Blew a spark plug and COP clean out of the head
#41
The recommended torque is 11 lb-ft, this is from the 2000 Shop Manual:
Plug manufacturers usually say 13 to 15 lb-ft, or 1/16th turn for 14 mm tapered seat plugs; 1/4 turn got you up to 45+ lb-ft
If you have not already done so you need to remove and re-torque the other seven...
Plug manufacturers usually say 13 to 15 lb-ft, or 1/16th turn for 14 mm tapered seat plugs; 1/4 turn got you up to 45+ lb-ft
If you have not already done so you need to remove and re-torque the other seven...
For the record, the 1/4 turn is intended as a guide for older flat seat plugs with the crush washers. The 1/4 turn was to fully crush and seat the washer.
Newer tapered seat plugs that don't use a crush washer need far less TQ to be secured.
#43
Just got the car back and it feels great! I didn't realize how much power I was missing, especially down low. Whether that's from the the new FRPS, COPs, spark plugs, etc I can't tell, but it was worth the wait.
Now time for the brake and engine accessory upgrades...
Now time for the brake and engine accessory upgrades...
#45
Sorry, I missed the picture (didn't show up when I looked on my phone). You can see the same feature on the middle of the ceramic portion too. I'm assuming melted/sprayed metal wouldn't stick very well to that type of surface.
It's going to be 1000x easier to tell once I get to the shop and either those marks are going to be gone (if it's water), or there is going to be metal still there.
It's going to be 1000x easier to tell once I get to the shop and either those marks are going to be gone (if it's water), or there is going to be metal still there.
#46
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Hopefully all goes well.
I did a helicoil in my 99 and just spit out another plug shortly after.
I did learn a hell of a lot doing the cylinder head replacement though
I did a helicoil in my 99 and just spit out another plug shortly after.
I did learn a hell of a lot doing the cylinder head replacement though
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