Need advice and info from 4.0 V6 owners
08-31-2011, 07:06 PM
#11
My suggestions,
go with a GT.
I'm constantly wishing I had more power under my hood.
It may be a tad bit more expensive, but definitely worth it.
Although I have an '06 v6 with 30k miles. I've only had it for a couple months though. No problems aside from my battery dying.
go with a GT.
I'm constantly wishing I had more power under my hood.
It may be a tad bit more expensive, but definitely worth it.
Although I have an '06 v6 with 30k miles. I've only had it for a couple months though. No problems aside from my battery dying.
09-01-2011, 07:53 PM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 256
While I don't fault those that wish they had bought the GT, I have a stock '06 4.0L Pony package that I wouldn't trade for anything. I do mostly highway, am getting 30+mpg with a 5 speed and it has plenty of power. If you drive less than the 130 mile round trip commute I have, perhaps you can afford the extra gas, but for me, it's 10mpg better than the 4.2L SUV I use for winter driving.
09-03-2011, 07:41 AM
#13
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 19
Bitter, how do you get 30+ MPG? I barely manage 23 MPG when staying at 70 MPH on the highway.
Vibral, I may get some flak for saying this, but if you want a car that has a feel of interior quality and comfort, then avoid the Mustang. The indisputable (IMHO) fact is that the Mustang is built to a price, and the "comfort" area is where Ford saved the most money. Road and wind noise is very noticable at highway speeds, the car will probably have one or two noises from interior parts that you will want to hunt down and fix, and the interior has a cheap feel when compared to a European import like Audi or even VW.
The only mechanical problems I have had with my 2007 V6 were a dry battery, and tail lights burning out. Both were easy enough to fix; and the trick with the tail lights is to replace all 6 when the first one burns out, because the lights are only $1.50 each but it takes 30 minutes to figure out how to remove the old ones.
My car does have a paint problem around the rear window; about half the paint in the groove thing that holds the rear window has chipped away, so I would recommend looking for that issue while you are car shopping. Also, some of our cars have a bit more vibration from the engine at a specific point in the 1200-2000 RPM range, and it seems it may be a different RPM in each car. Mine is at 1650 RPM. It's not a problem persay, as any engine probably has a point where there is harmonic vibration (ie, vibration can build up a bit), but you will want to look for that on each car you test drive and factor it into the buying decision.
Some cars have Anti-lock brakes or traction control, others dont. There is a great way to see if it has anti-lock brakes: try to lock them on a test drive.
Before buying the car, spend several minutes closely examining the front on a sunny day, as there will almost certainly be either small paint chips or signs of paint repair, and you can (and should) negotiate the price down because of this. Do similar with the interior. On one car that I test drove (a former rental car), someone had carved the word "Detroit" into the plastic on the side of the steering wheel, and it was honestly hard for anyone to notice that defacing because it was in a place that no one ever bothered to look, but it would be hard to ignore after discovering. That dealership spent $40 and replaced the plastic 3 days later, so it was an easy and cheap fix for the dealership, but it would probably cost closer to $100 if a consumer noticed the problem and asked the dealership to fix it after buying the car. Have the dealership fix any stains or scratches before a purchase, because the dealership can buy the parts (and labor) cheaper than you could.
Finally, open the trunk of any car you test and see how well the trunk carpet/liner fits, then push down on it (not too hard!) and see how much it gives. Lift the liner and notice the big metal bolt pointing straight up from the spare tire, and see if that bolt has impaled the cardboard piece that the carpet is glued to.
If I was buying another 2007 Mustang, these are the things that I would check.
Vibral, I may get some flak for saying this, but if you want a car that has a feel of interior quality and comfort, then avoid the Mustang. The indisputable (IMHO) fact is that the Mustang is built to a price, and the "comfort" area is where Ford saved the most money. Road and wind noise is very noticable at highway speeds, the car will probably have one or two noises from interior parts that you will want to hunt down and fix, and the interior has a cheap feel when compared to a European import like Audi or even VW.
The only mechanical problems I have had with my 2007 V6 were a dry battery, and tail lights burning out. Both were easy enough to fix; and the trick with the tail lights is to replace all 6 when the first one burns out, because the lights are only $1.50 each but it takes 30 minutes to figure out how to remove the old ones.
My car does have a paint problem around the rear window; about half the paint in the groove thing that holds the rear window has chipped away, so I would recommend looking for that issue while you are car shopping. Also, some of our cars have a bit more vibration from the engine at a specific point in the 1200-2000 RPM range, and it seems it may be a different RPM in each car. Mine is at 1650 RPM. It's not a problem persay, as any engine probably has a point where there is harmonic vibration (ie, vibration can build up a bit), but you will want to look for that on each car you test drive and factor it into the buying decision.
Some cars have Anti-lock brakes or traction control, others dont. There is a great way to see if it has anti-lock brakes: try to lock them on a test drive.
Before buying the car, spend several minutes closely examining the front on a sunny day, as there will almost certainly be either small paint chips or signs of paint repair, and you can (and should) negotiate the price down because of this. Do similar with the interior. On one car that I test drove (a former rental car), someone had carved the word "Detroit" into the plastic on the side of the steering wheel, and it was honestly hard for anyone to notice that defacing because it was in a place that no one ever bothered to look, but it would be hard to ignore after discovering. That dealership spent $40 and replaced the plastic 3 days later, so it was an easy and cheap fix for the dealership, but it would probably cost closer to $100 if a consumer noticed the problem and asked the dealership to fix it after buying the car. Have the dealership fix any stains or scratches before a purchase, because the dealership can buy the parts (and labor) cheaper than you could.
