do high quality pads + rotors = cobra equiv breaking?
#21
I am with Bramas.. I don't understand wtf that guy just said.
As for Mustang PA -- AM has my respect too, but not enough to make me shell out $630 for something that i can get for $385... Try letting other places earn your respect. AM doesn't carry everything you need. You'll eventually need to venture outside the box...
As for Mustang PA -- AM has my respect too, but not enough to make me shell out $630 for something that i can get for $385... Try letting other places earn your respect. AM doesn't carry everything you need. You'll eventually need to venture outside the box...
#22
my only problem with that is used vs new. sure you can get something used for a decent price, but IMO i've had way better luck with new parts.
i'd consider gettin the cobra kit used for under 400$, but finding a seller is the hard part - with new you dont have to wait and you know what your getting and the 200 extra reflects that.
i'd consider gettin the cobra kit used for under 400$, but finding a seller is the hard part - with new you dont have to wait and you know what your getting and the 200 extra reflects that.
#23
I think, when the time comes, I'll get some new rotors and Hawk HPS pads. My buddy got rotors from here and had the for a month on his 04 Mach 1..so far so good:
link is to the GT rotors not Mach:
http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...7030&dv=041910
lifetime warrenty against defects and warping, I may go that rout when I need to replace them.
#24
my only problem with that is used vs new. sure you can get something used for a decent price, but IMO i've had way better luck with new parts.
i'd consider gettin the cobra kit used for under 400$, but finding a seller is the hard part - with new you dont have to wait and you know what your getting and the 200 extra reflects that.
i'd consider gettin the cobra kit used for under 400$, but finding a seller is the hard part - with new you dont have to wait and you know what your getting and the 200 extra reflects that.
- 2 blank 13" rotors from lethal performance i believe? - $115
- SS lines from AM IF YOU WANT THEM - $65 after discount
So thats $389 for everything new... Now tell me which method sounds better
#25
if the funds are there i would go with what hpwrestler suggested. but if they are not how come everybody is so against powerslot rotors and hawk pads?? i'm not comparing this to cobra brakes, but they are a nice upgrade over stock pads and rotors. i have em on my car and they are night and day compared to stock. thats just my .02 cents. cobra brakes are cool, but why do you need them for daily driving??
#26
if the funds are there i would go with what hpwrestler suggested. but if they are not how come everybody is so against powerslot rotors and hawk pads?? i'm not comparing this to cobra brakes, but they are a nice upgrade over stock pads and rotors. i have em on my car and they are night and day compared to stock. thats just my .02 cents. cobra brakes are cool, but why do you need them for daily driving??
#27
F##K I'm tired.
I'm to tied and lazy to read even the OP first post and all the consecutive...
Based on the thread title:
No & Yes but more no than yes. Que?
Can a stock 99+caliper work as well as a Cobra style? sure it can, so long as the caveat is talking about stock cobra's compared to modified GT's. These upgrades would be, Nice Bi pads, stainless lines, and good slotted rotors. We're talking about NORMAL driving conditions. Add any sort of track conditions were your brakes are employed, no way.
**This is very important; Wash your wheels, brake dust is very corrosive. Even if you have high quality chrome wheels, brake dust can eat right through them. If you have a Tai/China wheel like AFS or almost ANY replica, you have a clear coat and that clear coat just loves turning yellow and peeling off at the slightest touch of brake dust. Keep your wheels clean and waxed or treated.
Based on the thread title:
No & Yes but more no than yes. Que?
- The Cobras extra inch in the size of the rotors helps dissipate heat for more consistency. Dual piston is a great upgrade from the 94-98 single piston calipers. (99+ do have a dual piston system)
- Sometimes people are mislead by thinking there is dramatically more contact surface with a larger brake system, this is false. The contact surface is almost always only marginally more.
- Ceramic brakes if they are deemed as High performance is for the most part, full of Sh#t. Ceramic is for less dust and bi is for better stopping but wear quickly and sh#t corrosive dust everywhere. (See ** annotation at end)
- Drilled rotors are the "Second type of cool" only and does nothing for performance. Whens the last time you seen an indy car or nascar with holes in their rotors?
- Slotted rotors are functional and help shave and maintain consistent pad surface for better pad to rotor surface contact... It also does some heat dissipation but this is a minor & secondary effect.
- Stainless lines help tremendously at the top of the pedal to give solid braking and less top sponge effect.
Can a stock 99+caliper work as well as a Cobra style? sure it can, so long as the caveat is talking about stock cobra's compared to modified GT's. These upgrades would be, Nice Bi pads, stainless lines, and good slotted rotors. We're talking about NORMAL driving conditions. Add any sort of track conditions were your brakes are employed, no way.
**This is very important; Wash your wheels, brake dust is very corrosive. Even if you have high quality chrome wheels, brake dust can eat right through them. If you have a Tai/China wheel like AFS or almost ANY replica, you have a clear coat and that clear coat just loves turning yellow and peeling off at the slightest touch of brake dust. Keep your wheels clean and waxed or treated.
Last edited by Sxynerd; 04-29-2010 at 09:46 AM.
#29
I'm to tied and lazy to read even the OP first post and all the consecutive...
Based on the thread title:
No & Yes but more no than yes. Que?
Can a stock 99+caliper work as well as a Cobra style? sure it can, so long as the caveat is talking about stock cobra's compared to modified GT's. These upgrades would be, Nice Bi pads, stainless lines, and good slotted rotors. We're talking about NORMAL driving conditions. Add any sort of track conditions were your brakes are employed, no way.
**This is very important; Wash your wheels, brake dust is very corrosive. Even if you have high quality chrome wheels, brake dust can eat right through them. If you have a Tai/China wheel like AFS or almost ANY replica, you have a clear coat and that clear coat just loves turning yellow and peeling off at the slightest touch of brake dust. Keep your wheels clean and waxed or treated.
Based on the thread title:
No & Yes but more no than yes. Que?
- The Cobras extra inch in the size of the rotors helps dissipate heat for more consistency. Dual piston is a great upgrade from the 94-98 single piston calipers. (99+ do have a dual piston system)
- Sometimes people are mislead by thinking there is dramatically more contact surface with a larger brake system, this is false. The contact surface is almost always only marginally more.
- Ceramic brakes if they are deemed as High performance is for the most part, full of Sh#t. Ceramic is for less dust and bi is for better stopping but wear quickly and sh#t corrosive dust everywhere. (See ** annotation at end)
- Drilled rotors are the "Second type of cool" only and does nothing for performance. Whens the last time you seen an indy car or nascar with holes in their rotors?
- Slotted rotors are functional and help shave and maintain consistent pad surface for better pad to rotor surface contact... It also does some heat dissipation but this is a minor & secondary effect.
- Stainless lines help tremendously at the top of the pedal to give solid braking and less top sponge effect.
Can a stock 99+caliper work as well as a Cobra style? sure it can, so long as the caveat is talking about stock cobra's compared to modified GT's. These upgrades would be, Nice Bi pads, stainless lines, and good slotted rotors. We're talking about NORMAL driving conditions. Add any sort of track conditions were your brakes are employed, no way.
**This is very important; Wash your wheels, brake dust is very corrosive. Even if you have high quality chrome wheels, brake dust can eat right through them. If you have a Tai/China wheel like AFS or almost ANY replica, you have a clear coat and that clear coat just loves turning yellow and peeling off at the slightest touch of brake dust. Keep your wheels clean and waxed or treated.
That explains the clearcoat peeling then....I never knew that. Granted, I cleaned them once a week but by the end of the week they were covered in brake dust...FML.
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