o and correct me if i am wrong, but i was planning on getting 20" rims, but with my 1.5" by 1.75" lowering i am doing i dont think i can fit 20's on my car, i think i can get 18s 19s at the most, what do you guys think

 

I would get 18"s with that big of a drop.

 

dang, wil 18s still fill the wheel well

 

Looks at my car, I run 18"s. Big myth is that 20"s fill the wheel well better than other sizes, this is untrue as the larger the rim, the smaller the tire, therefore they entire diameter of your wheel stays about the same.

Want to fill the wheel well out? Get a larger tire, not a larger rim.

Click my link in my sig to see what 18"s look like.

 

ya those do fill it really night

 

I like this 'you might need' like some S197s suspensions are different than
other S197s suspensions and some need some stuff and others 'might not'.

 

Actually it makes sense, some people only drop .5" where some drop 2", the .5 won't need camber bolts, the 2" will.

Same goes for UCA's and LCA's. They might need them depending on how far the drop is.

 

Camber doesn't eat tire, the "toe" does. Toe can be adjusted on a stock Mustang.

I just lowered my car earlier this week. I did nothing other than install the FRPP K-Springs with no additional parts. My car still drives perfectly straight. I have probably 1 to 1.5 degrees of negative camber in the front. It's not really worth correcting and doesn't effect the driveability of the car. Most cars camber in hard turns by design. Negative camber isn't going to ruin your car! Negative camber makes the car more responsive at turn-in. Sometimes, when people get performance alignments they actually prefer some negative camber in the front. It's not the end of the world. If it's less than 2 degrees of negative camber, I wouldn't worry about it. However, camber bolts are cheap and quite easy to install if you want to add them later. Just get the wheel off and your trusty 18mm socket.

Toe absolutely needs to be adjusted. Any basic alignment will correct the toe and again, requires no special parts. Your stock Mustang has adjusters for toe. Toe will EAT your tires like a zombie eats brains. I ran a set of brand new tires down to the belts in less than 10,000 miles because I didn't get the car aligned (different car).

There's quite a bit of exaggeration in lowering threads here. I guess Mustang guys don't lower their cars as much as import guys so it sounds scary. I don't mean to disregard ODDYSEY's points, as they're all quite good. But it's not the end of the world if you just install springs. The car won't explode.

 

yeah im with replica on this one, i dropped my car 2" adn im not scraping on every thing, and i havent gotten stuck on a speed bump. i also am running steeda camber plates, which probably make the car sit a tad higher in the front. but yeah camber spec is .75 +- .75 so if u end up with 1.5 after lowering, you are still technically in spec.

 

This car has such a short overhang on the front, it's pretty hard to scrape on driveways and other inclines. I haven't come close to scraping and my car is pretty low in the front. I've got a finger and a half gap in the wheel well in front and 2 finger gap in the back.