Finally, open the trunk of any car you test and see how well the trunk carpet/liner fits, then push down on it (not too hard!) and see how much it gives. Lift the liner and notice the big metal bolt pointing straight up from the spare tire, and see if that bolt has impaled the cardboard piece that the carpet is glued to.
If I was buying another 2007 Mustang, these are the things that I would check.
09-03-2011, 08:11 AM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 214
The only quality problem I am currently having is that I'm starting to accumulate rust on the hood. Although it's aluminum, there was apparently an issue with quality control in the material used and it is prone to bubbling under the paint. Check the edges, that's where mine show up the most.
Although there are days that I do wish I invested in the GT, I'm happy with my stang and love it. When I was looking for a car, I kept going back to the 3 series BMW in my head because it was the most practical solution overall. The Mustangs weren't on my radar for various reasons until I actually test drove one(A GT actually) and fell in love with it straight away. The mustang has a personality and a character to it.
Although it isn't as refined as a BMW, or Audi, the feeling of satisfaction when I'm driving and the charm of the mustang wins you over.
Here's my advice, Traction control is a must. ABS and TCS have saved me in a few situations, and the nice thing about TCS in the V6 mustang is all you have to do is tap a button and it's off (for real off, not half off). It's not a sophisticated system either, which for me is a plus. I can easily slide the car in the rain with TCS on. It's just that extra bit of safety when you need it...not to mention ABS.
1) Seatbelt
2) Ignition
3) TCS Off
4) Go
Although there are days that I do wish I invested in the GT, I'm happy with my stang and love it. When I was looking for a car, I kept going back to the 3 series BMW in my head because it was the most practical solution overall. The Mustangs weren't on my radar for various reasons until I actually test drove one(A GT actually) and fell in love with it straight away. The mustang has a personality and a character to it.
Although it isn't as refined as a BMW, or Audi, the feeling of satisfaction when I'm driving and the charm of the mustang wins you over.
Here's my advice, Traction control is a must. ABS and TCS have saved me in a few situations, and the nice thing about TCS in the V6 mustang is all you have to do is tap a button and it's off (for real off, not half off). It's not a sophisticated system either, which for me is a plus. I can easily slide the car in the rain with TCS on. It's just that extra bit of safety when you need it...not to mention ABS.
1) Seatbelt
2) Ignition
3) TCS Off
4) Go
09-03-2011, 08:52 AM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 256
I can't explain it. I've reset the calculator a few times and it eventually settles anywhere from 29.9 to 30.2. Maybe the calculator is wrong. The EPA rating for the '06 5 speed is 27 highway. For the '07 it's 25.
09-03-2011, 09:36 AM
#16
Moderator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Michigan again!
Posts: 8,579
What size tires do you have on the car? Have you changed them from stock? If so, you may be getting a false reading simply because the tire revolutions are wrong in your computer.
09-03-2011, 11:21 AM
#18
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
By-pass the 05-06 mustangs and go for a 07-09 model.
And by-pass the V6 and get the GT.
In hindesight it will all make sense to you...
ABS and TCS in a V6 is not needed and just a waste of $$.
TCS is a joke. Just a newfangled cylinder dropper.
I hate ABS. I finally found a new 07 V6 that didnt have ABS.
I can modulate my own brake pedal pressure, thank you.
The trick to the taillight bulbs is to buy the good Sylvania
LongLife bulbs and replace them ALL if you ever remove
the taillight housing...
Pull the pass side door sill and pull the pass side carpet
back to inspect the pad and sheetmetal for ANY signs
of water intrusion or rust.
40K on the OD and I drive it like I stole it.
Regular Oil Changes and routine maintence
is all that mine has required (and a new battery).
And by-pass the V6 and get the GT.
In hindesight it will all make sense to you...
ABS and TCS in a V6 is not needed and just a waste of $$.
TCS is a joke. Just a newfangled cylinder dropper.
I hate ABS. I finally found a new 07 V6 that didnt have ABS.
I can modulate my own brake pedal pressure, thank you.
The trick to the taillight bulbs is to buy the good Sylvania
LongLife bulbs and replace them ALL if you ever remove
the taillight housing...
Pull the pass side door sill and pull the pass side carpet
back to inspect the pad and sheetmetal for ANY signs
of water intrusion or rust.
40K on the OD and I drive it like I stole it.
Regular Oil Changes and routine maintence
is all that mine has required (and a new battery).
Last edited by 157dB; 09-03-2011 at 11:27 AM.
09-03-2011, 03:32 PM
#19
Moderator
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Michigan again!
Posts: 8,579
09-03-2011, 04:01 PM
#20
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: SC
Posts: 45
My daughter drives our 2008 convertible. It's a solid car. No mechanical problems. Agree with minor electrical gremlins. Could not self program a PATs key and ended up taking it to the dealer but that might be because one of the keys I had was an aftermarket key made at ACE. The navigation also gives a fault message every time I start it but seems to work ok.