Installing LCA's NOW, Need Help
06-25-2013, 09:16 AM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Washington
Posts: 389
Question:
1. Do you have adjustable BMR LCA or UCA?
2. How much did you lower it?
3. Straight shaft or OEM two piece?
4. Have you tested (any whine at highway speed, ******* left/right?).
If your LCA is adjustable and you lowered the car the Pinion angle may be different and you might get a whine at speed. Two things cause this: Bad install of gear and pinion, if this is factory and was ok before then the pinion angle of the shaft and differential may be off.
Either way the UCA and LCA are the only thing holding your driveshaft straight and you just moved em around. I gutted my whole suspension then got the front and rear laser aligned. I don't want to wait till I'm doing 120 to find out it isn't straight.
Moosetang is the smart guy here, need to know if the LCB needs to be welded or not. Some say no others yes. If it comes undone on a hard launch, a $150 part can cost you a lot of damage.
1. Do you have adjustable BMR LCA or UCA?
2. How much did you lower it?
3. Straight shaft or OEM two piece?
4. Have you tested (any whine at highway speed, ******* left/right?).
If your LCA is adjustable and you lowered the car the Pinion angle may be different and you might get a whine at speed. Two things cause this: Bad install of gear and pinion, if this is factory and was ok before then the pinion angle of the shaft and differential may be off.
Either way the UCA and LCA are the only thing holding your driveshaft straight and you just moved em around. I gutted my whole suspension then got the front and rear laser aligned. I don't want to wait till I'm doing 120 to find out it isn't straight.
Moosetang is the smart guy here, need to know if the LCB needs to be welded or not. Some say no others yes. If it comes undone on a hard launch, a $150 part can cost you a lot of damage.
06-25-2013, 10:09 PM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Washington
Posts: 389
I have seen a few posts about people who suffer catastrophic drivetrain failures
and a reoccurring theme is F/I in the front and drag slicks to the rear and nod-a in the middle.
Bleeds - Moosestang said pinion angle is not a problem for an OEM driveshaft which is a two piece articulated. Not so good for me, I have a Shaftmaster one piece aluminum, which on a lowered car with all the adjustable, BMR LCA/UCA I have to fiddle with it to clear a little whine.
BMR also makes safety loops that can be used as cross driveshaft tunnel braces, leave the loop part off and the plate across the the tunnel braces it.
My plan is to bomb proof the driveline to head-off a major failure that will be expensive to fix:
Yukon posi., Alloy differential shafts, 3.73 o.e.m. factory, One piece (in), Spec clutch(stage 1) and aluminum flywheel, steel braided clutch line (in) and Barton short throw shifter with bottom bracket. The LCB and Swarr-bar will also help plant the wheels and since it's a D/D no slicks. Nitto EVO 285's rear and I think I'll do a weld just to be safe.
If you get a one piece it feels different. Other drivers say it feels like it picks the car up on take-off and I agree, and the stock clutch line is not very good just like the brake-lines most get replaced. FR Boss Low Expansion Lines all four corners $89 bucks
What have I left out Moosestang?
and a reoccurring theme is F/I in the front and drag slicks to the rear and nod-a in the middle.
Bleeds - Moosestang said pinion angle is not a problem for an OEM driveshaft which is a two piece articulated. Not so good for me, I have a Shaftmaster one piece aluminum, which on a lowered car with all the adjustable, BMR LCA/UCA I have to fiddle with it to clear a little whine.
BMR also makes safety loops that can be used as cross driveshaft tunnel braces, leave the loop part off and the plate across the the tunnel braces it.
My plan is to bomb proof the driveline to head-off a major failure that will be expensive to fix:
Yukon posi., Alloy differential shafts, 3.73 o.e.m. factory, One piece (in), Spec clutch(stage 1) and aluminum flywheel, steel braided clutch line (in) and Barton short throw shifter with bottom bracket. The LCB and Swarr-bar will also help plant the wheels and since it's a D/D no slicks. Nitto EVO 285's rear and I think I'll do a weld just to be safe.
If you get a one piece it feels different. Other drivers say it feels like it picks the car up on take-off and I agree, and the stock clutch line is not very good just like the brake-lines most get replaced. FR Boss Low Expansion Lines all four corners $89 bucks
What have I left out Moosestang?
06-25-2013, 10:20 PM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Washington
Posts: 389
Diabolical, this is odd, I'm in the greater New Orleans area right now and I bring-up this site and there's a story on the 2017 Mach 1 comeback and there at the gas station pulls-up a 2003-4 Mach 1 showroom condition. Shaker, custom rims, weave seats has to be rare.
I will get my LCB tacked because I'll do hard launches with 285 streets.
Bleeds - get the LCB cause they look good and you will control that spin, so you won't get a Breaking Traction Citation
I will get my LCB tacked because I'll do hard launches with 285 streets.
Bleeds - get the LCB cause they look good and you will control that spin, so you won't get a Breaking Traction Citation
Last edited by VistaBlueFrank68; 06-25-2013 at 10:23 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tj@steeda
Steeda Autosports
0
09-10-2015 08:39 PM