So what is a complete full bolt-on 4.0 mustang?
I can think of off my head and research it would include aftermarket:
-axelback
-headers
-hi-flow or cat-less mid-pipe
-cold air intake
-throttle body
-udp
-gears/lsd
-tuner
-ignition coil pack (ex:screamin demon)
-ignition wires (ex: livewires)
-aluminum driveshaft
-aluminum flywheel if applicable

Am I missing anything, not counting suspension? Just wanted to see if there is any performance bolt-ons for our cars that I haven't heard of yet.

 

That sounds about right to me. Add a tuner to the list.

 

Thanks, done.

 

Might as well do a straight line suspension bolt-on list too:

-rear control arms
-rear sway bar
-anti-squat brackets (I have no idea what they are or who sells them, saw on 1/4 list, if someone knows about them please tell me)
-subframe connectors (probably unnecessary)
-drag shocks
-drag springs
-drag struts


I only included suspension mods that directly help weight transfer and getting power to the ground, I didn't include stuff more directly for handling only and a little weight removal. Again, if I am missing anything please post.

 

Honestly plug wires and coil pack are not going to gain you any ponies. Niether are UDP's.

JUst get gears, headers, tuner, intake.

 

'X' or 'H' pipe
Short throw shifter
Performance clutch or torque convertor
Ploy-urethane bushings
brake upgrades - pads, rotors, calipers
Chassis stiffening &/or lighter weight components

 

Joe, what exactly are your goals? From the list you've compiled you missed one important bolt-on, F/I, because it--bolts on. Are you going for a super light straight line car? You could add the entire tubular front end: K-member, L-arms and save weight. I believe the BMR kit advertised 30lbs savings. I'm not sure how much you are going to save with the sway delete, but add it up. I wouldn't imagine you'd need the subframe connectors if you're staying N/A, it's not like you're going to be torquing the frame into knots, let's be real, don't need that extra weight. Nor would you need the high flow cats, based on your single exhaust position from past threads. I will say one thing. I took my rear seat out during the take-off leather install, and there was a ton of crap under there, so I drove to the local car wash to vac it out, with the seat out. It was very LOUD. Lots of weird noises I've never heard before. Try it out before you buy that seat delete kit, see if you can stand it. No way I could without some sort of sound deadening material under there. I think you should weigh your choices very carefully. Is there no chance you would ever make a spirited road carving trip in your favorite car?

Like this!

 

Thanks for the help.

My plans are to stay naturally aspirated and eventually hit the track to see what ET's I got from all the mods done. I'm not really into spirited corner cutting or turns, so I should be fine with suspension stuff removed like the front sway bar. Most likely will go next spring after I do a few more mods early next year. The rear seat delete kit I am fine with, I have driving around with it for 2 weeks and the sound difference I can't even tell because I always have my music on.

My plans are to make a fast(I know you can only go so fast n/a with these 6ers) naturally aspirated car. Whether through some weight reduction, more hp, or better suspension to put the power to the ground with. That's my goal.

 

instead of an axle back you should go duals with an X pipe

 

ut oh