someone help!!! lowering car!!!
#53
hey i know i am probibly beating a dead horse but are you guys also saying i need new shocks and struts? If i am paying 300 to have this done now, then i might as well have them put the new shocks and struts in to while they are at it, so i can avoide onother charge in the future when i have to put them in,
so in short do i need new shocks and struts with a 1.5 and 1.75 inch drop?
so in short do i need new shocks and struts with a 1.5 and 1.75 inch drop?
However, I did everything myself, so if you are going to pay someone, I would save some money and get it all done at once.
#54
Just think of it as keeping the geometry the same on your tie rods the
same as it was before it was 'lowered' with springs.
I say go dropped spindles and still retain the full OEM front suspension
geometry for about the same price as all the lowering springs, struts,
bump steer kits, X5 ball joints etc.
Dropped spindles is the only true 'right' way to lower the front end
of a S197 05-09 Mustang.
#55
If you do the bump steer kit, your toe wont be out enough to matter.
Just think of it as keeping the geometry the same on your tie rods the
same as it was before it was 'lowered' with springs.
I say go dropped spindles and still retain the full OEM front suspension
geometry for about the same price as all the lowering springs, struts,
bump steer kits, X5 ball joints etc.
Dropped spindles is the only true 'right' way to lower the front end
of a S197 05-09 Mustang.
Just think of it as keeping the geometry the same on your tie rods the
same as it was before it was 'lowered' with springs.
I say go dropped spindles and still retain the full OEM front suspension
geometry for about the same price as all the lowering springs, struts,
bump steer kits, X5 ball joints etc.
Dropped spindles is the only true 'right' way to lower the front end
of a S197 05-09 Mustang.
#56
You don't "need" new shocks and struts now, but it will save you money in the long run to have them put on now. Your stock shocks and struts will wear out faster when you lower your car, after 3 months mine were noticablely bouncy and that is when I changed mine out.
However, I did everything myself, so if you are going to pay someone, I would save some money and get it all done at once.
However, I did everything myself, so if you are going to pay someone, I would save some money and get it all done at once.
#58
I just got my car aligned last night. As a refresher, I installed the FRPP K-Springs last week and I've been driving on them for about a week to make sure they settle. I've done nothing else but put the springs on. The alignment was $109 for a 1 year term at NTB.
My toe was completely thrown on both sides of the car. The camber was -1.4 on the driver's side and -1.7 on the passenger's side. The toe was corrected during the alignment. The camber was not. Rides great! I can go a good 20 seconds on the freeway with my hands off the steering wheel and I'll still be in my lane. The car has some nice "bite" at turn-in now. Perhaps that little bit of negative camber helps with that. The -1.4 was in the "green" so I assume that was tolerable in and in spec. The -1.7 was slightly out of spec.
So fear not. Installing just springs will not make your car explode.
Most auto parts stores will rent a compressor to you for about $50. It's just a giant clamp that uses a large socket (usually a 19 or 20) to compress the spring as you ratchet it down. Really simple, but rather boring.
My toe was completely thrown on both sides of the car. The camber was -1.4 on the driver's side and -1.7 on the passenger's side. The toe was corrected during the alignment. The camber was not. Rides great! I can go a good 20 seconds on the freeway with my hands off the steering wheel and I'll still be in my lane. The car has some nice "bite" at turn-in now. Perhaps that little bit of negative camber helps with that. The -1.4 was in the "green" so I assume that was tolerable in and in spec. The -1.7 was slightly out of spec.
So fear not. Installing just springs will not make your car explode.
Most auto parts stores will rent a compressor to you for about $50. It's just a giant clamp that uses a large socket (usually a 19 or 20) to compress the spring as you ratchet it down. Really simple, but rather boring.
Last edited by replica; 01-20-2010 at 09:36 AM.
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