Originally Posted by MrSandman

About a year ago I had steeda sport springs installed... and kept the stock shocks. Very noticeable improvement in handling (and about a 1 inch drop). My car has a negative camber, and wears the inside of the front tires a little more than before. I rotate my tires every 10,000 miles and haven't any significant wear problems.. although I do think I will have to change them out sooner because of this.

A few months ago I installed non-adjustable Tokico HP shocks in the rear only... I plan on doing the fronts when I get the time.. but I have had no ill effects so far with this set-up so far. In fact, this is the best handling car I have ever owned do to these changes.

I do not plan on adding CC plates to the mix.

Originally Posted by drfister

The more you drop it, the more stress other components will take, thus shortening their lifespan and making you replace them sooner. I dropped mine with the pro-kit and d-specs. While arguably not the greatest set-up, it more then does the trick for my daily driver. I spent around $1000 for the springs, shocks/struts, install and allignment. I bought camber bolts but did not land up needing them, and I did not get a panhard bar. While the panhard bar is generally a good idea, you will only notice your axle-shift with fatter tires; but since you are on 245's that shouldnt be too big an issue. I would reccomend shocks/ struts because ride you are on 35 profile tires. With just the spirngs it will probably be a bit stiff. Caster/camber plates and relocation brackets you can probably get away with if you go for a more mild drop but they tent to be almost necessary with a more agressive drop which I got the idea you were aiming for, OP.

Check out this thread (if you havent already) before you purchase any thing. You will probably learn a thing or two.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...tang-gt-2.html
Also, keep an eye out for two members 'legion' and 'sam strano'; they both are a fountain of information with regards to suspension modifications.

Originally Posted by MrSandman

It's definitely going to take a good amount of drop due to your low profile tires. A one inch drop did not completely eliminate the wheel gap on my car.. even with the stock tires (link to pictures of my car in my sig link).

Every little bit helps.. but im guessing that a one inch drop, for example.. would put your gap close to what it was with the stock tires. In order to eliminate the gap completely, you are going to either have to slam the car.. or get some tires with some more meat.

Originally Posted by MrSandman

<<<EDIT>>>

After looking at your pictures again.. the gap doesn't look that bad. It looks like your overall wheel/tire circumference is probably pretty close to stock due to the larger diameter rims.

Also.. the negative camber isn't bad (if it's reasonable).. and like others have said.. it can actually improve handling... You will just have to rotate your tires more often to get an even wear pattern.

Originally Posted by jf713jf

So I went outside today and measured my camber. I read online that you can use the following method to calculate camber with a square and a ruler

(difference / ( 2 * 3.14 * Height)) * 360 = degrees of camber

with a difference of .5 inches and a wheel height of 26 inches, I got about 1.1% of camber.

whether that means i will need cc plates, i don't know. hopefully I did the measuring right, my ground is pretty flat.

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

The math looks OK.

However, it's more reliable to measure from the outer flanges of the wheels instead of the tire.

-1.1° is within spec and is actually a pretty good place to be if you take corners hard from time to time. Autocrossing or open tracking might benefit from camber that's more negative, but if you only drive mildly or are setting up a dedicated drag strip car, -1.1° may be too much.


Norm