the more expensive Eaton Detroit TrueTrack and Locker models too. Probably perform better, but almost twice the price of the FR T-Lok.

Slacker584

Mr. L and bballord, thanks very much for your info. I went to VMP's site and checked out their CAI/Tuner packages and am impressed. I figure I will get the 3.73s put on beforehand though so I can order a custom tune with the gear ratio currently in place...does that make sense?

Speaking of gears and since Mr. L. brought up upgrading to the 8.8" rear, I have a few questions regarding that. I have a basic understanding of why gear ratios are upgraded (the higher the ratio, the greater the acceleration at the sacrifice of top speed, correct? like 3.73s would not accelerate as fast as 4.11s but would top out higher?). What I don't understand is the need for changes in the size of the rear. Why is upgrading the size important?

Thanks a lot guys.

ricekiller06

ya i was thinking of going to do duals for the same reason but for the price and minimal power gains with an N/A car i just put a single flow on it and im happy with the sound
but you are right it sucks ford didnt put a dual on the stock V6's i would have just got that

Mr. L

Thanks Basketballord - I forgot about VMP.

To my understanding, at least from what I've seen and read from other members - normally, you upgrade your rear if you're going to go supercharged or turbo -- since power is transferred to our rear wheels, upgrading the rear would accomodate that power. With just a simple N/A upgrade, most members here normally just swap their gears and install tlok to our stock 7.5's if they have no plans of adding a supercharger or turbo.

Check out these videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAjSDM5Dgfk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeHotAfowM0

Although there's a lot of gaps - these are great vids to give you a good idea for the direction you want to go.

ODDYSEY

I dunno, it was well worth it in my opinion to get the FRPP dual exhaust kit. I couldn't be happier with it.

28HopUp

First, you can adjust your gears AFTER you have your CAI/tunes installed.

Second, the 8.8" take-off rear from a GT is stronger and already has a t-lok installed. Most come with 3.31:1 gears (like in our 7.5"), but some already have factory 3.55:1 gears installed, and you can get them with 3.73's and 4.10's installed for more money.

The argument for going to a take-off 8.8" versus building the 7.5" is really a cost vs benefit situation. I spent $250 for my new 4.10:1 Ford gears, t-lok, and bearing kit(a closeout deal from Lund Racing), and the labor was $350. So I had my 7.5" done for a total of $600. For an add'l $400, I could have gotten a better rear-end with the same gears, and installed it myself. Although I am staying NA, I do race at the track. With quick-lifts of the clutch at 4K rpm's on drag radials, I am concerned about the longevity of my 7.5" rear, and now wished I spent the extra money for an 8.8" (I expect the stock clutch to go before the rear-end actually). I have another rotor-to-rotor 7.5" with 3.73's/t-lok set aside in case I blow up my current set-up (it was a cheap local find from a member here who is going to a 8.8"). But my situation is most likely different than most folks here, and a 5-spd is harder on rear-ends than the auto tranny cars. You need to decide what suits your needs best.

Slacker584

Thanks for the info 28. I don't plan on any other mods besides those I listed. While the power change might be somewhat significant when all is said and done (a large part depending on what tunes I decide to go with), I think the 7.5" should be alright withme. I won't be at the track too much, and combining that with the auto tranny I figure I should be alright. Of course, you'll know for sure if I'm on here somewhere down the line bitching that my 7.5" is destroyed [&o]

Black Mamba GTT

Wait wait wait. The pony package already has the 8.8 and a t-lok, why would you get another one[>:]

28HopUp

Not true. All 4.0L V6 Mustangs (including the Pony Package) come with the 7.5" rear-end featuring 3.31:1 gearing and an open differential.