Just Dyno'd today, numbers for comparison
#1
Just Dyno'd today, numbers for comparison
I went for my first Dyno run today at GTR High Performance in So Cal today. Awesome guys at this shop!
Thought I'd share my results so people can see what they can expect from similar basic mods. Also looking to see if others have similar results with the same mods.
2005 V6 Auto
C&L CAI Intake with 91 Oct street tune
Aluminum Drive shaft
Single GT Takeoff muffler
Best HP 198, best Torque 210.
With the canned tune from the Predator the engine was running a little rich, 11.9.
We changed the fuel table in the tune lessening the fuel by about 8%. This yielded a better mix in the high 13's at WOT.
Also a little video for fun!
http://qik.com/video/4368062
Thought I'd share my results so people can see what they can expect from similar basic mods. Also looking to see if others have similar results with the same mods.
2005 V6 Auto
C&L CAI Intake with 91 Oct street tune
Aluminum Drive shaft
Single GT Takeoff muffler
Best HP 198, best Torque 210.
With the canned tune from the Predator the engine was running a little rich, 11.9.
We changed the fuel table in the tune lessening the fuel by about 8%. This yielded a better mix in the high 13's at WOT.
Also a little video for fun!
http://qik.com/video/4368062
#2
Nice thanks for posting, I have not gotten mine dynoed but would like to, I have similiar mods and think my numbers are very close to yours. But unfortunately the only Dyno around me charges $125 so not sure how soon I will doing that.
#4
2010V6, I think you'll be above 200, maybe 205. You headers probably give you a little bump over mine.
The guy that dyno'd mine was able to get about 5 more HP after correcting the fuel air mix. The canned tunes are rarely optimized for your individual car, so IMO I think a hour on the dyno is worth the money.
The guy that dyno'd mine was able to get about 5 more HP after correcting the fuel air mix. The canned tunes are rarely optimized for your individual car, so IMO I think a hour on the dyno is worth the money.
#5
Yea hopefully lol, I just contacted my local dyno and they said they could a $75 session of 3 pulls without A/F, if I want A/F its another $50. Does anyone think that its worth it get the A/F for $50 even though I wont be having them tune it?
#6
Well strictly to find out what your HP is then you don't need the A/F sensor.
BUT that's the only way to find out what your Air Fuel mix is doing. If you go for the A/F sensor the technician will be able to determine if your running lean, rich or right in the zone.
My guy told me that at WOT, you want your wideband A/F to be between 12.6 & 13.6 for optimum use of fuel to make power.
Another tip is that a 10% increase on the Fuel table on your tuner device typically yields a 1.0 point increase on the A/F reading.
For instance if your Dyno run with A/F sensor reads 12.2, then adjusting your fuel table up 8% "should" get your A/F close to 13.0. Right in the target zone for naturally aspirated engines.
Hope this gives you something to chew on.
BUT that's the only way to find out what your Air Fuel mix is doing. If you go for the A/F sensor the technician will be able to determine if your running lean, rich or right in the zone.
My guy told me that at WOT, you want your wideband A/F to be between 12.6 & 13.6 for optimum use of fuel to make power.
Another tip is that a 10% increase on the Fuel table on your tuner device typically yields a 1.0 point increase on the A/F reading.
For instance if your Dyno run with A/F sensor reads 12.2, then adjusting your fuel table up 8% "should" get your A/F close to 13.0. Right in the target zone for naturally aspirated engines.
Hope this gives you something to chew on.
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